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Posted: 8/15/2005 5:56:38 AM EDT
[#1]
Make sure you build it on your property.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 5:58:23 AM EDT
[#2]
Gotcha, and I am checking today with local ordinances about how far on my side from the property line it has to be. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:00:47 AM EDT
[#3]
Check also to see if they have height restrictions. And, if you live in a neighborhood with a HOA, make sure it is kosher with them. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:09:30 AM EDT
[#4]
HOA? Why would there be height restrictions? |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:17:53 AM EDT
[#5]
Home Owners Association. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:24:44 AM EDT
[#6]
oh, lol. No, I can rest assured that that won't be an issue. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:31:18 AM EDT
[#7]
Make sure the poles and cement get bellow the frost line. Prob. not an issue in AL.
I used pressure treated poles and a bottom kick plate then did spruce fencing from Home Depot on the top. Keeps the spruce from rotting fast. Also allows you to keep the fence level while the kickplate follows the conture of the ground. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:32:03 AM EDT
[#8]
Check and see if you can get a land use permit to PUT THE FENCE ON THE PROPERTY LINE!! |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:33:55 AM EDT
[#9]
I'm going to be in this boat soon as well. How about the new vinyl fencing? Any experiences there? I'm in central FL along the cost, so weather resistance is important to me.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:37:54 AM EDT
[#10]
if it is not level ground may want to buy single pieces of fencing and not the paneling fence.
vinyl fencing,i read that it gets brittle after time and break easy. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 7:11:58 AM EDT
[#11]
It might be in the zoning regs. Some areas restrict the height of a fence so as you are not able to block sunlight, etc. from your neighbor. As I said, check first, build second. You do not want to build a fence only to be told to tear it down later. I have seen that happen. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 7:28:06 AM EDT
[#12]
well if I could I would make my fence concret and have it 10feet high and 3 feet thick
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Posted: 8/15/2005 7:45:31 AM EDT
[#13]
That's correct. I have seen that myself. Nothing like paying for a fence twice. Lots of places restrict fences to six feet. It is to limit the number of fights between neighbors. It is not unknown for people to try to build fences that block their neighbors view or light, just out of spite. You can get around the height restriction sometimes if the fence is built on a raised foundation or on top of a wall. Or, you can plant some kind of vine, maybe with thorns, that will push the height of the fence even higher. Nothing should keep you from planting trees by the fence, either, for more privacy. If you really want privacy, in lots of places overseas, the locals embed broken glass in the top of the wall to keep out intruders. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 7:52:47 AM EDT
[#14]
ETA: My motive is to muffle the neighbor's barking dogs which choose to let us know they see us every time we turn on a light in the house in the middle of the night.
In other words, I'm thinking that killing their line of sight of our windows and placing a barrier to muffle their incessant barking might make some difference. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:02:21 AM EDT
[#15]
Killing their line of sight is a good idea. Don't expect the fence to do much about the noise, though. A big brick wall and trees will do better, but it would probably have to extend farther than 20 feet. If they can still hear you, or sense you, the barking might just continue. Have you talked to the neighbors about the barking? Dogs can be trained out of it. If the neighbors aren't cooperative, you can always play the barking back to them, or other creative tactics. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:08:42 AM EDT
[#16]
Check out this thread from a couple weeks ago. Some good points in there.
 www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=371538 |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:31:14 AM EDT
[#17]
Thanks for the link. And yes, I have spoken to them about their dogs barking. They said they would handle it but they haven't. They are friends with the local PD so I'm not even going to waste my time with that, and apparently Nyquil causes excitability in dogs just as much as children when administered in the middle of the night. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:32:58 AM EDT
[#18]
When I built mine in a non frost zone I used about a bag of cement per hole (I think). I pounded long nails in the bottom of the posts so they stuck out, anchoring them in the cement. I put some gravel in the bottom of the hole, I forget how much, at least a few inches, then the post, then the cement. I think I made the hole 2 1/2 feet deep. The poles were 6 feet tall. The fence sections were also 6 feet tall but the poles do not have to go all the way to the top, the fence sections were attached to the poles by their vertical rails.
I did it on the cheap when I lived in a trailor park to protect my dogs and privacy from neighbor brats. It held up during the storm of the century windstorm so I guess I did OK. A couple of the posts warped after a few weeks, I don't know if there is anything you can do to prevent that, it's happened on a deck I had built once also. A pump air rifle or sling shot will aid in "training" the dogs to shut up. It sucks to have to do but some people will not control thier dogs. It's not neccassary to cause injury, just a sharp sting. After awhile all you will have to do is ping a pellet off of a nearby object. After awhile all you will have to do is step outside. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:37:25 AM EDT
[#19]
if you dont have one, rent a nail gun! i decided to save money and not use one when rebuilding my moms fence after hurricane Ivan. bad idea. i just built a fence at my house, and with the nail gun it took only a few days. also, dont get lazy with the concrete for the posts.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:38:08 AM EDT
[#20]
Extra tall and sturdy.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:42:36 AM EDT
[#21]
I am about to build one myself!
 Have you looked in to Concertina wire?  BigDozer66 |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:45:34 AM EDT
[#22]
We had an issue with nails working their way out of the boards after a couple of years. The next fence we built didn't have a single nail in it; we used deck screws. While putting up the boards we would just anchor each board in place with two screws - one at the top and one at the bottom. When all the boards were in place, we put more screws in every board.
It took longer to build and cost slightly more, but the damn thing was like a rock. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:48:04 AM EDT
[#23]
One more thing, if you build it right on the property line, make damn sure you are not over the line at any point of the fence. I personally like building them a foot or so off the line just to have a little breathing room.
Regarding that other side of the fence, make sure the neighbor is going to be cool with you going on his side of the property line (if necessary) for any repairs, ground upkeep or stain/paint.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:53:26 AM EDT
[#24]
I'm probably going to go two feet just for good measure. I'm going to get the low-down from the city zoning laws first though to be sure. The neighbor is cool with us and everything, they just won't take care of their @#$% dogs. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 9:01:59 AM EDT
[#25]
Don't put spacers between the pickets. Cedar and treated pine will both shrink a little and leave a little gap between the pickets. If you use a spacer, such as a nail, to start out with a gap between each picket gap will be bigger than you may want after the shrinkage.
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Posted: 8/15/2005 4:34:58 PM EDT
[#26]
Which wood is the best type to use?
 Is the 8' boards better to use than the 6' ones? I would think so because I can see over the 6' ones! BigDozer66 |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 8:20:16 PM EDT
[#27]
I forgot to mention, I also used deck screws. I didn't really have to use very many but it was strong. They were long, I had to drill pilot holes but it wasn't that much trouble. I origionally started using them cause I was pretty much building it myself and it was easier to do it like that than hammer it together myself. |
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