I have no experience with the Hogue tubes.  I have a RRA float tube on my RRA Varminter.  It's a single piece aluminum tube.  It's okay, but when that tube sits in the hot sun for any length of time, it can get nearly too hot to hold.

I've got two Daniel Defense tubes on two of my carbines and like them a lot.  These tubes have rails at the top, bottom and both sides for accessories (lights, QD bipod, vertical grip, side sling adapters, etc.).  These two carbines are my CQB guns and are setup with vertical grips and lights.  So, for these blasters I needed tubes with rails.  

I have a LaRue rail on a 20" government profile barrel rifle.  I like the LaRue the best of all of them.  They have an alignment tool and "keeper" which guarantees the top rail lines up with the upper receiver.  The "keeper" also uses two screws to index the tube and ensure the main tube ring doesn't work itself loose.  

Both the DD tubes and the LaRue ones use an aluminum barrel nut to replace the original steel one.  Thus, with these handguard systems you might gain a little weight with the rail, but lose a little weight by ditching the steel nut and the delta ring assembly.

Even if you don't want to hang a bunch of crap off the end of your rifle, I like the better cooling of the DD and LaRue rails.  The extra vent holes do help the air circulation around the barrel.

You can add different rail covers to the railed tubes to give you a better feel and protect the rails.

BTW, welcome to the site!  

In all my rambling I forgot to mention I had to remove the FSB (Front Sight Base) to install the LaRue and DD tubes.  Removing the pins isn't a big deal on most barrels, but (in my experience) can be a huge problem on Bushmaster barrel.  There are a few tricks to removing the pins though.

Troy makes a rail system that attaches as two pieces and you avoid having to remove the FSB.  Then there are other systems like the SIR that also don't require FSB removal.

Don't let removing the FSB be a deciding factor FOR NOW.  Figure out what you want and then worry about how to make it happen.

BTW, introduce yourself in your Hometown forum.  Chances are some local boys will be able to help you with any installation.  Might even find someone with a Hogue or other forend you can try before you buy.

I'll give you a few pieces of advice for removing those pins.  Soak the pins in Kroil for awhile (I sometimes let them sit a few hours).  Use a 3# or 4# hammer and hit those pins like you've got a set, boy!    Seriously, hit the crap out of them.  If you don't get the pins moving after a hit or three, the ends will start to mushroom.  Then you have to grind the heads of the pins off if you ever want them out.

Brace the barrel and FSB on a solid piece of wood on a solid support (like a concrete floor).

Brownell's sells a special punch that has a concave end.  It helps prevent the taper pin heads from mushrooming.  Good $5 spend, IMHO.

It's not a bad idea to have a buddy hold the barrel steady while you smack the punch with the hammer.  If you have a good enough buddy, maybe he'll hold the punch too.  

Knock the pins out from the left to the right.  The left side is the side with the bolt release, the right side is the side with the mag release.  

If you mangle the FSB getting it off (like if you end up cutting it off with a dremel because you messed up the pins; not that I'm admitting to doing that  ), you will not be able to just buy another FSB and attach it to the barrel.  The taper pin holes are drilled after the FSB is put on the barrel.  Just keep it in mind.

Best of luck and post pictures!

Forest just nailed it.  Buy the Troy rail that you can install without removing the FSB.