User Panel
Posted: 9/22/2021 8:09:37 AM EDT
What do you guys use for a reloading bench top. I used 2x4,s screwed down and my top cracked. I need something not expensive but sturdy to replace it with. Thank for the advice
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[#1]
When screwing down 2x4’s drill a small hole to start the screw in. Much less cracking. If the 2x4 top is real flat I would glue a solid piece of plywood or other table top material.
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[#2]
Doubled 3/4 plywood is popular.
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[#3]
1-3/4" solid wood door cores. You can beat the piss out of them and they're not going anywhere.
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[#4]
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[#5]
1" solid piece of butcher block. You can buy it at menards in various sizes and lengths for reasonable prices...well at least you used to be able to. M l made it a long time ago so not sure what the prices are like now in this nutty world we now live in.
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[#6]
I use a the particle board top with laminate that came on the metal desk I use. I have a strong mount under the Dillion and a fabricated oak mount under the single stage to spread the torque out on the top.
Rigidity of the top is not that important. Support the top with 2x4’s on edge on the underside where the press mounts. This will add rigidity, efficiently to the bench where it is needed most. Mount the scale separate from the bench on a wall where it will not see movement caused from the press. |
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[Last Edit: akethan]
[#7]
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"I miss the days of being able to shoot all commies" G.B.
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[#8]
2x6 work well.
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[#9]
I used old kitchen counter tops from a remodel.
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[#10]
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[#11]
My bench top is 3/4” plywood over a very over-supported frame.
I have front-to-back 2x4 supports every 12 inches, and the top is screwed down to the perimeter and the supports at something like 8-inch intervals. To give myself a smooth surface, I added a 1/4” sanded plywood layer that’s only screwed in a few places, but I glued it to the 3/4” plywood, so it’s like an extra set of plies. It does not flex. You can get just about as stout a top as possible by going with two layers of 3/4” plywood that you glue together and “glue and screw” the result to your bench frame. And always drill pilot holes before you drive screws through the wood. |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
[#12]
Get a solid core door at builder supply and zap it down works good for a bench top
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[#13]
I repurposed a 6’ husky adjustable height work bench from HD, I believe it’s 1.25” butcher block top. Anchored to exposed studs in the basement
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[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#14]
Originally Posted By User55645: 1-3/4" solid wood door cores. You can beat the piss out of them and they're not going anywhere. View Quote |
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[#15]
Attached File
I used a solid core door too. 10 bucks at construction salvage yard. Be sure to square up both sides if you use a door. |
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[#16]
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[#17]
I concur with the previous post about counter tops, I’ve made 4 different benches all out of a “scratch and dent or miscut” countertop I buy at lowes or Menards. The latest one I made was an old commercial style computer desk top. It works and is light gray, which I always like having a bright color for reloading, but I’m a clean freak and want to maintain the cleanliness.
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[#18]
Mine’s doubled 3/4 MDF with several coats of poly on top. Was supposed to be temporary when I put it together 15 years ago…. A little scarred from moving presses and redrilling holes, but still holding up well. The one before that was 1” butcher block. It was a small setup -wall to wall with 2X4 supports nailed to the walls in an unfinished closet under some stairs. Left it when we moved. No telling what the buyers thought was going on in that closet.
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[#19]
Originally Posted By r45d: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/262264/6D5E2C7E-E777-447C-9184-FEB58AE73775_jpe-2136273.JPG I used a solid core door too. 10 bucks at construction salvage yard. Be sure to square up both sides if you use a door. View Quote |
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[#20]
Home Depot has mad stacks of butcherblock right now, in several sizes. When I did my bench, that shit was unobtanium.
A surplus solid core door is also good, and quite heavy. |
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ROCK OUT WITH YOUR GLOCK OUT!
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[#21]
Originally Posted By smitters: I concur with the previous post about counter tops, I’ve made 4 different benches all out of a “scratch and dent or miscut” countertop I buy at lowes or Menards. The latest one I made was an old commercial style computer desk top. It works and is light gray, which I always like having a bright color for reloading, but I’m a clean freak and want to maintain the cleanliness. View Quote I glued a “sanded both sides” layer of 1/4” plywood on top of my existing “B/C” plywood top to deal with some bumps and dents and generally give me a much smoother surface. Once the gluing was done, I sealed it with Kilz primer, then painted it with a gray paint. I had the paint mixed for about a neutral, “18% gray”, specifically to make it easier to see stuff on the bench top and keep the top clean. I’m considering re-topping the bench, or more accurately “adding thickness to the bench top.” My idea is a light, neutral colored scrap of counter top material that I’ll glue on top of everything else. Since the substrate of the bench top is already layers of plywood, the use of a particle board-based counter top scrap won’t impair the stiffness of the top, but it will make it even easier to clean than it is. I wonder if anyone has used a solid surface material for their bench top. Some of these materials are pretty stout… |
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"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
[#22]
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