M1 Garand Questions

Posted: 12/10/2001 7:29:06 PM EDT

I have a line on a Winchester M1 that appears to be in good to very good condition. What should I look for as far as wear and damage on the gun? How can I tell if it is a frankengun? Assuming everythng checks out what would be a fair price for it (the guy is selling it for $639)? I know CMP is cheaper, but I want a Winchester, and as I understand it, CMP does not take requests. TIA.
Kyle

Posted: 12/10/2001 8:39:38 PM EDT

[#1]

do the bullet test at the muzzle...take a 30.06 cartridge and place it in the muzzle end.if the bullet goes all the way down.....not good.....barrel worn badly or crown is shot out.. that is the first thing u look for!next thing i would check is the op rod. take the rifle out of the stock, then the op rod spring and other parts.after this, let the op rod move up and down...it should be smooth without hanging up on anything....bent op rods are a problem!...start there,,

Posted: 12/10/2001 8:54:19 PM EDT

[#2]

After you've shot say 5-7 rounds from the en-block, can you "top-off" during a pause in action? How is this done?

DaMan

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:15:28 AM EDT

[#3]

Wigs, since time is no doubt of the essence, go here and do a little posting[url]www.jouster.com[/url]
Slasher's advice will help you avoid a dog of an M1, if you want a shooter.
If you want a collectable, you need to go beyond that, disassemble the rifle, and begin to examine each part, comparing them to the pics and charts in Scott Duff's books. His website is linked to [url]www.fulton-armory.com[/url]. The important parts to a collector (in rough order) are: Receiver(duh!), Barrel,Op Rod, Stock group, Bolt, and Trigger housing. Most of the other parts are readily available, and can be bought/swapped at leisure.
$639 actually sounds low for an all-correct Winny, but OK for a mixmaster shooter.

And it is possible to top-off an M1, although the process is slow and somewhat awkward compared to simply ejecting the partially filled clip, and inserting a new one.

Can't have too many clips if you have an M1!

Posted: 12/11/2001 5:22:55 AM EDT

[#4]

After reading this thread I'd say just follow raf's advice. One more thing, believe me, you can reload an M1 [i]very[/i] quickly - these are really cool rifles.

Posted: 12/11/2001 5:54:49 AM EDT

[#5]

Kyle-
Almost all of the M1's in the inventory the CMP is drawing from have been arsenal-overhauled at least once. I doubt those armorers paid more than passing attention to who made the parts they installed during the overhaul process, so it's not unusual to receive an M1 directly from the CMP with mixed manufacturer parts. Having said that, the M1 I got from the DCM back in the '80's has all Springfield parts. I've seen some real nice M1's from the DCM/CMP, as well as a few dogs that made Blue Sky M1's look good. If you find a good Winchester rifle, I think the price you quoted is a good one. If it has a few parts from a different manufacturer, you can do some shopping and change them out for Win. parts later. Point is, if you do find an all Winchester M1, there's no way to document that all the parts are original to that rifle.

Posted: 12/11/2001 8:33:37 AM EDT

[#6]

Thanks for all the info.

I am not really concerned about the gun having mixed USGI parts, just non GI or non USGI spec parts. I figured at that price the gun had to have been rebuilt by an armorer at least once.

Kyle

Posted: 12/11/2001 10:14:14 AM EDT

[#7]

FWIW, an M1 with a barrel that matches the date and Mfr of the receiver, and is in good shape, is worth considerably more than an M1 with a replacement, incorrect date and/or mfr bbl.
Even a properly restored M1, represented as such, is worth considerably more than a mixmaster, all things being equal.
It's a case of the whole being worth more than the sum of the parts.

Posted: 12/11/2001 11:45:49 AM EDT

[#8]

Even if its mixed and matched its worth it if the gun is in good condition, The main thing is the barrel. Everything else can be easily replaced.
Look to see if the stock is tight on the action. Also look at the lugs on the trigger gaurd. If the stock is old and oil soaked the action wont lock up tight when you put it together.
I bought one, an H&R, the other day with a perfect like new barrel. The guy who had it claimed it would not shoot very accurate. I changed out the stock and put a new trigger gaurd on the trigger housing. Now it shoots 3/4 inch at 100 yrds with lake city ball. Its a keeper but not a collector grade gun.
If you enjoy messing with old guns Garands are great. Lots of guys mess with them and most are only to glad to share there knowledge with another shooter. I myself am no expert and I always like to learn more when I can.

Posted: 12/11/2001 11:51:35 AM EDT

[#9]

Ya gotta love those HRA's.

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:07:41 PM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
I have a line on a Winchester M1 that appears to be in good to very good condition. What should I look for as far as wear and damage on the gun? How can I tell if it is a frankengun? Assuming everythng checks out what would be a fair price for it (the guy is selling it for $639)? I know CMP is cheaper, but I want a Winchester, and as I understand it, CMP does not take requests. TIA.
Kyle

View Quote

You live in Spokane don't U. If you do and it's the one at NORTHWEST COLLECTOR ARMS it's a good deal. I gave it a good look over and it's a CMP Danish WIN-13 serial 1,63 mil with its original Winchester barrel. The only Win parts are the recvr and barrel and I believe most of the trigger group. If I didn't own 3 Win M1's already I would have bought it ! I would call this M1 a shooter grade..

Posted: 12/11/2001 5:04:03 PM EDT

[#11]

What I love most about my Garand is how, at the range, it is always the center of attention. There can be a dozen guys shooting space guns and people will ignore them and come up to me to look at my M-1. Especially the older guys who carried one in WWII or Korea. They're always good for a story or two about the old days...

Matt

Posted: 12/11/2001 5:26:28 PM EDT

[#12]

... Us poorboys whom can only afford a mixmaster still praise the rifle.
Bought a "mutt" for $400. I was gonna sell and buy a CMP but the deal was in my face at the time.
I'm not really one for "value" as much as I am for quality, reliability and functionality.
I must say, for $400 this tough old ugly mutt bastard is not up for sale!

Posted: 12/11/2001 5:42:07 PM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I have a line on a Winchester M1 that appears to be in good to very good condition. What should I look for as far as wear and damage on the gun? How can I tell if it is a frankengun? Assuming everythng checks out what would be a fair price for it (the guy is selling it for $639)? I know CMP is cheaper, but I want a Winchester, and as I understand it, CMP does not take requests. TIA.
Kyle

View Quote

You live in Spokane don't U. If you do and it's the one at NORTHWEST COLLECTOR ARMS it's a good deal. I gave it a good look over and it's a CMP Danish WIN-13 serial 1,63 mil with its original Winchester barrel. The only Win parts are the recvr and barrel and I believe most of the trigger group. If I didn't own 3 Win M1's already I would have bought it ! I would call this M1 a shooter grade..

View Quote

Yes, I go to school in Spokane, but that is not the Garand I was talking about. Do you remember the price on it? It would be nice to have a back up in case someone buys the other M1.

Kyle

Posted: 12/11/2001 8:20:18 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:

I bought one, an H&R, the other day with a perfect like new barrel. The guy who had it claimed it would not shoot very accurate. I changed out the stock and put a new trigger gaurd on the trigger housing. Now it shoots 3/4 inch at 100 yrds with lake city ball. ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................NO OFFENSE. but it is hard to believe u can shoot 3/4" groups like u claim with m2 ball ammo. much less with target grade ammo from a service grade garand.they were designed to shoot 3 moa at 100.u can tighten it up about half with match ammo.....sorry i don't buy it. [shock]

Posted: 12/11/2001 8:28:36 PM EDT

[#15]

OK slasher, well you also said to look out for bent op rods. Well a *really* bent op rod is a problem caused by using heavy bullets, but the M1 op rod is supposed to be slightly bent, if it were straight it wouldn't work.

Hey, if we're gonna jump on peoples, uhhhh, stuff . . . [;)]

Posted: 12/11/2001 8:56:01 PM EDT

[#16]

Wiggins;
NWCA wants 650 $ and it's a consignment , It's the best deal on a Winchester in town. The only other Win M1 I've seen at gun shops lately is at All American Arms, It's a clunker piece of krap import BLUE SKY Winchester M1 that has a shot out barrel and some non GI Korean replacement parts for Somwhere around 600 $, I hope this isn't the one your looking at.

Posted: 12/11/2001 9:40:04 PM EDT

[#17]

I saw the one at All American Arms when I went pick up my FAL receiver, and it is $639, but not the same as the one I am looking at (which is currently in Mapple Valley). Thanks for the heads up.

Kyle

Posted: 12/12/2001 9:32:25 AM EDT

[#18]

i did not say the op rod would not be bent my friend. i said it should not hang on anything as it moves. if it does it is bent incorrectly or too high pressure powder or bullet combo is wrong!......i am well aware that op rods are bent to exact angles for best accuracy in match rifles. also they are bent to angles in standard garands. i meant if it did not move smoothly or freely in the gas cylinder.....then it is incorrect.....flame on bro.

Posted: 12/12/2001 12:49:32 PM EDT

[#19]

Slasher,
Some guys are better shooters than others.
To bad you don't live around here close so I could show how good this rifle shoots. It surprized the hell out of me when I started shooting it.
You are not the first guy who claimed BULLSHIT
when I told them about it.

Posted: 12/12/2001 2:52:21 PM EDT

[#20]

lol.......i would like to see it! trust me!but i am a highpower shooter and have standard grade and top of the line match grade m1's. and i shoot them very very well. u would have to show me with a 5 shot group prone w/o a scope to prove it to me.......are u scoping it? tell u what.....shoot 5 shots with m2 ball ammo prone on paper and send it to me.wanna try it?

Posted: 12/12/2001 3:11:57 PM EDT

[#21]

I'll try and hit the range tommorrow. It's been windy as hell the last couple of days so I might have to try this weekend. I will send you a target.
I shot my best group with it off of sandbags on a calm day. I doubt I can match that shooting prone. I don't have a scope but I am using a national match rear sight and a front sight post that is about .060"

Posted: 12/12/2001 6:44:15 PM EDT

[#22]

good for u..thx for taking the challenge..u da man!

Posted: 12/12/2001 7:09:07 PM EDT

[#23]

Thanks for all the advice, but after doing some quick math I decided that it just isn't worth it to buy the Garand from NWCA (the guy in Mapple Valley sold his this morning), because after sales tax it would cost a little over $700. The new plan is to qualify for CMP, spend a extra hundred to buy two of the Danish Garands, and then I have a new rifle and a nice father's day gift for my dad.

Thanks again.

Kyle

Posted: 12/12/2001 7:14:46 PM EDT

[#24]

Kyle, you are buying into one of the finest battle RIFLES ever made. Best of luck!
Bookmark the links above, and always remember you have friends here, too.

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