I just did the 15 Minute Trigger Job by AFreeMan. What is the point of cutting the right leg on the hammer spring 1/4"?  The leg still rest on the trigger pin but now its just shorter.  Did I do it wrong, was I supposed to cut it so its only 1/4" long? Thanks in advanced.

-William

It's been a while since I've read the instructions, and I've never done AFreeMan's 15-minute trigger job. But I think you are suppose to reduce the length of the one leg TO ¼".

I didn't trim either leg, or bend them. But I slipped one leg under the hammer pin so it rests against the receiver floor. I did this years ago before I heard about AFreeMan's process and I'm pleased with it. Try slipping your short leg under the pin and I'll bet you end up with what you're looking for.

By cutting the right leg of the hammer pin to 1/4" (not by 1/4", to 1/4"--no, don't measure, just eyeball) it will rest NOT on the trigger pin, or floor of the receiver, but against the front wall of the inside of the lower receiver.

Remember, the left leg was not touched.  It still exerts its full force on the hammer.  The modified right leg now only exerts about half of the force it did before, as it is not flexed back as much as previously.  So, spring force on the hammer is only reduced about 25%-30%, not 50%.  This reduces the pressure of the sear surface, and thus, the pressure needed to pull the trigger.

The trigger spring needs to be strong enough that if slack is taken up on the trigger to nearly releasing the hammer, then you decide not to shoot and let off, that despite the friction of the sear surfaces, the trigger spring will return the trigger to full engagement.  Since the sear pressure has been reduced by the modified hammer spring, the trigger spring may be modified as shown.  There is still enough force left, after modification, for the trigger spring to work properly.

This is an additive effect, both spring modifications have reduced the total trigger pull.

The very light polishing with the compound, NOT stoning of the sear surfaces, or changing angles, or rounding the edges (especially NOT that!), serves to remove the "grittiness" from small imperfections.  This is just lapping in, a sort of accelerated "break in", which just duplicates what would be obtained with a little time and use.

There is still full sear engagement.  The trigger will still return to full engagement when released.  There is nothing unsafe about that!  Also, if you have problems with a particular batch of your favorite 3rd world surplus ammo, an occasional misfire due to hard primers, simple replace both springs with new ones and you have not lost a thing from your experiment... but $3, the cost of the springs.

I hope this explains the why of the 15 Minute Practical Trigger Job.  Perhaps I did not explain that well enough, and am sorry... will try to do better next time.

Eh... is this wise to do on ones' only AR?  I mean, I would like a better trigger, but it seems like if this gun is my very reliable SHTF gun, that after some hard squeezes and knocks the trigger could be compromised?

Forgive me if I am mistaken, I haven't read the whole procedure.  Linkage?

[url]http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm[/url]

If you're worried about reliable ignition, do the smoothing, but leave the springs alone.  It'll be a heavier pull, but still smoother than stock.  Or buy an extra set of springs to modify and then [b]test it[/b] with a sample of your SHTF ammo.

Done it so far with 3 ARs and haven't had a lightstrike yet with any kind of ammo.

I highly recommend it and it's easily reversible if you have recurring nightmares of trying to shoot badguys and your gun won't fire.

Am I the only one who has dreams like that?

WOW! Thanks guys for the great info.  I decied I was only going to cut 1/4" off until I found out what I was supposed to do.  That way I would not have to replace the spring if I was wrong.  Thanks again, it just seemed weird to me at first and I dindnt want to make a mistake.

EDIT:  Just cut the spring and what a HUGE difference.  The trigger is very light and pulls nice.  Now I just need to test it out at the range.

-William

PhoenixIII, in the 10 or 12 years I have been using this trigger job, not ONCE have I had a failure to fire due to this.  OK, I admit to not using any Wolf, Portugese or Guatemalan surplus ammo, but have used S. African Battle packs 55 gr, Fed Am Eagle 55 gr fmj, UMC (Remington generic) 55 gr fmj, Hansen M855 (IMI), Winchester Q3131 and Q3131a, PMC 55 gr fmj, S&B SS109, Black Hills 69 gr, and a lot of my own handloads.  There are probably a few more brands I have used, but these are what come to mind now.  All of this fired just fine.

Also, friends who use this same trigger method all say thiers have worked flawlessly, too.  So, it really hasn't been a concern.

None of us has experienced any safety issues.  No doubling, no other problems.  Just a lighter, smoother trigger pull, and this has contributed to great accuracy.

By all means, test it with a few hundred rounds of your ammo to assure yourself.  And if you have ANY doubts, drop in new springs.

Ridge:  No, that dream is abnormal and means you are on the verge of becoming impotence.  It'll stop working any day, and you'll spend a fortune for Viagra for the rest of your life... without it doing any good.

Normal people dream they are back in 3rd grade, standing in the middle of the school yard in their underwear, and all the other kids are making fun of you.

I just finished a 15 min. trigger job and found it to be a great way to do a trigger on an AR. I also used the set screw in the grip bolt hole to remove some of the take up. Exellent ideas!!!!!

I did that too, and what a great feel it had ! Just wouldn't "bust" any S&B's !!! Went back to stock configuration.

Do you and your friends also chop the hammer or do you just mess with the springs?

[shock] Oh crap.