BFU. Bump for update.
Sunday PM I put in the bigger version, the riflelocker.
Nominally, it’s just a larger scale cutout of the gunlocker I slapped in so easily after work.
However, several factors complicated my particular installation. First, it’s designed to go in a closet wall, a bedroom closet wall. So the difference between my wife’s tolerance for drywall dust in a downstairs hallway with hardwood floor was found to dramatically differ from her dust tolerance in our bedroom. Note to others, get the clothes AWAY from the cutting area, do this when you have an hour to work and an hour to clean up.
Second, I lined our closets with cedar plank before we moved in. I just finish nailed it to the drywall, which didn’t hold well enough when I used the reciprocating saw, so I splintered and split a few planks. Then I got smart, nailed all the edges to the studs I was using to secure the safe, and used a worm drive saw to neatly trim the opening.
Third, it’s 110 lbs, and it will take a minimum of two complete lifts into position, one to mark the lag holes for securing it and one to actually fix the safe to the opening. Given my experimentation with cedar planking, it was not as easy to cut along the studs as if you’re just cutting drywall. Call it 4 lifts before it would fit, then a last lift to secure it. That was a tough exercise by myself, but by the time I realized I was having trouble, the room was toast and I needed to get it done. In a conventional closet, there probably won’t be that much room for another guy to lift, but if I did it again, I’d have another guy available.
After fixing it in place, I cleaned up the room, and then played with it. There is a TON of room in there, it is about 59" top to bottom. Inside is felt lined like the smaller version. It comes with a metal shelf that can be placed anywhere and a foam rubber “top rack” to secure the barrel end of whatever you put in there. It’s optimistically cut out to hold about 8 long guns, 3-4 is much more like it, and only non PG longarms in anything like that quantity. The rubber rack has little velcro spots to “secure” it to the back of the unit, pretty flimsy, but adequate. Mine currently houses my M1S90, standard stock, and a bushy carbine. One pistol on the door holster, one bushy mag, 5 glock mags, 5 boxes of buck on the shelf. Next to the longarms is a bando of mixed shotty ammo. And there’s a Seecamp in there, too. If I had/made another shelf, I could easily put a lot more in there.
The guy who loaded it for me tossed in a couple velcro holsters that can be put on any lined surface of any of the units, I put one on the back wall of the small one and one on the door of the big one. They are minimal holsters, elastic that covers about 2.5 inches of the trigger guard area. They hold the weapons securely.
Setting the code was per instructions.
Locking mechanism is a single pin about 1/4 inch on the three non hinged door sides. They move about ½ inch to secure the door. To operate, enter the code, the pad lights up when you touch it, and spin the doorknob type deal and the pins retract and stay retracted until you turn the knob the other way. One thing, the solenoid only clears the knob to turn for about 3-5 seconds, miss the time frame and you need to reenter the code. The door is pretty heavy, but stays open, or in pretty much any position you leave it. As with the smaller unit, there is a barrel key that will override the lock.
And as with the smaller one, I did this to secure them from kids, my kid in particular, so any theft prevention is a bonus, as previously, they were just sitting on the top shelf of the closet. Certainly they are more secure than a sheet metal cabinet.
I recommend these products highly, my only complaint is that the velcro on the rubber top rack could be more secure, or even if the molded a bit of metal in the rack, it would have more substance.