Quoted: I use what ever oil we have in stock.. Same with the filters..
While some newer cars call for full syn. oil I would not run it in anything that has been running normal oil. Not worth it... There are a few reasons for this. First is cost. The stuff is almost twice the cost of regular oil with no real added benefits. |
Virtually no wear, zero deposits, and a 10,000 mile oil change interval (rather than the 5000 interval with non-synthetics) make synthetic at worst a dead-even expense for me. I have no way of verifying that my particular car would have more wear if it had run conventional oil instead of synthetic its whole life, but all I know is that at 112,000 miles, there are no signs of any significant wear, either from the oil analyses or from testing the leakdown rate.
As for weights.. We get people all the Fuking time.. "Do you have 15w-30?" ... "Nope we have 5w-30".. "well then I don't want it!!!"
Give me a fuking break.. Your car is not going to know the differance and you are sure as hell never going to fell it. |
Or, they may have a very good reason to do so. The engine in my car has the OEM valve train, and the cam followers are known to have a weakness when subjected to high RPM with foamed oil. With the stock lash adjusters and cam followers, the foam oil can lead to valve train hammering, which then fractures the end of the cam follower and disassembles the valve keeper hardware.
Until I change the adjusters and followers to the revised style, I am advised by competent engineers with whom I am acquainted that running a slightly thicker oil has been proven to reduce incidence of this type of damage. These engineers typically run M1 15w50 in environments where the failure is likely to occur. As a compromise for winter driving and for my somewhat less high-stress typical driving environment, I choose the M1 0w40.
One of the best filters on the market is Napa Gold. |
I have seen this too. I usually use M1 or Wix, but I think that Napa Gold is up there with Wix. Possibly the same manufacturer.
Jim