do you guys know how to set battle sight zero with a arms #40 sight?  there is no yardage adjustment to turn back and set zero,  any help would be great, thanks

I just set mine at 50 yards.  I never adjust for distance or windage anyway.

Using the small aperature on the ARMS #40, zero the weapon so that the point of aim is the same as point of impact at 50 yards/meters......

Depending on the rifle you might need a taller front sight post.040 as most carry handles and the ARMS#40 only work corect on a rifle that has the taller M4 FSB otherwise it probably needs the taller post.

thanks for the replies, i have the taller front sight post.  if i zero it at 50 meters where will it hit at 200? the rifle is a 16" bushy superlight,

Quoted: thanks for the replies, i have the taller front sight post.  if i zero it at 50 meters where will it hit at 200? the rifle is a 16" bushy superlight,

It will hit LOW until 50 yards
50 yards is of course where you sighted it at so right on
50-300 yards it will hit HIGH
At 300 yards it should be the same is it was at 50 yards
300 + yards it will hit LOW


*This is of course, generally speaking*

N/T

Quoted: Depending on the rifle you might need a taller front sight post.040 as most carry handles and the ARMS#40 only work corect on a rifle that has the taller M4 FSB otherwise it probably needs the taller post.

So I will need a taller FSP with a flattop RR upper or is it a case by case basis?

Quoted: Using the small aperature on the ARMS #40, zero the weapon so that the point of aim is the same as point of impact at 50 yards/meters......

IMO, that is NOT a good idea.  The purpose of a BUIS if as a backup.  You only need it when your main optic fails.  

I have an ARMS #40.  If my Aimpoint goes down, I want to flip it up and use it.  Not flip it up then rotate the apetures.  That takes too long in SHTF scenarios.  It is best to have the large apeture open on the flip because it is easier to use to acquire what you are targeting.

So if I were you, I'd just do the IBZ with the large, standard apeture.

I think he meant use the small apature to zero it.  The #40 has to have the large apature selected for it to fold back down.

Quoted: I think he meant use the small apature to zero it.  The #40 has to have the large apature selected for it to fold back down.

Use the small to zero. If you try to zero using the large aperature, you'll spend a lot of time and ammo accomplishing very little.......

If you zero with the small aperture, your point of impact will change when you flip back to the large aperture (you will be low). If you zero with the large aperture, your point of impact will change when you flip to the small aperture (you will be high). The only way around this is to replace the ARMS #40 aperture with a same-plane aperture.

Alternatively, you can do what I've done and zero the small aperture at 50yds. At close ranges, I am a low with the larger aperture and holdover at extremely close ranges is even higher; but at those ranges, being off a little is less important.  As distance increases, so does time to flip to the small aperture for better accuracy. From 50-225, I am within 2" of the point of aim and using the notch, I can hit out to 500yds on an IDPA silhouette.

Never mind.