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Posted: 9/22/2003 6:30:10 AM EDT
[#1]
CLP. Use WD-40 on your hinges - not your rifle.
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Posted: 9/22/2003 12:58:46 PM EDT
[#2]
Actually, I wouldn't use WD-40 on hinges either, and there's no way I'd let it near my guns.
Stick with CLP. -Troy |
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Posted: 9/22/2003 2:38:45 PM EDT
[#3]
I use WD-40 on stuck bolts.
[LOL] |
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Posted: 9/22/2003 2:44:38 PM EDT
[#4]
BF CLP..or..EEZOX!
WD40....naaa! |
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Posted: 9/22/2003 2:51:54 PM EDT
[#5]
I would use a silicone rag for most the outside and CLP for moveable parts.
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Posted: 9/22/2003 2:56:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Use WD-40 to get the human scent off your fishing hook and add a different more attractive one (to fish anyway)
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Posted: 9/22/2003 6:08:10 PM EDT
[#7]
WD-40 is good for starting corrosion where there wasn't any before.
CLP is a good cleaner and a fair lubricant but not the best at preventing corrosion. LSA, Militec, Tetra oil and Tetra grease are much better at preventing corrosion. I conducted a test with 6 plain steel nails, with no special coating of any kind. I coated one with WD-40, one with CLP (break-free), one with milspec LSA, one with Tetra Oil, one with Tetra Grease and the last with Militec. I left all six out on a plank near a sprinkler during a rainy week for about 6 days. The WD-40 nail was completely coated with surface rust. The CLP nail had about 40-50% of its surface rusted where it was exposed to the elements. The LSA, Tetra oil and Militec nails had a small area of rust only at the very point where the oil washed off, and the Tetra grease nail had no corrosion whatsoever. Conclusion: LSA, Tetra oil and/or grease and militec are good corrosion preventatives, CLP is not so good at preventing corrosion, and WD-40 is right out. |
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Posted: 9/22/2003 6:14:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Do you put anything on the black finish of your AR?
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Posted: 9/22/2003 6:23:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Just to let you all know miltec has the worst corosion resistance rusting a complete bolt and carrier over after just 12 hours salt spray .So says the report from CRANE Naval Surface Warfare Center wich there is a link to at the miltec site,I have taken my preban bushie the last 11 years in all kinds of bad wet weather,ive always used just CLP to clean and lube and have never had rust on any steel surface of my rifle,same claim cannot be made by miltec although LSA is still a good lube and I use it on my 1911s I could do the ARs but I would have to get all the old lube off first.In a pinch I would use it on the rifles if I was short on CLP.Just my .02
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Posted: 9/22/2003 6:33:58 PM EDT
[#10]
It's hard to believe Militec tops Breakfree CLP in corrosion protection, but if you say so!
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Posted: 9/22/2003 9:22:07 PM EDT
[#11]
I live in a humid climate where there are about 1000 lakes just in my county... Can you gues the state! the house i live in is old and doesnt seal up to well. I have tride lots of stuff but what alot of guys are using up here is Seafoams Deep Creep. It does no damage leaves no residue but stays on the metal where applied. And since thne i have not had one gun give birth to any ugly brown anywhere even when my basement flooded and the humidity gauge hit 100 on 2000
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Posted: 9/23/2003 6:56:53 AM EDT
[#12]
Yeah, that tetra is great stuff.
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Posted: 9/23/2003 8:56:31 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: WD-40 is good for starting corrosion where there wasn't any before. CLP is a good cleaner and a fair lubricant but not the best at preventing corrosion. LSA, Militec, Tetra oil and Tetra grease are much better at preventing corrosion. I conducted a test with 6 plain steel nails, with no special coating of any kind. I coated one with WD-40, one with CLP (break-free), one with milspec LSA, one with Tetra Oil, one with Tetra Grease and the last with Militec. I left all six out on a plank near a sprinkler during a rainy week for about 6 days. The WD-40 nail was completely coated with surface rust. The CLP nail had about 40-50% of its surface rusted where it was exposed to the elements. The LSA, Tetra oil and Militec nails had a small area of rust only at the very point where the oil washed off, and the Tetra grease nail had no corrosion whatsoever. Conclusion: LSA, Tetra oil and/or grease and militec are good corrosion preventatives, CLP is not so good at preventing corrosion, and WD-40 is right out. Sorry, even Miltec's test show that CLP protects against corrosion better than their product. |
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Posted: 9/23/2003 10:48:21 AM EDT
[#14]
FP-10 CLP & a black cotton t-shirt.
BTW - I never knew Militec was anything more than just a Lubricant. I never saw it advetised as a Protectant or CLP. That's all I use it for, great on pistol slide rails! That stuff is slick!! ~ s0ulzer0 |
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Posted: 9/23/2003 2:46:07 PM EDT
[#15]
A light coating CLP or similar on the receivers, the anodizing soaks it up well and it gives a good uniform finish (some manufacturers use motor oil too). WD40 improves the look of the buttstock IF use sparingly - that's also something manufacturers do.
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Posted: 9/23/2003 7:39:41 PM EDT
[#16]
Did more or less the same test with nails and militec failed miserably the first day. It is no protectant under any circumstance IMO as far as rust is concerned. Yes Crane failed it badly too. My test showed BF to be far better and came in 2nd in fact.
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Posted: 9/24/2003 10:30:06 AM EDT
[#17]
Just covered the little black princess with CLP,man does she look good!
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Posted: 9/24/2003 1:15:47 PM EDT
[#18]
leave the outside finish alone and dry, keep the interals lubed..................
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Posted: 9/24/2003 3:27:34 PM EDT
[#19]
NO!
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Posted: 9/24/2003 6:02:39 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: NO! Using CLP on your AR's exterior, is like using Armor-all on the interior of your car. It makes it look good, but it'll attract dust and grit like a magnet. I wouldn't use anything on it, unless you really like a shiny gun. |
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Posted: 9/24/2003 7:01:56 PM EDT
[#21]
The finish on my reciever seemed to soak it up as others said it would.It doesn't seem to atract any more dust than before.
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Posted: 9/24/2003 7:08:48 PM EDT
[#22]
i once met a guy who told me he cleaned the outside of his rifle with, of all things, lighter fluid. i personally wouldn't let the stuff anywhere near any of my guns, but it takes all kinds i guess.
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Posted: 9/24/2003 7:11:49 PM EDT
[#23]
I met a guy who claimed to wax his car with ATF!
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Posted: 9/24/2003 7:29:47 PM EDT
[#24]
I met a guy who claimed to wax his car with ATF! did he need to pay a tax stamp for that?? |
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Posted: 9/24/2003 7:31:51 PM EDT
[#25]
It took me a second to get that!Good one.
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Posted: 9/24/2003 8:17:23 PM EDT
[#26]
My father was a tool and die maker for 40 plus years before he passed away. In his later years, he worked on plastic injection molds which cost hundreds of thousands of dollars. The molds were injected with molten plastic under lots of pressure-the molds at the same time were cooled by chilled water via water passages through the molds. The molds were highly polished bare metal so the molded parts would not stick. Every time the molds were taken out of service, the water was wiped out of the cavity until dried, and a thin coating of a product called Rust Veto was sprayed on. This stuff was made by the Cosmoline Company. I have used it on lead bullet molds and on my ARs. Once you started shooting and the barrel heats up, the rust veto smokes like any other oil based product. I would dare say a nail left out in the weather treated with rust veto would fair pretty well. I spray all my weapons with Rust Veto if I store them for a long time. Rust Veto smells like crap when first sprayed on, but it does a good job protecting and if not burnt off, it can easily be removed with a mild degreaser.
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Posted: 9/25/2003 5:42:26 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted: Quoted: NO! Using CLP on your AR's exterior, is like using Armor-all on the interior of your car. It makes it look good, but it'll attract dust and grit like a magnet. I wouldn't use anything on it, unless you really like a shiny gun. You don't leave it wet. You let it sit for a couple of hours or overnight, then wipe it dry with a black cloth. Never attracts dirt for me. ~ s0ulzer0 |
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Posted: 9/25/2003 5:34:29 PM EDT
[#28]
When I was in high school, I used to work at a discount auto parts...You wouldn't believe how may complaints i got about armor-all cracking up people's dashboards...
Personally, I use tetra-grease(on my AR)...It'll never evaporate (unlike anything from an aerosol can) and truly penetrates the metal, thereby making it hard to rub off without any chemicals. IMHO |
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