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Page AR-15 » AR Discussions
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 4/19/2007 3:09:34 PM EDT
well... i guess not thinking any more.  I'm pretty sure i'm going to get one... i just have some questions.

First off.. im on a college budget so money matters... i plan on having the gun for the rest of my life so i'll spend money on something quality... but i don't want to make any dumb purchases.

I basically want the rifle to be accurate, and able to shoot accurately to 600-700 yards.  I plan on using it primarily for target shooting but also for varmint hunting.  I dont mind too much about extra weight... im used to carrying heavy guns around, but i'd obviously like to cut down as much weight as possible without sacrificing performance.  I'd also like to do this as inexpensively as possible.  I realize that it is impossible to demand good accuracy, weight, and price.  Thats where you guys come in.

My first question is about the twist rate. I was pretty set on 1x7 so i could use longer/heavier rounds for accuracy down range untill i learned about the .22LR conversion.   Have any of you used the .22LR conversion on a 1x7 barrel?  accurate?  

Second: free float tubes.  How in the hell can some of them cost 300$... no moving parts no anything.. it doesnt make sense.... can someone recommend some quality one piece free float tubes that wont break the bank

Third: barrel.  This is probably my most apprehensive purchase when it comes to the AR.  In my opinion the barrel pretty much makes or breaks the gun.  This is probably where im willing to spend some money... any recommendations?

fourth:  Trigger.  Im used to shooting a 2 stage fairly nice trigger.  How is the trigger on "stock" AR lowers (i guess it depends on the lower)  but still... am i going to hate the trigger or should i just use it for awhile before planning any upgrades

Last... This is my first build.. am i being a little over-zealous?  should i just get an ar shoot it for awhile and upgrade it (the only problem i see with that is it is basically just extra $)  

I also hate when there is any play in rifles.. i like the parts to fit tightly  is that possible with a completely custom rifle.. or should i get an assembled upper and lower and put em together

Link Posted: 4/19/2007 3:23:47 PM EDT
[#1]
If you want a complete gun, a bushmaster varminter might be one to check out.  It seems to have most of what you are looking for.  

Yankee hill machine makes good free float tubes that are inexpensive, I have one and like it.  

If you are going all out for the custom gun, then I don't know much about a precision AR and what it would take to make you happy.  Most ARs are pretty darn good out of the box for accuracy.  
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 4:17:26 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
well... i guess not thinking any more.  I'm pretty sure i'm going to get one... i just have some questions.

First off.. im on a college budget so money matters... i plan on having the gun for the rest of my life so i'll spend money on something quality... but i don't want to make any dumb purchases.

Piece one together, whether you buy a complete upper half and or complete separate lower. Buy them stripped or whatever you want to pay out at any peticular time.

I basically want the rifle to be accurate, and able to shoot accurately to 600-700 yards.  I plan on using it primarily for target shooting but also for varmint hunting.  I dont mind too much about extra weight... im used to carrying heavy guns around, but i'd obviously like to cut down as much weight as possible without sacrificing performance.  I'd also like to do this as inexpensively as possible.  I realize that it is impossible to demand good accuracy, weight, and price.  Thats where you guys come in.

My first question is about the twist rate. I was pretty set on 1x7 so i could use longer/heavier rounds for accuracy down range untill i learned about the .22LR conversion.   Have any of you used the .22LR conversion on a 1x7 barrel?  accurate?  

Second: free float tubes.  How in the hell can some of them cost 300$... no moving parts no anything.. it doesnt make sense.... can someone recommend some quality one piece free float tubes that wont break the bank

www.jprifles.com/1.4.4.php Its nice yet expandable/upgradeable !

Third: barrel.  This is probably my most apprehensive purchase when it comes to the AR.  In my opinion the barrel pretty much makes or breaks the gun.  This is probably where im willing to spend some money... any recommendations?

Before you get a 24" bbl you had better check one out first. They are front hvy for sure

fourth:  Trigger.  Im used to shooting a 2 stage fairly nice trigger.  How is the trigger on "stock" AR lowers (i guess it depends on the lower)  but still... am i going to hate the trigger or should i just use it for awhile before planning any upgrades

www.jprifles.com/1.4.8.1.php 139.00 trigger

Last... This is my first build.. am i being a little over-zealous?  should i just get an ar shoot it for awhile and upgrade it (the only problem i see with that is it is basically just extra $)  

Buy or build to your wants and needs. You will save $$$. Try and find someone near you that has an ar

I also hate when there is any play in rifles.. i like the parts to fit tightly  is that possible with a completely custom rifle.. or should i get an assembled upper and lower and put em
together

It wont matter. If you use the gun on a regular basis it will (just like  anything else) it will loosen up. Buy one of the rubber wedges. It wont take it all out but will tighten it up to and extent.I just completed a build. I bought a used, complete upper for starters. Then slowly pieced together a lower. I completely assembled the lower meself. I purchased all the lower parts new and separate. The upper was an A3 100% complete Colt. I chose  a RRA lower rcvr and lower parts kit (trigger) etc. I went with the ACE Skeleton But Stock. The lower mates excellantly with the used upper and absolutely no play between them. Great fit! As to your question about any factory triggers, I dont care whos name is on it... imagine this.. hvy trigger pull that feels like sand and gravel. Go JP. If you can afford it get their drop in trigger but I do prefer single stage.

Link Posted: 4/19/2007 4:43:17 PM EDT
[#3]
Tag to tell it how it is later.
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 6:34:11 PM EDT
[#4]
A 20" or 24" flat-top rifle will fit your long-range needs.

There are some 1-8 twist options from RRA (which I think I have listed in ascending weight):

Standard A2/A4 select the 1-8 barrel in the drop-down list.  

Predator Pursuit

Varmint A4

Link Posted: 4/19/2007 7:18:12 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
well... i guess not thinking any more.  

I'd say so too.  Ever heard of BRD, not thinking is the first symptom.  

First off.. im on a college budget so money matters... i plan on having the gun for the rest of my life so i'll spend money on something quality... but i don't want to make any dumb purchases.  

Sounds like it's too late, if you do this, money won't matter, you won't have any!

I basically want the rifle to be accurate, and able to shoot accurately to 600-700 yards.  I plan on using it primarily for target shooting but also for varmint hunting.  ........ I'd also like to do this as inexpensively as possible.  I realize that it is impossible to demand good accuracy, weight, and price.  Thats where you guys come in.

Oh, you do want the impossible!  


Last... This is my first build.. am i being a little over-zealous?  should i just get an ar shoot it for awhile and upgrade it (the only problem i see with that is it is basically just extra $)  

Over zealous?  That'll come later when you realize how large your collection has become.  Then you'll realize where extra $$ went.

I also hate when there is any play in rifles.. i like the parts to fit tightly  is that possible with a completely custom rifle.. or should i get an assembled upper and lower and put em together


Accuwedge or #7 O-ring on the front pivot will cure that



Link Posted: 4/19/2007 8:47:03 PM EDT
[#6]
"I'm too poor to buy cheap" is something you might want to consider.  Buy "good" once or buy "cheap" over and over again.
Link Posted: 4/19/2007 9:52:39 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
"I'm too poor to buy cheap" is something you might want to consider.  Buy "good" once or buy "cheap" over and over again.javascript:document.frm.submit();


+1

That's why you should get a Vulcan!
BTW, DON'T buy a Vulcan.
Link Posted: 4/20/2007 12:02:10 AM EDT
[#8]
1st off, welcome to the site

best advice i can give, read around (esp the tacked threads) and use the 'search' feature

recommendations:

get a complete RRA varmiter upper and throw it on a quality complete lower in the EE/ind board (both can be had by dealers there for very competative prices)

or

get a Varmiter kit from del-ton or JTD and a stripped lower and assemble it; M1S is another source of great varmiter kits, but i cant vouch for thier service...

Tubes: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=172238
good news is, w/ the uppers/kits i recommended, they already come w/ a FF tube (no rails though); the best railed FF tubes for the price: YHM and MI

bbl: RRA's SS match grade Wilson bbls are a tad better imo than the Shaw bbls in the AR kits; the wilsons are some of the best for the price
the next bbll i would look at for the price and accuracy potential is WOA, but then again, the uppers/kits i recommended up top already have the accurate bbl

trigger: stock single stage AR triggers are NOT target triggers and tend to be pretty heavy (~8lb) w/ creep; you can get the $28 trigger job from mr bill in the EE or opt for a RRA 2 stage for ~$100 (best 2 stage for the price)

an accuwedege will kill the wobble, but not necessary

invest in good, quality optics and ammo and bbl

Page AR-15 » AR Discussions
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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