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Posted: 9/18/2004 12:30:01 PM EDT
and came home with a new AR! :) (Valley Forge Gun Show if anyone else went, I heard a guy talking about ar15.com) Got one of the 20" bushmasters with the flash hider and 30 round mag with it for $800, brand new, first AR. Needless to say, I love it! (Also picked up an old bolt-action MN 91/30 as well).
Another silly question for all of you guys though. Do you need to wipe oily spots on the outside of the receiver and the stock off? If so, what would you reccomend using? Thanks. |
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Congrats! I use a piece of cut up black t-shirt to wipe down my receivers. Anything else can leave colored lint behind. |
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do you use any solvents or water, or just the dry cloth? i'd post pics of my rifle but don't know how to upload them.
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I will usually use a little CLP if the finish is really dry or just to even things out. After that, I'll pretty much just use the plain cloth. |
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cool
that was an ok price i use gun cloth or an old cotton shirt; CLP to do ANYTHING (clean, wipe off, etc.) |
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The trick, as mentioned, is use an old BLACK T-Shirt. |
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Congratulations on the new rifle!
Great choice. (Photos need to be hosted at a site like Photobucket.com, then when you want to show one, select Image -below- and copy the URL of the photo from your album on Photobucket.com and Paste it where you are promted- its pretty straightforward, but you need them loaded on Photobucket.com first) Enjoy that Bushy! |
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Parkerizing is porous, and this is how it protects... it absorbs oil like a sponge. For greatest corrosion protection, wipe down with an oily rag. Even if you don't want to use BreakFree for this, a good substitute, one I use as a "wipe down" is an old T-shirt rag with Old English furniture oil. Does wonders for wood stocks, too, and this is all I have ever used for shotgun bores.
Especially on new firearms, wipe down and leave heavily oiled, almost dripping, and let that soak in a few days so the parkerizing on the barrel, front sight base, etc, can absorb the oil. Then you can wipe it dry to the touch. Of course, normal lubrication of sights and internals is all done with BreakFree. |
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Thanks A_free_man, i took your advice and oiled it down using hoppes, then wiped it off with a WHITE (blasphemy) t-shirt, and the smudgey oil spots have now disappeared.
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A word of caution on using Hoppe's on your aluminum recievers. The anodized finish on the receivers is sealed with nickle acetate and this seal can be harmed by using Hoppe's to clean it. |
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what time were you at VF? It's possible we could have run into each other there.
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Probably not. Just don't do it again. |
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Quantum, I got there at 8:45 and stood in the line + rain :P I left around 11:30ish and stayed mainly in the middle where they had the guys with tons of ammunition at good prices and lots of AR's. I picked my bushmaster up over by the left from the main entrance from an ex-Navy corpsman and got my MN 91/30 a couple tables down. Overall I liked the show, it was my first one, but they could definately add more room. How bout those .50 cal Barrets? Those things were nasty! Good times :)
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Bradd, thanks for the advice about not using hoppes, now i'm not gonna sleep thinking about my AR deteriorating! ;) What oil would you reccomend to do the job?
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Any gun OIL is fine, just dont use anything that acts as a sovent, i.e. Hoppes No.9.
I often use Mobil 1 0 weight oil when I run out of BreakFree CLP. Tony |
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So I just got some break-free clp (i normally use hoppes #9). Can I use that as both a solvent and an oil? So i can replace hoppes #9 with it, as well as use it as oil?
Thanks. |
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MPRO-7 will take off oil and leave no residue. Completely biodegradable and it will not harm the finish.
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I use Breakfree CLP for everything on the rifle except the bore. It's not a good idea to use CLP in the bore as it leaves behind a layer of Teflon that will bake on when firing the gun. To be honest, I just use a plain old boresnake for the bore.
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Can you purchase BreakFree CLP at most firearm stores, or does it need to be specially ordered? Only firearms store that I know of around me is 45 minutes away and I do'nt recall seeing it there the last time I went.
And would hoppe's be fine for the bore or is that a no-no as well? |
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CLP should be available at any gun store or sporting goods store that sells guns. Hoppe's is fine for the bore. |
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Let me see if this works, if it does you should be able to see my gun show purchases :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/hi2u/ar2.jpg 2000 rounds of the new poly-coated wolf, 2 30 round mags, 400 rounds of 7.62 x 54 for the MN 91/30, and the Bushmaster :D |
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No i've used hoppe's to wipe down the receiver and stock
I've yet to fire it, will go monday probably |
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I'm confused. Sorry I'm new the ar scene and not familiar with all gun terminology.
The bore is the chamber where you load the round, it narrows down and then you have the barrel? How is it possible to clean the barrel with clp, but not to clean the bore? And I can't get hoppes #9 on my receivers, but Hoppes gun oil is fine right? Thanks for bearing with me. |
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Do you wax your car with brake cleaner too? |
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I wonder if maybe he is referring to Hoppes oil and not #9? |
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The name on the squeeze tube is Hoppe's Lubricating Oil. Sorry that I don't know much about guns, but I enjoy shooting them and am trying to get into the sport.
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Actually, the chamber is the chamber where you load the round. The bore is the hole in the barrel where the bullet travels upon firing. You shouldn't use CLP in the bore because the friction of the passing bullets will cause the Teflon in the CLP to bake on creating nasty black sludge. Any gun oil, including Hoppe's, is fine. |
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That's different...when you say "hoppe's" most people will think you are referring to the powder solvent.
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Yep...my mistake...I should have clarified. |
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The cleaning guides out there all have conflicting information.
So I should use hoppes #9 for cleaning the barrel(which is the bore) or a similar solvent, and only use CLP to wipe down the exterior parts of the barrel, as well as the receiver, and all internal parts. So I should use only a solvent to clean the barrel, and only an oil to clean any other metal parts? Do I have all that right? |
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Ah, I see. My mistake. I have been using hoppe's gun oil, not the solvent. but you can use the solvent for cleaning the bore, correct? it's what i use for my .22. And as far as getting wolf ammo, I wouldve gone for the xm193 or whatever that good stuff is for $179 per 1000, but being in school and not having a full time job doesn't allow my wallet to open too far :P
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I would recommend solvent for the bore and CLP for everything else. The reason I would recommend CLP over oil is because it is a cleaner as well as a lubricant.
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I'm with you on that one Just wait till the STEEL cases start chewing holes in the finish around the ejection port. |
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Can't keep it a safe queen forever. Besides, it'll add character. Won't hurt the rifle any. |
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I have a friend who shoots Wolf exclusively through his AR and only cleans every 3 or 4 range sessions. Hasn't had a hiccup or failure yet. |
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Yeah, i'm not too worried about cleaning or FTE/FTF, but i doubt it substantially chews the finish off your ejection port... or I could be wrong
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Walrus - just put a piece of black electrical tape on the case deflector ( bumpy thing)
when you shoot - cheap - and stops marks! Breakfree / CLP is an allpurpose cleaner / lubricant - you can use it anywhere on you AR - wont harm finish OR the Bore Wolf poly coatedAmmo is good cheap plinking ammo - I use it in all three of my AR's Dont worry about hurting your rifle with it ! ( I have an Armalite , Bushmaster , and Rock River - they ALL work fine with Wolf ) |
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Thank you very much for the advice AKsRule, that made me feel better about my ammo purchase :) Just the tape of the case deflector or near the ejection port as well?
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I've had some problems with Wolf ammo but never with Winchester or Federal.
YMMV. Enjoy your rifle! CRC |
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