If the geometry of the trigger does not change, you won't be improving the pull that much (actually very little). Even less its creepyness.
Lowering the spring force on a standard trigger is more likely to create ignition problems than anything IMHO.
Without making any change to the trigger you can try to remove the trigger spring, arm the hammer (you'll need to push the trigger forward to help the sear engagement) and try the pull.
Notice how all the triggers that have (or that can be tuned to have) feather-weight pull moved the point where the hammer engage the trigger on the back of the hammer and up on the trigger, so that 1) the force that the hammer exercise on the trigger passes through the trigger pin axis (reduce the force's moment) 2) the force that the trigger pull applies to the hammer-trigger surface is almost parallel to the surface itself (reducing the normal component minimize the friction).
When you have brought to almost zero the intrisic trigger pull, then you can upload the user-experienced one to a srping and make it tunable.
If you go ahead and try to change the existing spring, I'd suggest that you buy replacement ones so that you won't waste a trip to the range in case it won't function correctly
- Ice