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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:02:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Nope. It's just a typical Ford.
Sorry, couldn't resist [:D] |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:04:39 PM EDT
[#2]
Smack............blam...........OUCH!
I guess I asked for that one huh? Seriously though, I ordered this truck built to the hilt and never had a moments trouble save the normal stuff. This makes me think there lurks a larger problem. |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:29:09 PM EDT
[#3]
There may be a "lighting computer" in the maze of crap under the dash. I know my 97 has one. See if mebbe a plug may have worked itself loose and just wiggle or "exercise" any connectors there. Do this with all lights off.
marsh |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:31:05 PM EDT
[#4]
I would pull the insturment cluster (thats where all these inicators are right? some ford's have them in a bank above the cluster on the leading edge of the dashboard)and check the "printed circuit" mounted to the back of it it is a translucent piece of plastic as thin as paper with copper traces printed on it one of the grounds or screws has come loose or a trace has cracked breaking a circuit. other than that a connector has come loose or gotten corroded somehow.
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:31:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Is it still under warranty? [?] Seems like a lot of electrical components to go out at one time.
Jamie |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:32:07 PM EDT
[#6]
ford has always had problems with the head light switch, which also controls the interior lights ... the switches melt down. ..check the head light switch...pat
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:42:43 PM EDT
[#7]
Nah.........the headlight switch is basically new.
I broke the original with my knee last year and put in an OEM replacement...........$78...ouch. Warranty is out unfortunately. Getting "advice" from a dealer is like negotiating with a Grizzly that is intent on eating your ass. No go. More? |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:42:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Check the wiring in the frame rail for a possible un plugged connector or short. If you have been driving through tall, stiff weeds or brush, the sticks can hook on the wiring and pull things apart.
Had a similar problem with my '97 F-350. Something hooked the wiring for the back-up lights and whatever else is down there. Broke the little plastic clipe that hold the wires in place. The wires rubbed against the frame until there was a short. I could be way off, but it don't cost nutin' to check.[:\] |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:46:28 PM EDT
[#9]
XKill, I had a similar problem with my 89 Bronco XLT. Do you go off roading alot or run on rutted roads? I did and the seal around my windshield came loose. Turns out, water leaked right into the wrong places whenever it rained. Might try pushing the lower portion of your windshield and see if there's any movement. Or else check on your warranty and call Ford about any recalls. They're usually real good about recalls. Good luck. Keep on truckin!
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Posted: 12/28/2001 6:47:24 PM EDT
[#10]
All of these "indicators" could be on the same ground wire. Done any under-dash worki lately where you might have removed a screw with a ground lug on it?
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Posted: 12/28/2001 7:17:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Burned trace(s) on the circuit board or a ground problem. I'd say the ground problem is less likely since they often involve flickering or intermittent operation, though.
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Posted: 12/28/2001 7:38:39 PM EDT
[#12]
That could be a little tough to find. You have an odd combo of failures unless thay all share the same harness, ground, or connector. Being that all your fuses are good it may not be a short. Looks like you need a good test light like the 'power probe' and some patience. With this you can hook into a harness and put a direct NEG and/or POS connection on it to see if they come back on. Sorry that is all I can come up with, but I will think about it for a while and see if I can help you. If you were close I would have you bring her in to the shop and check it out for you free of charge. Planning on going to the big apple any time soon?
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Posted: 12/28/2001 7:41:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Before you tear stuff apart, go to the auto parts store and buy a Chilton's "Total Car Care" repair manual for your truck. Check the wiring diagrams for your model and see what components/harnesses/connectors are involved in that particular circuit.
Study the dash disassembly pictures and text, then decide if you really want to do this. |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 8:03:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Yech, some of those aftermarket repair manuals really suck! Incomplete wiring diagrams, when they include any at all...
If this truck is a "keeper", the original factory service manuals are the only way to go. |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 8:17:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: Yech, some of those aftermarket repair manuals really suck! Incomplete wiring diagrams, when they include any at all... If this truck is a "keeper", the original factory service manuals are the only way to go. Yep. OEM factory manuals are the best, I got a set for my van $150! But the aftermarket manuals seem to be better for diagnosis of certain problems. |
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Posted: 12/28/2001 10:09:50 PM EDT
[#16]
[b]$150?
Y-E-O-W!!!!!!![/b] I'm dating my Dodge here, but I think I paid $40 for mine. Some of the diagrams in it will take you several hours to figure out, but at least they're all there! Best money I every spent. You know, it wouldn't cost the auto companies more than $10 to put the entire service manual on a CD-ROM. They could even put a standard USB or RS-232 diagnostic connector in the engine compartment that you could connect to your PC to trouble-shoot everything yourself. Naturally, as long as their dealers charge $70 per hour for service, that ain't gonna happen, though... |
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Posted: 12/29/2001 12:13:54 AM EDT
[#17]
How do you go about fixing a power window that won't move in a 94 ford ranger?
The switch is still good because the voltage gauge drops when it is pressed. Bad motor or is something just stuck? |
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Posted: 12/29/2001 2:56:51 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted: How do you go about fixing a power window that won't move in a 94 ford ranger? The switch is still good because the voltage gauge drops when it is pressed. Bad motor or is something just stuck? |
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Posted: 12/29/2001 11:44:01 AM EDT
[#19]
I took the door panel off and there are 3 rivets holding the motor in a really hard to reach area in the door. I have no idea how to get the thing out of there.
Damnit Jim, I am a pseudo-gunsmith, not an automechanic! |
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Posted: 12/29/2001 12:19:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: I took the door panel off and there are 3 rivets holding the motor in a really hard to reach area in the door. I have no idea how to get the thing out of there. Damnit Jim, I am a pseudo-gunsmith, not an automechanic! In my full size 1989 Bronco, I had to drill out hole to reach the three nuts mounting the electical window motor. I went to Ford and verified this before I did it. The factory placed "dimples" in the sheet metal at the points that have to be drilled. Just make sure to apply some kind of sealant to the bare metal after you drill and put the vapor barrier back in place too. |
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