User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 12:12:14 PM EDT
[#1]
Arent they like any other brake rotor?
Remove the wheel, then remove the caliper and pads. The rotor should come right off if it is like most others. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 12:16:16 PM EDT
[#2]
If the 2500 is similar to the 1500 Silverado the parking brake is located inside the rotar hub. Remove wheel, brake hardware and make sure that the parking brake is off when you try to remove the rotor.
SBG |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 12:55:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Just found out from the manager at Auto Zone that they are pressed on and have to be pressed off. Not something you can do yourself.
Just FYI for everyone else, a lot of times you have to use two bolts in holes already threaded in the rotor to pop them off. The rear rotors don't have them because apparently they are pressed on. Thanks anyway guys...might try releasing the parking brake though now that I just picked me up some jack stands to use instead of that cheap jack that comes with the truck. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 12:58:08 PM EDT
[#4]
BS.. they're not pressed on they're just stuck a bit on the parking brakes. get the BFH and knock them off.
I work at a GM dealership. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 1:44:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Go get a BIG ASSED WHEEL PULLER!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 1:49:05 PM EDT
[#6]
The Auto Zone guy is full of shit.....
Release parking brake and smack the flat part inbetween the studs with a hammer... remove and resurface.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 4:08:46 PM EDT
[#7]
I released the parking brake and I use the BFH...rubber mallet to start with then the BFH...they're pressed on I tell ya! Even checked with a neighbor who had a different manual than the two I have and it even said the rear rotors are pressed on.
I tend to believe they are pressed on because they don't have the threaded holes to put bolts in to pop them off like the front ones. Want to know what's really screwed up? Not only can you not change the rotors yourself you can't change the rear brake pads unless you have a big azzz star wrench to losen up the bolts on the rear. The front caliber have an 18mm bolt instead. What the hell is wrong with Chevy? ...or is Ford and Dode the same? I will say one good thing about Chevy brake pads...154,000 miles and the originals are just now getting replaced. The friggin rear rotors wore down below mic before the pads wore out.  ...never had any brake dust on my rims either. Oh yeah, went to the dealership to buy the pads yesterday, they wouldn't sell me any unless I provided them with my VIN. Wasn't in the truck so I just told them how stupid they were and went to Auto Zone and was in and out with them in 10 minutes. Got the front ones on but said screw it on the rear ones. I'll just have a the Good Year shop up the street replace the pads and rotors. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 4:13:19 PM EDT
[#8]
150,000+ is insane. My Silverado eats brake pads (especially rears) like no other. I have 148,000 on a 2000 so I assume that we do about the same amount of highway driving.
SBG |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 4:22:07 PM EDT
[#9]
You can bang all day on those rotors till you're deaf,those rotors are probably the originals,with 150k on them,they're rusted onto the axle,go get a 3 leg wheel puller.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 4:22:13 PM EDT
[#10]
The dealership wanst the vin because there are 2 different kinds of rear pads for your year truck.. Can be a little hard to tell the differance.
And no.. They are NOT pressed on... I did a set of them on Monday. get a bigger hammer.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 5:16:54 PM EDT
[#11]
Document ID# 371377
1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brake Rotor Replacement - Rear Tools Required • J 2619-01 Slide Hammer With Adapter • J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit • J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit • J-46277 Rotor Removal Tool Removal Procedure You can remove the brake rotor without separating the caliper from the mounting bracket. Release the parking brake. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly. Refer to Brake Pads Replacement - Rear . Hang the caliper and mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (15 series). If the brake rotor cannot be removed perform the following: Assemble J-46277 to J 2619-01 . Insert J-46277 between the rotor friction surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place the J-46277 on the rotor friction surface. Using J-46277 and J 2619-01 remove the rotor from the hub assembly. Inspect the park brake components for the following conditions: • Bent or broken hold down spring • Broken, cracked or worn brake shoe lining • Bent or damaged brake shoe • Worn, bent or damaged backing plate If any of these conditions are found replace the affected parts. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (25 series). Installation Procedure Important: Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation. Using the J 42450-A , thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface of the hub/axle flange. Using the J 41013 , thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface and mounting surface of the brake rotor. Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining. Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (15 series). Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (25 series). Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly. Refer to Brake Pads Replacement - Rear . Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation . Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 371377 1999 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD This is from GM's SI web site that us GM techs use. Sorry the pictures did not copy. Like others have replied the rotors are rusted on or there is a rust ring built up on the inside on the rotor not letting the rotor slide by the e-brake shoe. They can be a real bear sometimes. Keep working a it, you'll get it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2006 6:25:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Sometimes a little bit of heat will help. Try to knock them off when the rotor is warm/hot.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2006 12:57:38 PM EDT
[#13]
It's about half and half. I did note that the front pads had twice as much pad left as the rear, but they were cracked and getting low themselves so I went ahead and replaced them. Stop at a local shop on the way home today and they want $175 to do the job with me providing the parts. It's not that I don't have the money, I just don't see why I should pay someone something I might be able to do myself. Think I'll try this one more time with some of the suggestions here. Hot, and with a puller. Let you guys know how it goes this weekend, maybe sooner. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2006 1:03:05 PM EDT
[#14]
New rotors aren't that expensive, and the factory rotors are made out of recycled Hot Wheels probably anyway. Any factory GM rotor I have handled since 1995 has been thin junk.
Take a shop hammer, beat the frigging things off, and put some good aftermarket rotors on. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
