Do ARs generally throw shells across the range?  My DPMS rifle will always eject the shells about 7-8 feet.  Pisses off some of the other shooters cause now they are walking in my shells or are getting their equiptment bombarded by 5.56.  They always land in the same spot, which is nice if you reload.

does your upper receiver look like the top one or the bottome one?

Or in other words, do you have a shell deflector?

Bottom, well it does not have a shell deflector since it is the DPMS High Rail system on it.

Quoted: Do ARs generally throw shells across the range?  My DPMS rifle will always eject the shells about 7-8 feet.  Pisses off some of the other shooters cause now they are walking in my shells or are getting their equiptment bombarded by 5.56.  They always land in the same spot, which is nice if you reload.

Positive ejection is a good thing.  Just go to the far right hand side of the range next time

FWIW, you can change the ejection pattern on your HI-Pro DPMS, even without the shell deflector.

1. Pull the ejector spring out of your Field Repair or Spare parts kit (you should have one or get one, just incase you need a spare spring, pin, extractor or whatever).

2. Once certain you have the proper spring, using a pair of jewelers' dikes (small wire cutters) "snip" two rounds off the end of the ejector spring. (Note: do not bend the spring in order to snip off the rounds, best to have the right type snips which will allow you to clip one round at a time from the end of it, so spring does not get bent or damaged. Also, using a fine file or sanding wheel on your Dremel tool make certain you leave NO burrs that might inhibit proper function of the spring, make it as smooth as the original, which you will save should ya get carried away and snip too much off.)

3. Remove bolt and carrier from your AR.

4. Seperate the bolt from the carrier and wrap it carefully in a rag and place it face up in a vise. (DO NOT overtighten the bolt in the vise, just snug will do as you don't want to damage the bolt)

5. Using an expended round, have a friend or your better half hold the empty brass round in the bolt face compressing the ejector.

6. Using the proper sized punch (IIRC 1/16"), tap the ejector retaining pin toward the "bottom" of the bolt, note: it's not necessary to push it all the way out, just until the ejector and spring will come out.

(Careful as the ejector is under spring pressure and it'll shoot out, so release pressure on the brass case slowly and hold hand over it so it don't fly off!!!)

7. Remove the stock ejector spring and replace it with the "modified" one.

8. Replace spring then ejector and using the same expended brass case, re-compress the ejector.

9. As ejector retaining pin is still partially inserted, carefull tap it back in place and bolt mod is done.

10. Replace the bolt back in the carrier and both back in rifle and test your new brass drop location.

As most of us started with one round and ended up at two rounds off the existing spring I suggested you start with two. If necessary you can clip another, but only one round at a time until the ejection pattern is where you like it.

This process is referred to by High Power competitors as Potty-Training your AR and is the esiest method for changing the ejection pattern of your rifle.

Hope it's of some use,
Mike

They don't throw them nearly as far as a Mini-14 Ranch rifle! My old mini would throw them 30 feet or more!

My gun throws them in the exact same place every time. Most of the time I will scuff my feet in the dirt to mark position the shoot 2 rounds. I wil then place the garbage can where the 2 casings landed and have at it. I ususally put 25 out of 30 rapid fire rounds in the garbage.

My mini on the other hand throws them about 30 feet and they go everywhere so I bought a brass catcher and it works perfect.

My PTR-91 throws them so far away, I don't worry about retrieving them.

Mr_Wilson, thanx for the info.

Will try the mod on my DPMS Classic A2, which has always thrown brass toward 4 o'clock and into the next Zip code. At least it was consistent, though ... like others I could put a baseball cap where the first two rounds landed and just about put the rest into the hat!

Quoted: My PTR-91 throws them so far away, I don't worry about retrieving them.

Ditto, if they start complaining about the light ejections of the Ar-15, break out the HK-91.  
Trust me, the brass out of it is lethal for 30 feet (case mouths will cut you if you are too close).

Also, the AR-15 should eject the brass around 8' (in the air before touching ground).

Quoted: My PTR-91 throws them so far away, I don't worry about retrieving them.

HKs are notorious for having a violent ejection. I saw a guy shooting an HK-91 outside and was amazed at how far they shells were going. On a similar note, you should try shooting an HK-94 at an indoor range. The friggin' brass bounces off the partition on my right and sometimes the shells go over the partition on my left. It's almost like having an auxilary weapon the right side of your rifle.

Besides Wilson's method, you could also stick a piece of thick tape, foam, inner-tube or rubber on the front of the deflector.  This will absorb some of the force and the thicker the material the less your brass will travel.
The problem with cutting the spring is that unlike competition shooters, you are likely to use a variety of ammo and cutting the spring will affect all of them. Some of the weaker stuff may cause jams when using a cut down spring. Not really a problem with the tape as you can just peel it off.

Heck, my AK47 tosses them so far I cant even find them!!

Perfect for Wolf cases, dont want them anyhow.

Quoted: Besides Wilson's method, you could also stick a piece of thick tape, foam, inner-tube or rubber on the front of the deflector.  This will absorb some of the force and the thicker the material the less your brass will travel. The problem with cutting the spring is that unlike competition shooters, you are likely to use a variety of ammo and cutting the spring will affect all of them. Some of the weaker stuff may cause jams when using a cut down spring. Not really a problem with the tape as you can just peel it off.

Except you missed the fact that DPMS low-pro or hi-pro uppers HAVE NO Deflector.

BTW, if mod is made properly, even low powered PMP ammo which won't cycle my Bushmaster M4 still cycles in my LR AR which has had this mod made on it. The point is not to go "too far" with the modification.

Mike

Not that an SKS has a terrible throw, but mine shoots them almost stright up and to the right.  I was shooting at an indoor range and a shell nailed a flouresant tube light and it rained dust and glass on me.

Pissed me off.  They had no protection over the light.

Quoted: Not that an SKS has a terrible throw, but mine shoots them almost stright up and to the right.  I was shooting at an indoor range and a shell nailed a flouresant tube light and it rained dust and glass on me. Pissed me off.  They had no protection over the light.

Reminds me of an SKS story from long ago.  Was shooting with a buddy at an outdoor range and he fired a shot.  I sort of saw the brass eject, but it seemed to dissapear and I couldn't hear it land.  Later we found it stuck into a wood beam supporing the overhang right over the shooting position!

It was muggy outside so we were shooting out of the hut at our local range.  Mini-14 brass took out a window.  Same day, I took a shell from the same mini-14 to my upper lip from about 4 feet away.  Yep, it hurts.  Loading mags to the right of a shooter isn't the best idea - BUCC_Guy

Quoted: My PTR-91 throws them so far away, I don't worry about retrieving them.

You ain't kidding.  I think my 51 has thrown some brass which is still in orbit.

Quoted: Except you missed the fact that DPMS low-pro or hi-pro uppers HAVE NO Deflector.

LOL..I can see how that could be a problem with my solution.

Sorry for my misuse of terms.   I thought that most people would know that ARs aren't a 12 gauge.