Being naturally cheap, I've been wondering whether it would be worthwhile to mix up a batch of Ed's Red Bore Cleaner ( [url]http://www.totse.com/en/politics/right_to_keep_and_bear_arms/eds_red.html[/url] ). Sounds a hell of a lot cheaper that Hoppe's! Anyone have any experience with it?

I've recently started using the old 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and distilled
white vinegar.

99% of the bullets that get used in my .40 are
cast lead.  When barrel leading becomes noticeable, I remove it and drop it in a shallow
bowl of the aforementioned mixture.  Within 5
minutes [b]ALL[/b] the leading is dissolved.  No
scrubbing is necessary.

Works for me.

edited 'cause of atrocious spelling.

If it will eat up lead what else will it eat up?

To my knowledge it has no effect at all on steel.  I performed a couple of amateurish tests
with the stuff.  Saturated cotton balls left on
the outer surface of the barrel for the same
duration of time show no discoloration.  If you
repeat the treatment after the barrel has been
cleaned, there is no noticeable discoloration in
the solution.  I was told it doesn't harm bluing, and I've used it on my S&W model 57
with no ill effects.  [shrugging]

Are you questioning, or do you [i]know[/i] I
shouldn't be doing this?  If I'm asking for
trouble, please let me know.  

I always figured the biggest danger was in
discarding the dirty solution.  "Liquidized" lead?

[puke]

no I was just asking as I dont know myself but I wish to clean some old .22's with a crap load of lead and if it has no adverse affects I am going to try it...if you find anything else on this subject please let me know.

[url]http://sixgunner.com/FAQ/lead.htm[/url]


Here's where I found it.  I don't know how or
why it works, but if you try it you'll be
astonished.

Like I said, I don't know if there is a [i]safe[/i] way to dispose of the used solution though.

 I've been using Ed's Red for six months or so.  It seems to work better than USGI bore solvent.  I did make one modification, I substituted MEK for the acetone.  It cuts a little faster and penetrates a little better.
 Although Ed's is not supposed to dissolve copper fouling, the use of MEK has increased its ability to penetrate to the point that it will loosen copper, along with the powder residue.

I assume that with either Acetone or MEK in the formula, you'd definitely want to keep it off any plastic parts.

MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is very similar to acetone.  Acetone is methyl methyl keytone.  One less carbon atom with its two hydrogens.

Should work very similarly.

The hydrogen peroxide/acetic acid solution shouldn't react with the steel parts of a gun to any great degree.  I would, however, rinse anything that came in contact with it pretty thoroughly with hot water.  Acetic acid, even in glacial form, isn't what you would call a powerful acid, but I'd rinse it off anyway just out of caution.  As for disposal of what little lead residue you would have in solution, if you are really concerned about it dump it into a ziplock bag full of absorbent material and seal it in an empty paint can.  When the absorbent material is completely saturated, take it to someplace that disposes of used car batteries and ask them to deal with it.  The amount of lead involved here is trivial.  One .22lr bullet fired at a squirrel puts more lead into the environment than what you'll clean out of an exceptionally filthy barrel.

Regards,

G-13

I like Ed's Red and have used it for a couple of years.  I thought it worked well and rapidly for taking out the carbon type of fouling.  It didn't seem to attack lead or copper-jacket fouling, though.

Been using it for about 4 yrs.  A very inexpensive but great carbon solvent.  Although claimed to be good for corrosive ammo, but I still run a patch of 50% 50% ammonia and H2O through my Mosins.  I soak AR, AK FAL and and other bolts and Carriers, when they get cruddy.  
A good general cleaner-solvent, however does little for copper or lead removal