I am rebuilding a powerhead off a Merc 115hp inline 6. This is a 1974 model. Man those gaskets are freaking baked on the surfaces. How do I get that stuff off? I have tried scraping with a razor blade to no avail. I don't want to damage the surfaces, but really don't want to spend 6 days on it either. Whats the secret. I should have listened to my AR-15 brothers when they toldme about boats & holes in the water..... I really like to mess with things though..
Scott

Try "gasket remover", I forgot the brand name but thats what its called. Its like easybake oven cleaner, the cans blue.

use a wiz wheel and an air compressor if you have one. they sell special pads for it that won't damage the metal.

Use both from above.

The gasket remover is kinda like Carb clean (at least the stuff I used).

The wiz wheel is AWESOME. I got the ones made by 3M. They basicly their Scotch Brite pads that stick to a small disk, that you chuck into an air tool, or a drill. Spin-er-up and go to town! Produces a nice shiny smooth surface when done.

Worse case, skip the razor blade and get a putty knife. Bigger handle and it flexes. Still have to worry about gouges.

I have used the gasket romover products in a spray can and they do work but if the item is painted and any gets on the paint it will remove that too. I have been using a painte remover jell called Tal-Strip because its much cheaper than the purpose made gasket removers and since you brush it on you have more control over it and it will soften and remove gaskets in about 5 minutes time. Just spread it on, wait and scrape or wipe the remaining goo off. Do wear some gloves though because it will give some nasty chemical burns.

I have power head completely disassembled. The gasket material is just freaking stuck to the surfaces like you never saw. Where do I get a wiz wheel? Is that the brand name? I have air & drill access. I tried the gasket remover spray. It helped get some off, but I have morelike a residue with some high spots. I really need the wiz wheel now I think. Those pistons will burn a hole in your wallet in a second. I only needed 2, but that was $140 wholesale. The rest of the rebuild kit was $140 more (gaskets, some bearings, impeller etc...)
Scott

It's a 3-m abrasive disc but be damn careful on aluminum. keep it flat and moving. another trick is use a propane torch and carefully burn it off.should be used on a die grinder. the higher speed is needed.

Gum cutter works well also. Just spray it on and let is soak. Should scrape right off. If not you will need the 3m abrasive wheel, just make sure you get the correct one that will not gauge or scar the metal surface.

I'm not familiar with your particular engine but I do work as a mechanic on cars. The "whiz wheel" is the way to go. A good Auto parts or Auto paint store ( not Kragens, etc... ) should have them. If the the part you need to get cleaned off is made of aluminum then use the "red" disc, if it's cast iron use a brown one. [b]DO NOT[/b] use a brown one on aluminum. It is much harder and more abrasive and will remove aluminum very quickly.

But the best thing would be to take the parts to your local auto machine shop, have them hot (cast iron) or cold (aluminum) tank the parts and then bead blast them for you. Might cost $25-50 and requires zero effort on your part and you get them back all nice and clean.

ball peen hammers really do work well. id never seen it before an ingersoll rand technician showed me at work. we were rebuilding a compressor and the gaskets were stuck like no other. he just tapped them with a ball peen and they came right off. then a little scraping and they were gone.

Don't use the the 3M pads unless you can completely wash the engine parts. Most engine makers do not recommend using the pads and will not warranty engine work if they were used.
  The pads leave a fine abrasive that oil fiters do not contain. Which will lead to rapid engine wear.
Something to consider
VM

Paint and decal remover is the easiest and least damaging method of removing stubborn gaskets. Any abrasive wheel in a die grinder or drill will round the corners of the metal parts.