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Posted: 1/31/2006 9:08:37 PM EDT
[#1]
tenifer?
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Posted: 1/31/2006 9:12:13 PM EDT
[#2]
i just got through using norrell's moly-resin and its holding up pretty good.
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Posted: 1/31/2006 9:36:20 PM EDT
[#3]
We manufacture a finish called Arma-Coat that is extremely durable. You can also apply this product on wood, optics, and plastic. www.armacoat.net if you are interested. It holds up extremely well to chemicals and abrasion. I hope this helps.
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Posted: 1/31/2006 9:56:37 PM EDT
[#4]
I use this, it's tough stuff.
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Posted: 2/1/2006 1:12:19 AM EDT
[#5]
I would say the best finish that you could use at home would be Norrells. You may want to do a search on it, refinishing has been discussed quite a bit lately. There are good pictures and info in those threads.
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Posted: 2/1/2006 2:55:54 AM EDT
[#6]
What about the Org Colt gray finish? It does not like an anodize die but more of an expoy type coat.
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Posted: 2/1/2006 2:57:39 AM EDT
[#7]
I only have personal experience with one and thats DuraCoat. LMT uses it.
It is incredible. Hard as nails, resists scratches, corrosion, and is possible to apply in thousands of patterns Check out chameleonweaponry.com, or duracoat.com |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:38:28 AM EDT
[#8]
How about Brownells Alumacoat II, any opinions? |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:53:40 AM EDT
[#9]
Doesn't look like an original finish. If you want the Colt gray look, Norrells is your best bet.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:03:51 AM EDT
[#10]
Actually, I'm looking for a semi gloss black to refinish an HK91 folder |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:16:55 AM EDT
[#11]
go to norrell's site.
there is also a black they offer that is suppose to ressemble "hk" black |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:19:07 AM EDT
[#12]
I just did an AR barrel with norells and it looks great. Was pretty simple and really seems tough
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:28:27 AM EDT
[#13]
Sorry, I guess I was answering the wrong person in your thread. Yes, the Norrells semigloss black would be a good match. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:50:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Best bet is a thermal setting coating (bake on) on top of a conversion finish (parkerizing or anodizing). Two part paints (Dura Coat) are not in the same league as thermal setting finishes such as Norrell's. Mark covered this subject well here:
www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=105072 |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 10:54:30 AM EDT
[#15]
The absolute, bottom line, BEST, most durable and BLACK as can be finish would be BodyCote's DLC (Diamond Like Coating) over hard chrome. I was lucky enough to have a knife done by them before they stopped accepting small jobs, but would like to have them do my Glock slides if I ever have the chance again. I haven't looked into this option in a few years now however. I made DETAILED posts about this finish / company on GlockTalk and BladeForums in the past.
You can actually take a key out of your pocket and try to scratch the finish and the brass from the key will come off onto the finish without marring it at all. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 12:08:57 PM EDT
[#16]
Again, this is the problem. I'm refinishing an HK91 collapsable with non-removable rubber butt plate. I'm restricted to the spray on variety. I jave two cans of Alumuhyde II. Not sure if this is the best stuff, Cant use a bake on 
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Posted: 2/2/2006 12:52:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Most quality finishes will do that, Norrells is yet another example. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 12:57:26 PM EDT
[#18]
Can you spray it on? Linky? Thanks, Chuck |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 12:58:28 PM EDT
[#19]
Sweet...didn't know that man, thanks.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 1:07:00 PM EDT
[#20]
+1 (without consideration of "exotic" finishing technologies not widely available at present) I've read good things about that Cerakote finish, but it's a bake on at high temp I think. Norrells can be baked at 200 degrees F, wonder if the rubber buttpad could survive that temp. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 1:17:26 PM EDT
[#21]
I'm starting to see a pattern w/ Stickman's responses. Considering his experience and the fact he continually recommends the same product on every refinishing thread (and has used it himself), I'd go with what he recommends.
Dan |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 1:22:00 PM EDT
[#22]
Stainless Steel. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 2:49:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Thanks, I try not to comment on things here unless I have first hand knowledge. When I don't have actual knowledge, I try make sure its known that I am giving an opinion. I've seen too many people post outright lies here like its the gospel truth. If you are looking for Norrells info, here are 2 links, the first being longer, with the second having less Q&A. The links have helped a few people get into Norrels, let me know if I can help answer any questions. 1. AR15 Norrells Refinishing Thread 2. Condensed Version of above link I've also written up a 1911 refinishing guide, and am still working on a shotgun refinishing guide. |
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Posted: 2/3/2006 2:53:13 PM EDT
[#24]
This might be a great finish for an AK or Krink Stick? |
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Posted: 2/3/2006 2:56:12 PM EDT
[#25]
Yes, I think there are a few colors that would look good on the AK series. I've also been very happy with the shotguns and 1911s that I have refinished with Norrells. |
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Posted: 2/3/2006 3:49:13 PM EDT
[#26]
Again, Norrell's on park is a very durable finish. I won't use it on a AK though, don't look right.
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Posted: 2/4/2006 1:42:10 PM EDT
[#27]
Why would it not look right? |
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Posted: 2/4/2006 1:49:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Are you purist? A "Kalashnisnob? If not I won't bother to explain. The whole what is black, and what is gray, and frying pans, and all that is a waste if you are not into that stuff.
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Posted: 2/4/2006 2:22:35 PM EDT
[#29]
If you warmed the semigloss black, I think you would be pretty close to some of the AK "finishes". Similar to the actual paint used on some..... However, I make no claims of knowing all the different AK finishes, and I'll confess I only have one.....
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Posted: 2/4/2006 2:32:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Is this like how you only have "one" AR15? 
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Posted: 2/4/2006 2:33:19 PM EDT
[#31]
Deep inside it hurts me when you talk that way....
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Posted: 2/4/2006 4:46:10 PM EDT
[#32]
CCR's (Cummings Custom Refinishing) Select Series is tough stuff. I have a Kel-Tec P3AT slide with their select series finish and it is hard as nails and great stuff.
http://www.ccr-refinishing.com/rifle.htm |
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Posted: 2/4/2006 5:19:45 PM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 2/11/2006 5:48:18 PM EDT
[#34]
 Our first go around with CeraKoat. We got our little bit of it to work with yesterday and played with it today. Here are some of my observations of the process and the final product. Surface prep, the direction states you need to prep with a 120 mesh media, we did on a reciever and a couple of mags, but we didn't on an AR-10 mag just to see what happens. We then cleaned with acetone and lint free cloths (or so we thought, nore on that in a line or two). We then flashed them up to 260 degrees to compltely degrease and dry the items. While the parts were cooling I mixed the coating up. Now when they say to do this in a well ventilated area, they are very very serious, I wasn't thinking and opened the activator bottle about 9 inches from my face. The fumes hurt my sinuses, throat, and eyes worse than pepper spray, thankfully the pain only lasted a minute or so. Anyway back to the coating instead of my stupidity. Measured and poured well, a bit of a pain to mix as the activator is slighly viscous, and the graduated tube is a nice little place for it to stay so make sure you get all out of the tube. Ok, we used a tip gun to spray it on, worked ok, but think we will be buying an airbrush if we are going to use very often. Lays down very nice and covers well. Reminded me of very high quality primers in this. Now the supposed lint free cloths come to haunt us, this stuff lays so thin that the little bittly lint that stayed shows Badly. So think real tack cloth is needed for final wipe down. Guess we had gotten lazy with powder coating and its thickness and hiding ability. Let it dry then cooked it. Oven was programmed for powder coating, so the two hours at 250 become an hour there then 20 minutes around 220 then the rest of the time back at 250. Pulled them out of the oven and noticed right away that steel took the color differently than the aluminum. Steel was a darker colored finish than aluminum. Also very tough, as a non caught mag showed right away. Won't know how durable it is until i get the upper finished and use the mags for a bit, but as of now am impressed. |
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Posted: 2/11/2006 5:55:04 PM EDT
[#35]
Please tell me the sheen isn't that high in real life..... that looks like a stain, or almost a semigloss.
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Posted: 2/11/2006 5:59:34 PM EDT
[#36]
This is an HK 94 that CAR-15 redid for me and it matches the original HK almost perfect and he uses Norrell's
He also did the 870 in OD for me as well.   A picture of what it looked like before he redid it. 
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Posted: 2/11/2006 6:03:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Not quite as bad as the flash made it look. Will get more pics as build goes together. |
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Posted: 2/11/2006 6:24:53 PM EDT
[#38]
Thankyou.
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Posted: 2/15/2006 12:39:18 AM EDT
[#39]
Stick, can Norrell's be applied to funirture such as CAR/M4 stocks, grips and KAC rail covers?
I apologize if you've covered this before, my brain is just going crazy looking at all the different finishes.  I'd really love to have the Tan color that JosephR has on his middy. I can't recall the finish he used, however, and I remember that you and Mongo were discussing how a certain tan color was not very durable, at least on Teflon coated receivers...was that Norrell's?
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Posted: 2/15/2006 1:33:22 AM EDT
[#40]
I have a couple of 1911s with Walter Birdsong's Black T finish on them, which I really like. I have not heard any mention of using this finish on an AR. Has anyone had their AR finished with Black T or is there a reason preventing this finish?
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Posted: 2/15/2006 9:57:02 AM EDT
[#41]
Yes, Norrells can be used on furniture, but the curing time is reduced, and the temperature is decreased. I've done cheapo handguards, as well as nicer Colts,and never had any problems. I guess its possible that you could have something odd, but I doubt it. Mongo and I were discussing the Tan Norrells on a teflon receiver and the issues that the teflon induces. If you aren't using teflon, its not an issue. Here is a basic tan carbine I did awhile ago..... 
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Posted: 2/15/2006 4:08:02 PM EDT
[#42]
Can you use Norells with temps as low as 150 degrees? |
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Posted: 2/15/2006 5:25:15 PM EDT
[#44]
Its doubtful that it would cure in any realistic time. With plastics I usually go at 250 for 90 minutes, and have gone as low as 200 for 2 hours. The key is to verify your cure with acetone, MEK or similar solvent. The lower your heat, the more pliable the finish, the higher the heat, the harder the finish, at least that is what the website states. The Norrells website used to give info about heating plastics at 250 for 90 minutes, but it has been removed. I would guess this is due to a few different events, mainly people curing plastics that have metal running through them. The heat takes different in the metal, and can cause issues with the plastic. However, this is a guess on my part, and I have no positive information on why it was removed. The entire guide that was written up was done to help people, but I can only relay the information that has worked for me. The experiences of many people have shown that these methods work very well, but I can't say as I have magic answers for everything. I'm sure there is someone who has some material that I haven't played around with, but from bone to plastics to various metals, Norrells has done pretty well for me. Here is another weapon that has been entirely done with Norrells. This one was done several years ago, and has been a test mule for a friend. It has been used by friendly nation forces, as well as by loads of regular people around here. I should probably get a current picture to show its durability, but it has worked out better than expected, especially considering what its been through.  |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 2:42:56 PM EDT
[#45]
Stickman,
In the photo above... Is this the norells OD green? Is this a semi gloss ... is there a technique that is used to get a flatter finish? Thanx, Tony |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 4:41:57 PM EDT
[#46]
You guys do realize that Tenifer is not a finish. It is a treatment. The black finish you see on Glocks is not the Tenifer |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 5:50:41 PM EDT
[#47]
Its Norrells OD Green, it is a matte finish. I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean about a flatter finish.... flatter than what? |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 6:07:43 PM EDT
[#48]
Flatter than a bunny with a pancake on his head! If you are using a matte finish, pre-heating the parts will allow the paint to dry as soon as it touches the surface. The little paint gobs won't run together to make a smoother coat, as long as you use a light coat. This can net you a flatter finish. |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 6:17:10 PM EDT
[#49]
I was referring to the sheen of the weapon...Gloss , semi gloss, matt ,or flat finish( no gloss at all)
I realize the way the light shines on an object in a photo has alot to do whith the way the sheen appears in the photo. When I refinish my weapon I dont want the sheen to be glossy but more of a " flat" finish. |
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Posted: 2/16/2006 6:32:51 PM EDT
[#50]
Great tutorial on re-finishing Stick,I might have to try that seeing as I have everything except the paint.
On durability..on the flat top AR,will the paint flake away after taking a LaRue mount on and off ? I have one AR (GASP!) and i go to the range every weekend and go through about 300-500 rounds.I break down and clean my rifle after every trip.I also transport it broken down,wrapped in a green army scarf stuffed inside a gym bag. How long under this type of use will the finish hold up for ? |
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