It's Always Fair Game for Wild Pigs
Peter DaSilva for The New York Times
IN SIGHT Michelle Straub draws a bead on a wild pig in Northern California.
By PATRICIA LEIGH BROWN
Published: September 30, 2005
HOPLAND, Calif.
MICHELLE STRAUB knows what it is like to feel deeply and profoundly nervous. Just hearing the grunts of wild pigs behind shrubs, the rustle of grasses signaling they were near, made her knees shake and her French-manicured nails quiver on the trigger. Only she knows the true terror of the heart that comes from holding a 7-millimeter rifle while bushwacking down steep trails made by potentially ferocious marauding wild pigs and having your husband turn to you to say, "I think I hear something."
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Peter DaSilva for The New York Times
WATCH OUT Wild pigs have become traffic hazards as well as environmental pests in California. This sign is on Highway 1 in Carmel.
Her quarry in these golden Mendocino hills was Sus scrofa, a squat, muscular wild boar with coarse dark hair, hairy ears, a thick armor-like hide and skewers for tusks, which is now overrunning the countryside to become the latest plague of California.
Along with states like Texas, Florida and Hawaii, California has become a prime habitat for pigs, so much so that the state Department of Fish and Game has begun offering advanced wild boar hunting clinics to encourage people like Mrs. Straub, a 29-year-old executive secretary from Santa Rosa, to hunt pigs.
The pigs are a nonnative hybrid species that can run up to 25 miles an hour and whose meat is prized by cooks - Mrs. Straub and her husband, Randy, among them. They flourish in all but two counties of the state, and their moonlit sashaying in search of grubs and acorns along Highway 1 near Carmel has become so treacherous to motorists that the state Department of Transportation put up "Pig Xing" signs last year.
This is California in the cross hairs: a maddening pig Interstate where zigzaggy pig trails lead into dense, burr-ridden canyons, and trampled grasses indicate where pigs have been and gone.
"You think of little domestic pigs at the county fair as pink and cute with a curly tail," Mrs. Straub said. She hired Tim Lockwood, a hunting guide from Santa Rosa, to help her unleash her inner Annie Oakley at 5 a.m. one recent Sunday on a 1,252-acre private ranch. "These pigs are not cute."
In a sense, Mrs. Straub and her pork-loving brethren are ground troops in an escalating war between man and beast. Although culinary politics here lean more toward organic broccoli than firearms, wild pigs are regarded as fair game by state fish and game officials, who have declared a 365-day open season on pigs, with no bag limit. Wild pigs, prolific breeders, can double their population every four months, causing environmental havoc. The fish and game department puts the population at 100,000 to 250,000 statewide.
With this year's long rainy season in many areas expected to yield a bumper crop of acorns - the French Laundry for pigs - the situation looks dire. Already, a large herd from Mount Diablo State Park, just east of Oakland, has gravitated to the prized 15th hole at the nearby Blackhawk Country Club for water.
"It looks like someone took a large roto-tiller to it," said Larry Marx, the general manager, who has installed antipig fences and was particularly peeved by the pigs' choice of the 15th, a well-known long par five.
Last spring, Paul Slemmons, a 51 year-old import-export shipper from Los Gatos, near San Jose, bought a "How to Build a Wild Hog Trap" CD-rom on the Internet after a pig ravaged his mothers' sweet peas. He built a trap, baited it with molasses, corn and oats and with help from an off-duty policeman held a barbecue for 50 friends.
Mr. Slemmons, though, still has mixed feelings about it. "I can kill a bug or an ant," he said. "But killing an animal is another thing."
The feral California pigs are descended from swine brought by Spanish and Russian explorers in the 1700's and wild European boar imported in the 1920's. Other types of wild pigs, including a peccary known as javelina, are found across a swath of the South, and wild pigs' range has expanded as far north as Oregon.
"Hunters are part of the problem because they sometimes intentionally disperse pigs," said Reginald H. Barrett, a professor of wildlife management at the University of California, Berkeley. "But they are also part of the solution because legal sport hunting literally is the only thing keeping pigs under control."
Wild pigs are considered a game animal in California, but their meat may not legally be sold or served in restaurants because the animals haven't been slaughtered in government-inspected facilities. They are the game animal most likely to charge you - a fact not lost on Mrs. Straub. A special license is required to hunt them.
Many environmentalists in California regard them as little more than hairy four-footed weeds. Indeed, the Nature Conservancy, is trying to eradicate up to 5,000 pigs on Santa Cruz Island, 19 miles off the coast of Ventura, to protect 10 endangered species.
At an advanced wild boar hunting clinic held recently at a gun club in Sonoma, some 50 hunters - all men - sat rapt as Doug Updike, a senior wildlife biologist for the state who was wielding a red pointer, spoke of "pig opportunities," including "a slight musk that's undeniably pig." Wild pigs, he noted, possess a keen sense of smell, requiring a hunter to stay downwind, but their eyesight is poor. "They're intelligent animals," he told them. "Compared to a wild turkey, they're Einsteins."
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Peter DaSilva for The New York Times
HER FIRST Michelle Straub, who has been hunting since she was a child, killed her first pig this summer. Much of it went into the freezer.
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Angelo Garro, a Sicilian-born wrought-iron artist and forager who is revered by San Francisco foodies as a cook and bon vivant, waits to hunt in fall, when the pigs binge on acorns. He describes the meat, which he roasts on a spit with wild fennel, rosemary, red peppercorn and olive oil, as sweet and slightly gamey. "You don't do it to kill," he said. "You do it to have an experience in the outdoors. Then you share what you've got with family and friends, an incredible sensuous meal like you sometimes see in Italian movies."
Mrs. Straub, a mother of two boys, got her license at age 8 to hunt pheasant and duck with her father. She'd hunted deer before, but never pigs. "I wouldn't wake up and say, 'Oh, I think I'll go hunting today,' " she said. "But I do it for me. It's a sense of accomplishment. It's nice to be out here and to be able to hunt with the best of them."
Hunting together, Mr. Straub added, makes their relationship stronger. "Marriage is a two-way street," he noted, walking behind his rifle-toting wife. "This gives me a lot more patience at the factory outlet."
Around 7 a.m., following Mr. Lockwood, Mrs. Straub stood poised on a steep ridge overlooking a canyon, the dun-colored hills furrowed like batter. From afar, she could see muddy wallows - spas for pigs. Mrs. Straub's adrenaline kicked in when she glimpsed "the bump of a pig back and one arm pit."
But her sense of optimism was plummeting as the sun rose. Just as she was about to quit, her husband spotted a group of pigs about 80 yards away rooting beneath a madrone tree. Mrs. Straub took the safety off her rifle, spotted a pig in her cross hairs, took a deep breath and - somewhat to her astonishment - bagged her first pig, which weighed 100 to 120 pounds.
She would leave the gory details to her husband and Mr. Lockwood. The Straubs brought home their booty in their white pickup, freezing much of it but sharing some with family. Days later, Mrs. Straub was back in her cubicle at work, still zonked from scurrying up and down pig trails, relishing the freedom she'd felt, so different from typing budget reports. Her sense of triumph persisted and her pork politics remained clear. "I don't believe in killing animals for recreation," she said. "But if you use them as game, that's what the cycle of life is all about."