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Posted: 2/2/2006 6:42:46 AM EDT
[#1]
I'd check the plug wires first. Compare the resistance (ohms) from coil to spark plug for each, while looking for one or two that has far more resistance than the others. If it'll skip when it's in park, but giving it gas, you can try to look for arcing at night or in a dark garage. An arcing plugwire will be the one that shows high resistance, 99.99% of the time. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 6:46:34 AM EDT
[#2]
no mechanic but my suggestion...
sell it |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:16:49 AM EDT
[#3]
It doesn't skip at all while in park. Only when I press the accelator. But I will check the spark plug wires when I get home though. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:20:13 AM EDT
[#4]
It doesnt have plug wires. Its got a coil on plug ignition.
Have you ever tuned it up? I'd replace the plugs and fuel filter first. Thats starting cheap and its good normal maintenance anyhow. Oh yeah, check for broke boots on the coils when you have 'em off. Make sure you have some time and patience. YMMV, Worth what you paid for it :) ETA: Napa sells an 8 pack of coil boots. Its just best to replace 'em when they're off. Its a pain in the ass to change plugs on it. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:25:34 AM EDT
[#5]
What make you think EGR valve ?
If the EGR valve is bad and stuck open it should have a rough idle or cut out when slowing down. The engine light coming on means it store a code. Call around and find a Parts Store that will pull the codes for free and then check Chiltons for the code troublshooting tree. If you cant find a store to pull the code for free buy a checker. Sounds more like fuel, tune up or clogged exhaust problem. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:27:38 AM EDT
[#6]
I had a similar problem just a couple weeks ago. I poured some gas treatment in the tank whatever they sell at Costco, and the problem vanished and hasn't returned.
As the owner of a late model Expedition, my advice is sell it and buy a Toyota. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:36:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Sounds like fuel to me as well... clogged filter or bad tank of fuel. At 106k changing the plugs and boots is definately a good idea as well.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:39:55 AM EDT
[#8]
A COIL WENT BAD. $250.00 at the ford dealer. I've had 2 replaced in my 01 f150 crew cab with the 4.6 litre V-8. One at 35,000 miles and last week at 107,000 miles. You notice it most when accellerating. The first time I got it to the garage for repair as soon as I noticed it. The second time,I had to drive about 100 miles before I got to the shop at about which time the "check engine" light came on
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:40:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Any trouble codes displayed?
I would think that an engine misfire bad enough to shake the vehicle would set a code. Possibly something in the drive train / running gear? |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:42:11 AM EDT
[#10]
Fixed it for you 
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:45:24 AM EDT
[#11]
It could be. Note however, that the dealer is a lousy place to go for parts. How about a Genuine Ford Parts ignition coil for $66.03, brand new? Dig it. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:48:08 AM EDT
[#12]
You may want to try this...Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forum
www.ford-trucks.com/ |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 7:51:18 AM EDT
[#13]
Yeah Subnetmask, I quit working on cars when they went to electronic ignitions and a match book became obsolete to set the points.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:01:06 AM EDT
[#14]
Hey, where's the fun in that?  Anymore, I don't trust anybody but yours truly to work on a vehicle. I rationalized taking new cars to the dealer by saying "I don't have time to deal with it, and my time is valuable" and such. The real reason was I didn't understand modern cars. After getting screwed over TIME AND TIME AGAIN, I decided that enough was enough. So I learned. I HATE saying that I don't know how to do something, so I learned. Nowdays there are forums for every vehicle imaginable. You have instant access to some really bright mechanics from all over the country, who give advice free of charge. Wow! This wasn't the case 5 or 6 years ago. The internet has really changed things. BTW, I always used a proper feeler gage and dwell meter, not a matchbook. 
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:04:43 AM EDT
[#15]
Cross_Steel: You know, it really could be a coil. After reading around a bit, it seems that alot of folks have the exact same symptoms you describe at a similar mileage, with a new coil resolving the problem.
I'm trying to thing of a way to test the coil. Do you have a digital VOM? |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:05:20 AM EDT
[#16]
F-150 Online
Good site. There are no plug wires. You should have coil packs on top of each plug. And plugs are a BITCH to change. It can be done but it's a pain. It is pretty costly to have it done at a shop. Again, F-150 Online has lots of info. and a good article on changing plugs. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:05:23 AM EDT
[#17]
Had the spark plugs replaced at 70K along with the fuel filter, belts, and transmission fluid and filter(also changed at 35K) . Currently there is a little under a half tank of gas. Ran fine the first half of the tank. What makes me suspect the EGR is, years ago I had an S-10 that did the exact same thing. I replace either the oxygen sensor or the EGR and it went away.
I can borrow one. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:06:16 AM EDT
[#18]
Better get one while they're still makin' 'em. Don't bother with the extended warranty, GM won't be around that long. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:07:53 AM EDT
[#19]
Testing them is quite difficult. When I was having trouble I found that the best way to test them, unfortunately, was to take it to a dealership and have them run computer diagnostics on it, specifically testing the coils. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:09:07 AM EDT
[#20]
I have been in a car that shuddered on acceleration because of loose lugnuts on one wheel, but that shouldn't make the check engine light come on. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:11:52 AM EDT
[#21]
Changing Plugs
Assuming it is a 5.4L. Not sure if the others are similar. You have to take the coils off to change the plugs. You can try testing them then, the repair manuals available at parts stores have instructions. I found it dificult to tell good from bad except the one that was 100% toast. Fuel Filter Replacement Always a good, cheap tune-up item. You will need a tool to get the filter off. They have them at auto parts stores for under $10, usually. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:13:05 AM EDT
[#22]
Common issue with those engines. If cmpanies are going to design things with more points of failure, they need to make sure they use that much more quality parts. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:19:10 AM EDT
[#23]
Mine did something similar a coupla years ago. Same truck, motor and all.
Instead of nickel and diming it out over several days/weeks. I dropped into a shop and handed over a $50. They ran their diagnostics and found the problem. Turns out the coil pack on the #1 cylinder was goin' out. Another $50 at the parts store, 2 bolts and I was back in business. I'm all about doing it yourself, but I'm pretty sure it would have taken way more than 2 hours and a benny to fix it. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:19:43 AM EDT
[#24]
Damn, the coils are actually relatively easy to replace. And at about $50 each I think you should try next time. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:21:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Broken/loose motor mount is definitely another option to look at. You may be able to tell based on the "feel" of the shake.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:27:45 AM EDT
[#26]
Demons have possessed your truck. Look at the post number of your first post.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:30:38 AM EDT
[#27]
LOL.  Then I'm out of luck there are no Catholics down my way only Baptist preachers in polyester.
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:56:11 AM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 2/2/2006 8:56:40 AM EDT
[#29]
I had this happen after I had my heater core replaced, or at least somting similar.
In my case one of the heater hoses was leaking coolant into the sparkplug well for cylinder 4. This shorted out the plug and made it misfire and shake. I am still trying to get it all worked out, but just blowing out the water after I tightened the hose helped a lot. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:18:46 AM EDT
[#30]
I just found out something at lunch. My local Autozone has a computer there there they can hook up and get the "Error Code" since my check engine light came on. And they'll do it for free!
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:24:16 AM EDT
[#31]
Hooray! A starting point!
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:48:08 AM EDT
[#32]
You've got at least one bad ignition coil. The good news is, the price dropped below $100. The (really) bad news will come if you have it replaced by a shop.
Let me guess, you had the plugs changed in the last 10000 miles or so, and recently drove through some heavy rain and/or deep puddles for the first time after the work. This is a recurring problem on my truck and it is starting to piss me off. Ford doesn't have an answer, just a shrug. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 9:53:16 AM EDT
[#33]
I should have mentioned that, too. They can't always read everything but it's a good (cheap) start. |
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Posted: 2/2/2006 1:50:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Did you replace the EGR valve ? If the troubleshooting tree said it was bad , Id replace it. If it is bad your done but its still possible it is not causing your troubles even though its bad. When is the last time the plugs were pulled ? Have they ever been touched ? |
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Posted: 2/6/2006 5:55:15 AM EDT
[#35]
The #7 coil was corroded. Replaced it now in runs great again. Thanks everyone for the help.
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