Well I have searched and read the many posts on this site about AR manufacturers and I can see it is almost like religion....

So let me ask the question anyway...hase
Ok, so I know that opinions vary, I am looking at RRA and Bushmaster...

Some of the questions I have are along the lines of

1. Is a fully chrome-moly barrel better then a chrome lined?

2. What are some of the better sighting options that I should look for

3. I see a LOT of options on models for Hand Rails...whats the big difference with the various types of hand rails

4. Twists 1:9 or 1:7??

5. What is Chromed Light Weight??? ( I assume a lighter barrel)




Any help is appreciated

Thanks

Rick

1st off, welcome to the site!

second, read around, esp the tacked threads and use your "search" feature--lots of these questions have been asked/answed and have many topics w/ many opinions....

1: imo, "No"--not for most uses; C-L is longer lasting (rnd wise), more corrosion resistant, easier to clean, and more durable for hard use, but the C-M is usually cheaper and will be a tad more accurate

2: depends on what you are looking to do w/ your AR and your budget...choose the optics that fit your needs--i'd recommend EoTech or Aimpoint for CQB and/or a nice one piece (larue, armalite, RRA) mount w/ a quality optic (SWFA Super sniper, Leupold, nikon, etc)

3: again, it depends on your budet and uses; i'd recommend YHM, MI, DD, KAC, Troy, etc overall....
FF/HG FAQ

4: i prefer 1-7 b/c i tend to shoot both heavier and avg 5.56 loads; h/w, 1-9 is great for most commecial loads
read this: www.ammo-oracle.com

5: are you refering to the bbl style? if so, they probably mean a C-L lightweight profile bbl...
note: CM is the bbl matieral; h/w, a C-L is used to line C-M bbls

like i said, use your search feature and read around, good luck!

Thanks I have been looking around and will continue to, theres just a lot to get through. I have narrowed the search down to the RRA or a Bushy...

Quoted: Well I have searched and read the many posts on this site about AR manufacturers and I can see it is almost like religion.... So let me ask the question anyway... I looking to purchase my first AR, I want a smaller barrel length model (16) and have about $1500 to spend, now I would prefer not to spend it all but I want something of quality that will last  and is durable, though I will not see combat/tactical operations, I want something that if it was to see combat/tactical operations it would last a good amount of time. Ok, so I know that opinions vary, I am looking at RRA and Bushmaster... Some of the questions I have are along the lines of 1. Is a fully chrome-moly barrel better then a chrome lined? 2. What are some of the better sighting options that I should look for 3. I see a LOT of options on models for Hand Rails...whats the big difference with the various types of hand rails 4. Twists 1:9 or 1:7?? 5. What is Chromed Light Weight??? ( I assume a lighter barrel) Any help is appreciated Thanks Rick

Thank me later

You might also take a look at Armalite rifles as well.  I certainly don't have any regrets for purchasing an Armalite instead of a Bushmaster!

Well I looked at Armalite....and bought one today

M-15A4 Carbine

I like it, I like....course I have to wait a day to go shoot it...now have to find optics!!

Thanks Folks!

Rick_B,
I purchased my M-15 carbine almost two months ago and finally got it to the range last weekend and it shot amazingly well.  I'm now thinking about getting a 20" barrel A2 M-15 from Armalite now!

Good starter setup

Reliable upper is the key to a great AR, there are a varity of companies with multitudes of options but here are a few that are ranked tops because they make good products and stand behind them 100%

CMMG
Stag
Del-Ton
LMT

You'll want a 16" or 14.5" with perm. we all start out with longer and wind up wishing we had shorter. So save yourself a step and start short.

You will also want a Flat-Top (a3/a4) receiver so you can have unlimited optic and add-on options in the future

For Your Barrel , you'll want a chrome lined in either 5.56 NATO or the new WYLDE chambering . The chrome lined clean easier than unlined and stainless with minimal decrease in accuracy vs stainless. The reason to choose on of the above chamberings and not a pure .223 is so you'll be able to fire all types of .5.56 and .223 ammo from cheap to expensive.

For your twist rate "The Optimum" twist rate is a 1:8 but a 1:7 and 1:9 will work on a variety of ammo aswell. your optimum defense rounds are .75gr bthps those are about as big as you can throw without the bullets being to long for the magazines.

The Lower Receiver isn't as important as the upper "I'm not saying buy the cheapest POS you can find" just make sure to get a FORGED or billet but never a cast. The lowers serve small purpose they just house the trigger and the action/buffer spring so whatever your local dealer has would be fine sfor example dpms,stag,rra etc.etc.

For The lower parts, NO standard trigger is worth a shit *pardon my english* they all have 8-10lb triggers with lots of creep... 8lbs of pull on a trigger is ALOT it will screw your accuracy alot as you'll have no idea on when it'll let-off. Rock River Arms (RRA) makes a nice 2 stage trigger "once you use a 2 stag you'll hate singles" they are vastly improved over standard triggers with less creep and far lighter pull due to a better sear placement.

You might also want to look into a free floated handguard. They will improve your accuracy ALOT. The concept of the free float gaurd is no cant or pressure is applied to the barrel whether it be from a sling, your hold/hand , bipod etc.etc. (in other words if your forcing the barrel crooked from force obviously you'll shoot crooked)

Also, forgot to mention. Look into getting Mid-Length gas system on your setup rather than carbine. The Mid gas has less recoil, and is less violent on your action and moving parts