Yet another post to pester you guys with unlimited questions ^_^... Decided thanks to the help from all your replies on a previous topic I ran, to go with Redding Dies but now I'm wondering if I should start with the standard seater/full length sizer set or if I'll need the seater/full length "small base" set.

Barrel/chamber is CMMG 4150 steel 5.56/.223 1:7 twist and Extended/polished feed ramps "not M4" if this helps.

Ammo to be used:

.75 gr. Hornady BTHP Black Moly match
Winchester Nickel Brass
Vihtavuori N140 Powder
CCI Primers

First off, the full length sizer should be all you need. It'll depend on your chamber's dimensions, but you most likely will not need a small base die for reliable cycling...

Second, if your going to use nickel plated cases, you might want to get 2 sets of dies anyway, coz those buggers will scratch your dies all to hell pretty quickly, as nickel is harder than the dies...

Good luck!

Just get Dillon dies in .223 and you'll be fine.  They are a SB die and will make tack-drivin' ammo.

As for "nickel being harder than the dies"....it's just a coating and not a big deal.

Rich

Quoted: Just get Dillon dies in .223 and you'll be fine.  They are a SB die and will make tack-drivin' ammo. As for "nickel being harder than the dies"....it's just a coating and not a big deal. Rich

RCBS and Forster both have graciously repaired/replaced dies for me in the past that were damaged/destroyed by reloading nickel plated cases. Both manufacturers advised that this is common with nickel plated cases. This is why I do not load them anymore, and discourage the use of nickel plated cases.

YMMV. Just trying to help...

Well, I have 100 winchester Nickel cases , and 2000 winchester Brass.

The Nickel might be loaded for 1 time use then, if it might damages the dies " I got nickel to try since they should be a hell of a lot easier to find in tall grass after firing "

wouldn't using a small base die for a rifle that doesn't need it cause problems ? correct me if I'm wrong but isn't loose fitting ammo always a bad thing... not to mention resizing the brass to small would wear my brass more often ?

The short answer on undersized cases is yes, it's a bad thing.  If the case is significantly undersized, it will fire form to your chamber's dimensions. When resized, it will be undersized again. This will cause the brass to become work-hardened and will shorten the life of your brass considerably.

The SBD is not designed to grossly undersize the case. A full length die, when properly adjusted, still leaves the bottom part of the case (web and head) out of the sizer. A SBD will size down further toward the web and head of the case than a full length sizer. This work more of the case, and can lead to shorter brass life, and in worst case, a case head separation on weakend brass.

I have never had occasion to use anything other than full length sizers for AR's, or any other semi-auto weapon. In fact, I usually just neck size rifle cases for my bolt guns, and use the full size for loading virgin brass and AR brass.

Hope this helps.

p.s.--shit can the nickel cases!

wouldn't using a small base die for a rifle that doesn't need it cause problems ? correct me if I'm wrong but isn't loose fitting ammo always a bad thing... not to mention resizing the brass to small would wear my brass more often ?[/b ]


Priority #1 for an autoloader is reliable feeding and extraction.  Case longevity comes way down the list.  If you want case longevity, buy a bolt action and neck size only.  This is one of the prices of reloading for an autoloader.  

My rule of thumb, no more than 5 loadings then scrap the brass.

I don't know about you guys, but my AR jams on the 3rd reload.  Bolt not fully going closed.  About 4 reloads on my Hornady dies before I run into trouble on my Mini-14.  I just ordered a small base die to correct my problem.  

I have reloaded batches of ammo using Lake City brass up to seven times with nothing but standard RCBS dies and have never had an ammo related malfunction.

Quoted: I don't know about you guys, but my AR jams on the 3rd reload.  Bolt not fully going closed.  About 4 reloads on my Hornady dies before I run into trouble on my Mini-14.  I just ordered a small base die to correct my problem.

Are you keeping up with case growth?  Are you pushing the shoulder back at least .003"?

I measured the cases and used a Lee trimmer if they got too long.  Trimmed all brass before the first load.  But they never got too long.  I could use the forward assist to close up the AR.  And I full length resized all brass.  Here we go again but, another shooter saw my problem and said to get the small base dies.  I was using military surplus brass, can't remember what kind as I threw it away when it gave me problems.  All gone now as I started shooting military surplus and left it lay.  Now, I need to get some more brass in as I'm going to start reloading for accuracy.  That and I'm out of primers.  

Quoted: Quoted: I don't know about you guys, but my AR jams on the 3rd reload.  Bolt not fully going closed.  About 4 reloads on my Hornady dies before I run into trouble on my Mini-14.  I just ordered a small base die to correct my problem.   Are you keeping up with case growth?  Are you pushing the shoulder back at least .003"?

Are you sure that the shellholder is coming up tight against the bottom of the die during the sizing operation?  If not the shoulder may not be getting set back far enough.  This can prevent bolt closure because you effectively have negative headspace.

I shoot a RRA with a varmint bbl. I have been using redding dies for the last 3 reload groups  (100 brass cases reloaded 3 times each).  They have worked very well.  I have followed the instructions that came with the dies.  I don't think the sb dies are needed.  From everything I have read they have more stuck case problems than regular fl dies.  

For 223 and 308 i use RCBS full length x dies. All you need to do is trim once, reuse the brass 5-6 times, chuck them and start over.

Quoted: For 223 and 308 i use RCBS full length x dies. All you need to do is trim once, reuse the brass 5-6 times, chuck them and start over.

Huge +1 for RCBS X dies.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I don't know about you guys, but my AR jams on the 3rd reload.  Bolt not fully going closed.  About 4 reloads on my Hornady dies before I run into trouble on my Mini-14.  I just ordered a small base die to correct my problem.   Are you keeping up with case growth?  Are you pushing the shoulder back at least .003"? Are you sure that the shellholder is coming up tight against the bottom of the die during the sizing operation?  If not the shoulder may not be getting set back far enough.  This can prevent bolt closure because you effectively have negative headspace.

That's my guess too.

height=8

Quoted: height=8 Quoted: For 223 and 308 i use RCBS full length x dies. All you need to do is trim once, reuse the brass 5-6 times, chuck them and start over. Huge +1 for RCBS X dies.

I have a batch of Lake City brass on its 5th reload using RCBS X Dies. No problems so far.

Maybe my Hornady sizer die has something wrong with it.  It's set right.  Raise the ram, screw the die in until it touches, lower ram and screw the die in ¼ turn more and make sure the ram “levers” over when the ram is raised again.  That's what the instructions say to do to full length size the shell.  Years ago you could get Winchester FMJ bullets for $28 per 1000 plus shipping.  When that dried up, I quit reloading.  That and the brass problem.  I just bought a RCBS small base die to try again but I'm out of brass.  But I admit.  This is a different AR.  Mini-14 is still with me.  Probably still shoot surplus through it.  Trying to load for a little better accuracy through this gun.  If I can ever get this darn scope mount set right.  

Quoted: Maybe my Hornady sizer die has something wrong with it.

Could very well be.  Try an RCBS X die.  If it doesn't fix your problem, you can unload it here or in a variety of shooter sites for close to what you paid for it ($35).