Does anyone here form there own Kydex items? Im looking to make same mag holders and maybe a few knife sheathes.

If So do you have any advice or a link to a site that explains a how to for a new do it yourselfer?


Also where is a good place to get more supplies? I lucked out on a press someone wanted gone and got some kydex, rivets and chicago screws with it, but I will need more Im sure.

This is one place to buy the stuff, and they have pretty good instructions too.

Basically, you need Kydex, a knife, a heatgun, some means to mold it ( stiff foam and a vice).

It's super easy


Texas Knifemaker's Supply.
www.texasknife.com

Quoted: Does anyone here form there own Kydex items? Im looking to make same mag holders and maybe a few knife sheathes. If So do you have any advice or a link to a site that explains a how to for a new do it yourselfer? Also where is a good place to get more supplies? I lucked out on a press someone wanted gone and got some kydex, rivets and chicago screws with it, but I will need more Im sure.

Kydex basics

Google is your friend !

Quoted: Google is your friend !

No its not. Ive spent several hours trying to get past all of the knives w/ kydex sheaths or the buy my book to learn how ads (which your link is). Why buy a book when the info is outthere for free. If I can cut metal and make a 1911 frame and an AR lower I theink I can handle heating and bending some plastic. Besides I dont have time to wait for a book to get here. I want to play now!

Thanks for the info and here is a how to I found on knifeforums for futer referance. Time to go mold some kydex

ETA: Opps i was goingto quote the post but it is copyrighted and I dont want there to be issues between the two forums. Just see the link above.

ETA2: None copyrighted info from above link.

Originally posted by Zog Here @ Knifeforums.com Now, for some simple instructions:I use very simple tools. When I first started I was told that I needed really complicated and expensive ones, but you don't. What I use: A Dremel Tool, with cutoff wheels, sanding drums, and a small spherical cutting bit. A drill. A heat gun. A stove. Whatever sheath coating you want to use (leather, rubber, etc.). Chicago Screws and Mil-Spec Paracord. (Plus safety glasses, thick cotton gloves, an apron, a well-ventilated workspace and a dust and fumes mask.) First, preheat your oven to 300 degrees. Take a sheet of paper and fold it down the middle. Trace the knife onto the sheet on the center with half of the bolster on the paper, giving yourself a full inch around the knife as you outline it, so when you open the sheet, you have a mirror image on each side of the blade outline. Kydex shrinks as it heats up, and it never hurts to be careful. Cut out the paper, then tape it to your Kydex. Use the cutoff wheel of your Dremel to cut out the shape of the paper. Be sure to wear your mask, eye protection and gloves through the process! Take this cut out piece, and put it in the oven on a flat cookie tray, rough side down. Let it heat up for 5 - 6 minutes. If you cook it too long it will shrink into a solid block. Before you take the heated Kydex out, get your "press" ready. You can use a couple of boards with molding foam epoxied on the inside, or a couple of phonebooks with towels in between them,whatever you can find. Have your press set up, and your knife handy, and take the hot Kydex and wrap it around the knife like a taco, making sure that the spine is right down the center of the Kydex, and enough of the kydex is below the bolster to grip it. Then press the Kydex around the knife using your press. After you've pressed it for a while, and allowed it to cool while pressed (takes several minutes). Take your knife wrapped in Kydex out, and test how tight it is. If it's too tight, use your heat gun to allow the Kydex to release a little. If it's too loose, find where it's too loose, and use your heat gun and well gloved hands to mold it more tightly. The really hard part is getting the tension right on the sheath's retention around the guard. You need to figure out how to mold the Kydex around the guard or bolster in such a way that it allows the knife to snap in and out of the sheath, and still allow enough tension not to let the knife ever fall out. If you're using really thick Kydex (.125 or .093), you may find the small spherical cutting bit necessary on the Dremel to create the proper tension. Now, cut off the excess Kydex (if your kydex was hot enough you've got a sealed seamless edge on your sheath). Drill holes wherever you want to put your tensioning and fastening Chicago Screws (or rivets, or whatever else you want to use). Sometimes, the screws will be what it takes to make your tension exactly right. Now, sand the edges of the sheath as necessary with the sanding drum to smooth them out. Next step is to laminate your sheath with leather or coat it with whatever substance you'd like (make sure it will bond with plastic). If you're gluing anything to kydex I recommend E900 craft epoxy (you can find it in craft stores or even in Wal-Mart's craft section). It bonds very well and stays flexible even after it dries.

Quoted: Quoted: Google is your friend ! No its not. Ive spent several hours trying to...yada, yada,yada...

Pardon me ! I won't bother you anymore as I can see you already know it all.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Google is your friend ! No its not. Ive spent several hours trying to...yada, yada,yada...   Pardon me ! I won't bother you anymore as I can see you already know it all. img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/wetidlerjr/speedbanana.gif

You are pardoned.

I appreciate the effort but a book isnt what I was looing for. Especially since Ive already started forming some with the Info I got off the Net.

This stuff is just to easy to be able to fill a book with.

Kydex can be molded in many different ways. A Foam press is the easiest way for DIY. If you buy 4x8 sheets of kydex you can save a few bucks per square foot, but then the freight will get you if you only buy one or two sheets. If you can get it for less than $4 psf buy it asap. Plastic is going to go up in price very soon.

I use a cookie sheet and place the kydex in the oven for a few minutes at 350. It does start to smell so having a good range hood is a must. Be sure that you place the unfinished side facing down. The side with the texture will start to stick and stretch as you try to remove it. If you are molding small items, a heat gun could do it, but you must keep moving it around so that it doesn't blister or burn the kydex. I use a heat gun for extra bends or to remove tightness around the mold.

My press is sold at knifekits.com as well as other knife kit websites. However, as long as you can get the kydex into the press before it starts to cool off too much, it doesn't matter what press you use so long as it’s rigid and the foam is able to flex around the mold. I have noted that its better to cut off more kydex than needed for the mold since things don't stay in place all the time. Also, Quick clamps works really well for foam presses.

You can cut it by scoring one side with a box knife, and then bend and break through. I score the side with the finish and allow the unfinished side to break. A good square and some quick clamps will aid you while cutting. After your done molding, it best to rivet it together before you start cutting off any extra. Keep whatever you molded inserted while you mark the holes for the rivets. A drill press is a great idea. There are also drill bits that knife kit sites sell that are great for drilling kydex, but any good bit will get the job done.

A belt sander is next on my “to get list.” In fact, I am planning on getting one later today. So that I can finish some kydex molds.

You’re going to have to just play around for a while, and you'll start to think of better ways. Molding Kydex is like working with a puzzle.

Lets see some pics!