Okay, first off, I bought one of these:

http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/safes/detail.asp?value=003F&cat_id=160&type_id=42732

Not exactly what I wanted, but I can get it in here without fearing that it will disappear through the wooden floor into the basement, and it's a start on what I need. The bigger one is next month, after I have a chance to have the hauling company come in and tell me what they can and can't deliver. My steps to the basement are a horror story, to make a long story short.

Anyway, I digress.

It's sitting in the trunk of my SUV, on its back, dial up currently. Tomorrow, when I de-garage it, how do I get this sucker onto the ground safely and onto the blade of a utility dolly?

Here's the rub: my right wrist is currently broken and not yet treated (doc appt. on Friday), my son is a 98 lb. weakling, and my wife is little better. The next door neighbor, while game, has no balance sense when it comes to lifting things up off of the back of trucks and putting them on the ground. Two years ago, he very nearly broke my shin with a heavy leather couch — I still have the scar.

Suggestions? Two by fours to slide it down? A piece of exterior grade plywood? A team of weightlifters? The last women's swim team of the former East Germany? Three guys rocked it into the back of the cargo area and slid it in rather neatly, off of the pallet that it had been on.

How much does the safe weigh? I can't find the weight in the mfgr's info.

It can't weigh that much, get a couple of friends to lift it out, then break out the beer.

Just did this a few weeks ago.  I used a u haul style truck ramp and a large piece of carboard.  My Dad and I were able to ease it on down the ramp and we wheeled inside no problems.

--VT

ETA:  We slid the safe down on its back.  When we got it on the ground we footed it and eased it upright and onto a dolly.  I had to go up a few steps, and used short ramps for that.  Very easy.  Hardest part was finding a stud in the wall of the closet the safe was going into.

Quoted: How much does the safe weigh? I can't find the weight in the mfgr's info.

275lbs

I once moved a heavy item [240 lb TV set] onto a sturdy pallet that was sitting on cinder blocks to get it to the appropriate height......the pallet provides places to grab onto to lower it down.

According to the literature, it's 275 lbs.

http://www.browning.agenglish.com/pages/compact.html

Oh shit, only 275?  The safe my Dad and I moved was 425lbs.  We are not big dudes, either

Last couple of times I helped move gun safes, we removed the door first.

Rent an engine hoist.  Use heavy tow straps wrapped around it like an old fashioned parcel tied with string.

Quoted: Oh shit, only 275?  The safe my Dad and I moved was 425lbs.  We are not big dudes, either

Yeah, and either of you saddled with 98 lb. weaklings or a broken wrist? I'd like to get this in the door and still be able to not have to buy a whole new leather collection for my other hand and the other side of my waistline, thank you!

I'm sorry, but I just can't help but laugh at your Stupidity errr lack of thinking about having a plan about what you are doing.

Oh and the fact you bought something you really didn't want as you are already wanting something else.

Best of Luck.

Quoted: Quoted: Oh shit, only 275?  The safe my Dad and I moved was 425lbs.  We are not big dudes, either Yeah, and either of you saddled with 98 lb. weaklings or a broken wrist? I'd like to get this in the door and still be able to not have to buy a whole new leather collection for my other hand and the other side of my waistline, thank you!

Ok, you got a broken wrist?  Am I reading this right?  I was not saddled by 98lb weaklings on either side, nor did I buy a whole new leather collection for my other hand.  I am not reading you man!

Someone post a pic of the bunny/ pancake pleaz

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Oh shit, only 275?  The safe my Dad and I moved was 425lbs.  We are not big dudes, either Yeah, and either of you saddled with 98 lb. weaklings or a broken wrist? I'd like to get this in the door and still be able to not have to buy a whole new leather collection for my other hand and the other side of my waistline, thank you! Ok, you got a broken wrist?  Am I reading this right?  I was not saddled by 98lb weaklings on either side, nor did I buy a whole new leather collection for my other hand.  I am not reading you man! Someone post a pic of the bunny/ pancake pleaz

It isn't that tough to understand. I'm seeing the hand surgeon on Friday, and I don't feel like being permanently left-handed after getting this installed.

Hire a day worker

275 is nothing, I moved 400+ safe out of my 4Runner.  Get a few pieces of carpeting, put one piece over your tailgate area so it doesn't get scratched and slide out onto second piece of carpet on ground.  Tip the safe up and  spin so you don't damage the dial on the dolly, it is an appliance dolly with straps, correct?

Quoted: Hire a day worker

That's the best plan, considering the gimped appendage and lack of help.  You don't have any friends willing to help out?  Regardless, it shouldn't be too hard to find a couple strong backs to do a few minutes work for $20-$50.

Dude, it's only 275lbs. Get a buddy to come over and help you. Me and my Dad unloaded a 600 pounder with just us two. It was a bitch, but it only took the two of us. 275lbs aint shit for 2 people. Lift with your legs and not your back and your good to go if you can get someone to help you.

I'm so glad my dad never called me a 98 pound weakling...

Lifting's not really the problem, going up or down a flight of stairs with 275 lbs could get gnarly in a hurry, especially since the OP has a broken wrist.

I still say bribe some friends with beer.  I moved my 450 lbs safe pretty much by myself, and I ain't got no broke appendages and didn't have to go up or down stairs.  I about died getting that fucker into place.

Why does it have to go in the basement? just bring it in the house.

When you get the one you really wanted to buy , put that one in the basement.

Keep this one in your home in your main living space.

Get nylon type strap from Lowes, 3" or so.  Wrap around safe and tie off to a lamp post etc... and pull ahead slow.  I'd put a mattress on the ground, the one from the master should be big enough.  

Go in reverse and then slam on the brakes. U can do the board method too with some ropes or just pay a couple of friends some beer to get it out for ya.

Whatever you do make sure you post a video.

Quoted: Whatever you do make sure you post a video.

Dibs on guns if/when this thing goes horribly wrong.

Further update:

You're gonna love this.

Well, first off, to the "98 lb. weakling" complainers, sonny boy has been malingering since Monday, when he was informed that we were going to have a week of work around here to get certain things done. I'd be more charitable, but he's into our broadband connection, sleeping late, and doing as little as possible about moving forward in life. Sorry if that chafes some of you, but that's just how it is.

Now to the issue.

We managed to get it down to the landing, dial forward, and then moved it out towards the edge of the landing, almost over the balance point, right side towards the stairs going down, and then repositioned the blade of the dolly under the left side and got it up and back far enough to start off.

I wasn't having too many problems with my wrist, the way I had it, and we went down slowly and carefully, step by step, to the bottom. The hardest part was muscling it down and fighting gravity between my wife and I, and making sure I didn't slip and squash her.

When we got it down and to the point where we wanted it, pretty much, we took the factory cardboard off the top and then the thin protective wrap, to get a look at it.

Would you believe that the damned thing has about a 1" hole in the top of it, right through the steel plate, that has the inner sealant oozed to the top, and almost out, like someone messed up and drilled a bolt hole down through the bottom of one unit and into the top of this one? It's just off the center where the diagonals from either corner would meet, towards the front.

I can't freaking believe it, after all this damned work, and I know for a damned fact that the retailer is probably going to make me liable for wrapping it back up and dragging it out of here if I want an exchange. Luckily, I paid by credit card. Tomorrow, I'm calling Browning to get the scoop on the construction of this thing, which I don't think is normal, and to see if I can suss out anything on the serial number of this one, to see if maybe it's been bounced through the system once already.

Oh, yeah, one other thing.

On Monday, when I was in the place where I bought this safe yesterday, being Tuesday, the guy that I was dealing with couldn't get the example safe out on the main sales floor open, and then, when he took a walk into the back of the store, to the stock area, he couldn't find any others — supposedly.

I'm beginning to wonder if he wasn't trying to warn me off without saying anything to me to get himself in trouble. This might get interesting.

Quoted: Quoted: Hire a day worker That's the best plan, considering the gimped appendage and lack of help.  You don't have any friends willing to help out?  Regardless, it shouldn't be too hard to find a couple strong backs to do a few minutes work for $20-$50.

Yeah and have him put it where its going to be, so when he comes back for it with 4 buddies, it'll save time.

Quoted: Strap yourself to the safe, and start walking.

 now Thats Funny !!

Gotta love people who post off the front of a thread or halfway through without reading it through first.

Yeah, oh well, it happens..

Quoted: Yeah, oh well, it happens..

Lemme catch you up, G …

::

I'm not used to spending serious gun money on stuff with holes in it, you know? Especially not when I had to about fight the damned thing to get it in the house and down the steps.

Anybody think the manufacturer is going to do anything about what looks like a factory goof? I can't believe they would turn them out like this on purpose.

Would you believe that the damned thing has about a 1" hole in the top of it, right through the steel plate, that has the inner sealant oozed to the top, and almost out, like someone messed up and drilled a bolt hole down through the bottom of one unit and into the top of this one? It's just off the center where the diagonals from either corner would meet, towards the front.

That's where the water and the explosive charge go in.

Rob

Quoted: Quoted: Yeah, oh well, it happens.. Lemme catch you up, G … img230.imageshack.us/img230/5102/holeinsafe1jr1.th.jpg :: img112.imageshack.us/img112/3599/holeinsafe2vp3.th.jpg I'm not used to spending serious gun money on stuff with holes in it, you know? Especially not when I had to about fight the damned thing to get it in the house and down the steps. Anybody think the manufacturer is going to do anything about what looks like a factory goof? I can't believe they would turn them out like this on purpose.

I seem to remember seeing many safes with a hold in the top.  I think there might be a reason for it.  

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yeah, oh well, it happens.. Lemme catch you up, G … img230.imageshack.us/img230/5102/holeinsafe1jr1.th.jpg</a> :: img112.imageshack.us/img112/3599/holeinsafe2vp3.th.jpg</a> I'm not used to spending serious gun money on stuff with holes in it, you know? Especially not when I had to about fight the damned thing to get it in the house and down the steps. Anybody think the manufacturer is going to do anything about what looks like a factory goof? I can't believe they would turn them out like this on purpose. I seem to remember seeing many safes with a hold in the top.  I think there might be a reason for it.

If you figure it out, let me know. I'm damned well confused by it. Speaking of confusing thngs, why isn't there a presence on any of the gun forums for safe manufacturers and dealers? I know of only one guy, Frank Zykan, who makes the rounds of the forums and answers questions when asked. Otherwise, it's like nobody's there. Yeah, I know, they all seem to be in Utah.

Quoted: If you figure it out, let me know. I'm damned well confused by it. Speaking of confusing thngs, why isn't there a presence on any of the gun forums for safe manufacturers and dealers? I know of only one guy, Frank Zykan, who makes the rounds of the forums and answers questions when asked. Otherwise, it's like nobody's there. Yeah, I know, they all seem to be in Utah.

Ventilation.

www.arizonasafekeeper.com/skdrirods.html

Almost all gun safes either have a plug hole in the top of the safe for venting or the moisture is forced out through the front dial. If a Dri-Rod is used in a safe with a hole in the top, the hole should remain unplugged while the rod is in operation. If the safe doesn't have a hole, the moisture will be forced out through the front dial. As the warm air moves and expands inside the safe the damp air is forced out of the safe and creates a stable environment.

Quoted: Quoted: Yeah, oh well, it happens.. Lemme catch you up, G … img230.imageshack.us/img230/5102/holeinsafe1jr1.th.jpg</a> :: img112.imageshack.us/img112/3599/holeinsafe2vp3.th.jpg</a> I'm not used to spending serious gun money on stuff with holes in it, you know? Especially not when I had to about fight the damned thing to get it in the house and down the steps. Anybody think the manufacturer is going to do anything about what looks like a factory goof? I can't believe they would turn them out like this on purpose.

Browning has a stack-on lock box that can be put onto the top of the safe. The hole is not a "goof" and is supposed to be there.

Additionally, it is used by Browning to suspend the safe at the factory during painting.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yeah, oh well, it happens.. Lemme catch you up, G … img230.imageshack.us/img230/5102/holeinsafe1jr1.th.jpg</a> :: img112.imageshack.us/img112/3599/holeinsafe2vp3.th.jpg</a> I'm not used to spending serious gun money on stuff with holes in it, you know? Especially not when I had to about fight the damned thing to get it in the house and down the steps. Anybody think the manufacturer is going to do anything about what looks like a factory goof? I can't believe they would turn them out like this on purpose. Browning has a stack-on lock box that can be put onto the top of the safe. The hole is not a "goof" and is supposed to be there.

Is it threaded?  Some are even threaded, to allow inserting an eye bolt to help with lifting.

Okay, I feel a million times better, even if I can't find the stack-on lock box on the Browning site.

I suppose, apart from ventilation, that the hole gives expansion for whatever the reactive stuff is that puffs up in case of a fire?

Quoted: Okay, I feel a million times better, even if I can't find the stack-on lock box on the Browning site. I suppose, apart from ventilation, that the hole gives expansion for whatever the reactive stuff is that puffs up in case of a fire?

I just checked the Browning site and oculdn't find the stack-on box, either.. Weird.. I saw it on a floor display at a local fun store when I was safe shopping a while back.

Quoted: Quoted: Okay, I feel a million times better, even if I can't find the stack-on lock box on the Browning site. I suppose, apart from ventilation, that the hole gives expansion for whatever the reactive stuff is that puffs up in case of a fire? I just checked the Browning site and oculdn't find the stack-on box, either.. Weird.. I saw it on a floor display at a local fun store when I was safe shopping a while back.

Lemme know if you come across it anywhere — I'm sort of curious as to what it adds to the safe's capabilities. TIA.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Okay, I feel a million times better, even if I can't find the stack-on lock box on the Browning site. I suppose, apart from ventilation, that the hole gives expansion for whatever the reactive stuff is that puffs up in case of a fire? I just checked the Browning site and oculdn't find the stack-on box, either.. Weird.. I saw it on a floor display at a local fun store when I was safe shopping a while back. Lemme know if you come across it anywhere — I'm sort of curious as to what it adds to the safe's capabilities. TIA.

It is a non-insulated, less protected, thinner-walled stack-on box which looked OK for ammo and some other stuff, but I wouldn't stick important documents or firearms in it.

Quoted: Lifting's not really the problem, going up or down a flight of stairs with 275 lbs could get gnarly in a hurry, especially since the OP has a broken wrist.

Naw, once you get it started down that first step all you have to do afterwards is get out of its way.  Getting them back up the stairs is harder.  

Quoted: Quoted: Lifting's not really the problem, going up or down a flight of stairs with 275 lbs could get gnarly in a hurry, especially since the OP has a broken wrist. Naw, once you get it started down that first step all you have to do afterwards is get out of its way.  Getting them back up the stairs is harder.

Just aim for the general direction and let 'er fly, huh?