i need info on it. i cant fine any

DuraKote is a spray on epoxy paint that is sold by Brownells gun supply in Iowa. Its claim to fame is that it is baked on and supposedly more durable than other paints. Also, it supposedly dries in a much thinner layer than other paints, thus it can be used where parts clearances are meant to be tight. It has some molybdenum compound in it that is also supposed to lubricate so it could be used to paint gun parts that come in contact with other parts.

I used it recently to paint an aluminum receiver for a shotgun. It seemed to work fine, but I don't think it is particularl durable since when I was reassembling the interior trigger/hammer/breach latch pieces it scratched off in a couple of places.

Since the assembly of the trigger and hammer with the springs and drift pins was not easy for me (I am not a properly equipped gunsmith, but am reasonably handy) I am thinking about two options to fix this. 1) Recoat with parts in the receiver and bake the whole thing or 2) Recoat with another paint that doesn't need to be baked at the higher temperatures of DuraKote.

The tricks with DuraKote are that you have to be scrupulous about degreasing (I used acetone) and you have to be able to bake the part at 325 degrees after it air dries. I used the oven and checked the temp with a thermometer. Also, you are supposed to warm the part to about 100 degrees before painting to help with bonding.

I forget the other epoxy paint that is baked at lower temperatures (it is in the Brownell's catalog too).

Not to hijack your thread, but can anyone advise  how high I could heat spring steel (e.g., trigger and hammer springs) before they lose their springiness or temper? You might need this info yourself if you are doing what I have done and the assembly is problematic in your situation.

Hope that helps.

wow thanks. i have a brownells account so i can do some home work.

Say what?  Are you sure you are talking about the same product?  Here is the manufacturer from whom you can by direct:

[url=www.lauerweaponry.com]DuraCoat[/url]

It does not NEED to be baked, but if you do, you can do so at LOW temperatures like 120degF, which does nothing but cure it quicker.

I think there are two products discussed here, Dura [b]C[/b]oat and Dura[b]K[/b]ote.  I think the Duracoat is pretty tough stuff.

I think you are right; I am mistakenly referring to GunKote (which Brownells carries, along with some other products).

Me bad.

Looking at the DuraCoat web page, perhaps I should try it the next time I need to refinish aluminum.

Thanks for the correction.

This is where I get my DuraCote products from:
[url]http://www.lauerweaponry.com/ezac/index.asp?page=00041[/url]

They are also always willing to answer any tech questions you may have.

I have used the Duracoat and really like it. I had them color match a black exactly to a Leupold scope [for rings and bases] and to a tan that was on a custom bolt gun. It sprays on easy with an airbrush. I degrease the parts, pre-heat them with a quartz lamp, spray the Duracoat and let it set for about 10 days, it has always came out great looking. I have not had bore cleaner or brake cleaner damage it yet and it has not worn off my bolt. I used the Gunkote and thought it was no better than Krylon. You do not want to coat your springs.

That's great to hear.  It keeps you out of the Wife's oven, and allows you to paint plastics and such cause you don't have to bake them at high heat (i.e. meltdown).  I've heard it was pretty tough - chips more than wears.  It's what I am going to use when I do my first camo job.

Aimless, do you know how it holds up to harsh cleaners like Gun Scrubber or other solvents?

Sounds like I need to re-coat my shotgun receiver with DuraCoat.

Wonder if I can put it on over the GunKote that is already there.

Regarding springs, I do NOT mean to paint them; that's the reason I took them out in the first place. It was such a pain to get them back in the receiver after painting it that I might want to paint the receiver with masking to prevent spray inside, and use a product that doesn't need a high temp to cure. Sounds like DuraCoat would be the thing to do. I was not wanting to bake springs at 325 for fear of losing temper/springiness.

I have duracoat on 2 of my shotguns and 2 rifles " not in my ar NOT YET" I won't even think of trying another finish.  As far as going over gunkote I personnaly wouldn't, i bought a sand blaster for 15 bucks at walmart and some silica sand at a local harware store.and blasted everything I planned to coat, that's recomended by "Laure Custom Weaponry" Where I got my Dura Coat from.  I Would check out their site before refinishing they have step by step instructions.

I just got mine back from [url]www.chameleonweaponry.com[/url] - here she is:
[img]http://sniper.rsvs.net/DesertLTR.jpg[/img]

That's also my Cold Steel Trailmaster finished to match.  I think it's frigging beautiful.

Here she is outside, just a couple of minutes ago:
[img]http://sniper.rsvs.net/DesertLTR2.jpg[/img]

This is Lauer DuraCoat, done by our very own Brasspile.

wow, those look great. Do you have any tips and tricks for those of us who want to try something like this?

Damn, that paint job rocks!

I might have to get that done to my rifle!

Yeah, send it to [url]www.chameleonweaponry.com[/url]

It's an epoxy type finish, tough as fuck, and it's kind of a pita to work with...I just let Brass do it.  He has respirators and shit.

SCHWEET!

What the Deal with the TEFLON MOLY baked finnish? Is it the same thing? Im haveing a rifle right now done with this method. The Gunsmith thats doing it speaks highly of this process.I haven't a clue????? WarDawg

Is the teflon what Colt used on its ar's that have the greyish black look?  Arnt the new ones an anodized finish?  Has anyone used the Norrell moly coat, its what the Army uses to refinish Colt m16s.