Which Gun Safe?!?!?

Posted: 12/9/2001 9:03:29 PM EDT

My wife and I are going to have our first child in a few months and while browsing the local gunshow together I noticed her examining some gun safes that one man was selling there.

I said it would be something I would like and it would be a good idea and SHE AGREED!!!!!

I didnt show my hand ( but I was jumping up and
down inside ! ) and now I am shopping for one.

I would like to hear from fellow members about their safes.

I want something pretty heavy.

I know an older man from where I used to hunt that had a nice one but someone wheeled it out of his house when he was gone on vacation.

We looked a a Browning and some others.

I do not want to pay alot for a name but I do not mind paying for quality, if you know what I mean.

Any suggestions??

Posted: 12/9/2001 10:12:43 PM EDT

[#1]

Take a look at an AMSEC Cascade. IMHO, it's the best value for your money.

Posted: 12/10/2001 5:36:34 AM EDT

[#2]

Thanks RichinCM I will do it!

Anyone else ?

Posted: 12/10/2001 6:22:23 AM EDT

[#3]

I have a Fort Knox. Whatever safe you'll get, get the biggest one you can afford. I outgrow mine in a few months.

Go here to browse.....It will give you some idea.

[url]http://www.ftknox.com/[/url]

Posted: 12/10/2001 6:23:27 AM EDT

[#4]

Look in a shotgun news in the rear and you see some ads for gunsafes. Also, checkout the more recognized gun safe's home page.

[url]www.libertysafe.com[/url]
Fort Knox
American Security
etc...

Then there are a few I found while searching for gun safes.

[url]www.deansafe.com[/url]
[url]www.swiftsafes.com[/url]

Posted: 12/10/2001 7:05:43 AM EDT

[#5]

Much of the price depends on how close you live to the manufacture of these things. I did my research three or four years ago and found that the easiest way to compare the safes was by weight. Rather than speak to brands I suggest things to look at.

Firelining - a gun in a safe if more likely to be burned up than ripped off.

Walls - most are 10 gauge steel with welded seams.

Doors - normally the stongest part of the whole safe. They are typically much thicker than the walls by a factor of 5 times or more. The number of toggles isn't as important as some would have you believe - again the door is the stongest point.

Hinges - interior ones are nice as they take out a point of attack but also take up some room inside your safe. Again the door is the stongest point.

Locks - come in two typically levels and normally are S&G. I recommend the better level III locks. I like the key pads as they're quicker to open and very simple to change the combo if that's important to you.

Size - get the biggest one you can afford or support on your floors.

Safes are nomally not "cracked" - that takes too much science. I've watched it done by professionals and they used a drilling template designed for the safe models they were opening and used a huge, heavy, drill that locked to the steel of the safe with electromagnetics and had an oil drip system built in. It took these guys hours to pop the safe.

From what I've read and been told the most common attack involves a couple three or four guys with a 5 pound sledgehammer. They beat at the top rear corners with the thing until they get a corner to crack. They insert a cold chisel and work the seams open. Then a long pry bar is worked until they can get a hand into the box and they start fishing. My safe is mounted to the wall with the left side exposed (more people are right handed) the rear of the safe is screwed to the wall studs.

Any safe can be opened with enough time and effort.

Posted: 12/10/2001 7:25:25 AM EDT

[#6]

I got the 30" one from Sam's Club.
It says Winchester on it, but is made by Granite Gun Safe.
It is fire lined and weighs 625lbs.
It cost $899. Which was about $960. out the door.
Me and a neighbor brought it in and set it in possition through obsticals on the far side of the house with no problem useing a few 16" sections of 1/2" pipe as rollers.
Not a bad looking safe at all.
I was really surprised that my wife thought it was a great idea.
I like mine.
Good luck.
Andy

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:47:50 AM EDT

[#7]

I've got a 16-gun FORT KNOX that has 18 squeezed into it. AR-RIFLE'S right about getting the biggest one you can afford 'cause you will outgrow it. It's a good solid safe though. I just wish my wife would leave me some room on the only shelf it has in it!

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:53:22 AM EDT

[#8]

just avoid any safes that lock with a key or have a combo of 3 digits or less. Kids will find keys and a 3 digit combo (not dial, but like you'd find on a brief case ) is not much of a challenge to a child. One final warning gun safes have been known to cause guns to breed and multiply, so yes get one bigger than you need.

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:54:20 AM EDT

[#9]

Fort Knox is the way to go, provided there is someone near you to deliver it for a reasonable fee (under $250-300 depending on stair situation). As far as i know they have the best fire rating at 1680 degrees for 90 minutes.

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:59:03 AM EDT

[#10]

Try Zanotti safes. These can be broken down for ease of transport with their patented Interlock(tm) design, but still highly rated.

[url]www.zanottiarmorsafes.com/specs.html[/url]

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:59:54 AM EDT

[#11]

USMC_LB,

Sorry, I forgot to post a link for you.

[url]http://www.amsecusa.com/catalog/GUNSAFE.PDF[/url]

[url]http://www.deansafe.com/amsec/cascade.html[/url]

Posted: 12/10/2001 9:59:59 AM EDT

[#12]

I have a Fort Knox 6031 set up in a 28 gun configuration.. I love it.. Check them out.. I like the keypad lock better than the dial..

later,
hawkin

Posted: 12/10/2001 11:05:02 AM EDT

[#13]

Don't forget, always have a [b]working[/b] flashlight on top of your safe. It would suck to have someone cut your power and you can't get into your safe because you can't see.

Posted: 12/10/2001 11:33:49 AM EDT

[#14]

Don't forget, always have a working flashlight on top of your safe. It would suck to have someone cut your power and you can't get into your safe because you can't see.

View Quote

ROTFLMAO!.....Funny but so true!...I'll make a note of that. [:)]

Posted: 12/10/2001 11:40:14 AM EDT

[#15]

Got a AMSEC teton 6032 555lbs., I love it more everyday. The peace of mind you get owning one, you owe it to yourself if all you have is one gun. I am still looking for something new to put in it. Now what to do with my christmas bonus humm...

Posted: 12/10/2001 11:47:57 AM EDT

[#16]

I too have a ZANOTTI, and love it!

A major beneficial factor with the Zanotti safes comes into play for those that do not have a main floor location in which to place their safes... The Zanotti comes in sections, so they can be very easily carried up or down stairs as necessary.

Here is a better link for them: [url]www.zanottiarmor.com[/url]

Posted: 12/10/2001 12:03:38 PM EDT

[#17]

7:
Don't forget, always have a [b]working[/b] flashlight on top of your safe. It would suck to have someone cut your power and you can't get into your safe because you can't see.

View Quote

DITTO!!!

I usually keep one of those round, cheesy, battery operated, plastic, POS "camper lights" mounted right over the dial on each safe.
Hey, wadaya want - they work!

I DO wish they'd make higher quality (metal) ones though.

Posted: 12/10/2001 6:02:35 PM EDT

[#18]

I'll give a second,third or whatever on the AMSEC safes. They are a real value. Everyone that has said to buy the biggest safe you can probably knows that when a safe company says that their safe holds X# of guns THEY ARE NOT TALKING ABOUT SCOPED AR's. My rule of thumb is three regular rifles(bolt actions/lever actions/shotguns) equal one AR.

Posted: 12/10/2001 6:16:04 PM EDT

[#19]

I have a Champion, made in Utah, and it is fabulous. 25 gun capacity, in theory, but the ARs do eat space. Again, get the biggest you can afford as a bigger model is ultimately cheaper than two. The Champion 25 weighs 810 lbs, beautifully finished with a bank style handle. Fire protection is 1300 degrees for 1 hour, double most safes. They offer a door mounted handgun holder that is basically a velcro door cover that comes with 5 holsters attached by the velcro. You lose no shelf space with the handguns. Further, they do not have welded edges that are suspectible to breakage with a sledge. They also have the S&G dials, with keys, not a key lock but a key lock to keep the dial from turning when locked by the key, and glass relockers to prevent drilling. Champion also has a lifetime warranty, your house burns, you pay shipping and they replace free. It gets broken into, you pay shipping and they replace free. Great product you will enjoy for a lifetime...

Posted: 12/10/2001 7:42:51 PM EDT

[#20]

I have a Cobalt. 3/8" door, 3/16" sides, top and back. 700+ pounds. It was a SOB to get in the house. Bolts all the way around. There will me no getting into it with a chisel. Its too heavy to be carried out.

I wanted a National Security. 3/4" door with 3/8" sides. 1600 lbs. $2700. It was a monster. It also had a key operated day lock.

I like my Cobalt, but the local place stopped carrying them, which sucks because I now need a 2nd.

Posted: 12/10/2001 7:53:31 PM EDT

[#21]

Give me LIBERTY or give me death!![:D]

Posted: 12/11/2001 1:19:53 AM EDT

[#22]

http://www.smithsecuritysafes.com/intro.html

Smith Safes, look on the internet. I'm pleased with mine.

Posted: 12/11/2001 4:17:50 AM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
I wanted a National Security. 3/4" door with 3/8" sides. 1600 lbs. $2700. It was a monster. It also had a key operated day lock.

View Quote

Here ya go.

[img]wsphotofews.excite.com/032/ZV/vb/Gz/g013823.jpg[/img]

Posted: 12/11/2001 4:22:34 AM EDT

[#24]

Hey! I didn't see any flashlight!

Posted: 12/11/2001 2:59:34 PM EDT

[#25]

I appreciate all the replies and tips... especially the flashlight on top

I have another question. How tough are the electronic combinations. Could someone whack it with a hammer and it not work anymore ?

Thanks Tim

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:12:58 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:
Hey! I didn't see any flashlight!

View Quote

Look again eagle eye. One is standing up in the middle and the other is to the right laying down. They are both cheap but I check them each month.

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:16:12 PM EDT

[#27]

Probably, Tim. But that could happen with a regular dial safe too. Nicer safes have got internal lockup features so when the safe door is undergoing attack, the locking mechanism freezes up and cannot be manipulated or opened period without a locksmith doing it.

I bought a Liberty eight years ago and I liked it so much I have another bigger one coming later this month. Firelining is very important, so is bolting down the safe to the floor.

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:16:38 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:
I appreciate all the replies and tips... especially the flashlight on top

I have another question. How tough are the electronic combinations. Could someone whack it with a hammer and it not work anymore ?

Thanks Tim

View Quote

If they whack it with a hammer, bye bye combo lock. Same with a dial combo though. The dial might withstand a hammer blow a little better but if they hit it once, they will hit it again and destroy both of them.

The digital combo is easily removed and is attached by a ribbon to the circuit board. If someone steals it, you can buy a replacement pretty easily.

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:30:34 PM EDT

[#29]

Are you just keeping out your future kids, and any passing dopers, or are you keeping out pros who are after your guns & diamonds & gold?

If just the kids / dopers, buy a less expensive one, and bolt it to the floor.

Go to AMSEC's site & read about the TL-15. I'd love this one, but wouldn't have any money left for guns. Plus I'm not sure it wouldn't go right thru the floor.

I got the Sam's safe this weekend. We took the door off, and brought it into the house on a furniture dolly. Watch for the ball bearings if you take the door off. We had to take it off a 2nd time coz we missed one.

Mike
[+]:D][>]:)]

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:34:42 PM EDT

[#30]

I built my own 22 gun safe for about $500. Compares well with most $2000 safes. I had been kicking the idea around in my head for years, but finallly did it last winter. Spend whatever is necessary, it will pay for itself in peace of mind.

Fred

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:45:16 PM EDT

[#31]

I have a Fort Knox with the optional fire door. Like the safe and only regret that I did not get the electronic lock. Like the others have said: Bolt the safe to the floor & buy the biggest you can afford. Remember it will be with you a long time.

Posted: 12/11/2001 3:51:22 PM EDT

[#32]

Sounds good to me. I was wanting the electronic combo but wasnt sure how it stacked up vs. a dial combo.

Now to pick one ! I will post back here once I have narrowed the candidates.

Thanks again for all the info ;)

Posted: 12/12/2001 5:03:39 AM EDT

[#33]

DO get a safe. (As big as you can.)

DO NOT get a safe from "Sportsman Steel Safe Co." in SoCal.

Absolutely the WORST customer service I've had EVER, and I'm usually not a complainer or an unreasonable person.

Posted: 12/12/2001 7:49:05 AM EDT

[#34]

Take a look at this site, they list many manufacturers and prices. I've purchased here before and they are reasonably priced.
[url]http://www.deansafe.com/[/url]

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