Hey Folks

 I have a couple guns that I would like to camo.  I already tried to paint one but it didn't work out very well even though I followed Brownells instructions on everything except blasting the stainless parts with Aluminum Oxide grit.  I bead blasted it instead but the coating didn't stick.

 So......does anyone have any ideas on where I can get something blasted with Aluminum Oxide (besides sending it off to Lauer's).  My local gunsmith won't do it because he would have to change out his media and he doesn't want to do that.

 Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks.

Amost all of the heat cured products on the market come from the same place and are just repackaged and relabeled -- I call it "Unobtanium" finish out of my shop.

Anyway... Bead blasting is probably worse than no blasting -- Beads (glass or metal) actually polish the surface and make the finsih fail, as you have seen. I would try a body and paint shop, auto resoration, that sort of thing? I use 90 grit Aluminum Oxide, common in "sand" blast cabinets... the newer stuff makes a very sharp cut and the finish bonds VERY well, when properly done, that stuff is as hard as woodpecker lips (as they say in some parts).

Give any thought to Alumahyde II?


The stuff IS AGGRESIVE!


Back when I did an AR15 with some Teflon/Moly from Brownells it wouldn't stick to what I thought was a properly prepped upper receiver, for whatever reason it just didn't like sticking to the anodized upper even though the finish seemed pretty rough.


The Teflon/Moly that I have used worked just great on prepped steels like a bead blasted steel barrel or cast steel lower, no joy on the upper though.     After reprepping the upper receiver I tried some of the Alumahyde II, after it reached full cure I am quite impressed with that stuff.  Just about hard as nails.

One of the nicest surfaces I've found for putting the teflon/moly to is a nice fresh parkarizing job.

What part of your AR15 are you looking to do?   For the steel parts I'd figure on using the Teflon/Moly and for the aluminum and plastic parts I'd use the Alumahyde II.