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Posted: 5/20/2005 11:05:51 AM EDT

Wife's got a 2000 Cavalier that seems to have run out.  I know you can buy the recharge cans at Autozone or wherever.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 11:07:03 AM EDT
[#1]
You mean AC coolant?

If she's out, refilling it isn't your problem. You need to find and seal the leak first.

Edit: Doh! You said AC in the thread title.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 11:07:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Are you sure you can still get the re-charging kits?  I thought the EPA made them illegal or something...
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 11:09:27 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Are you sure you can still get the re-charging kits?  I thought the EPA made them illegal or something...

You can buy coolant for "modern" vehicles, if it was made before 1994 or so, you're SOL and have to have the system converted to the new coolant.

Kharn
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 5:52:40 PM EDT
[#4]
Buy a recharge of 134A at Autozone , Checker fill it up.   If it lasts all summer you have a slow leak or lack of use leak from over the winter.

Move along - nothing to see here
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 6:00:57 PM EDT
[#5]
Been using Propane in the R-12 unit in my truck for the last 6-7 years. Can freeze you out with it.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 6:05:12 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
Wife's got a 2000 Cavalier that seems to have run out.  I know you can buy the recharge cans at Autozone or wherever.



Autozone

Kit

'nough said.....

....well not really, Autozone also sells a can that stops holes as well. It works good for slow leaks. Include that with your kit.

eta: Just re-read your title. If you have enough mechanical ability to unjam / reload an AR, you can follow the directions on the kit. It's easy.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 6:07:46 PM EDT
[#7]
I've seen R134 at the supermarket before so you should have no trouble finding it and looking at the instrusctions on the package.

But if it needs a recharge, you have a leak.

Link Posted: 5/20/2005 6:15:29 PM EDT
[#8]
You would need the 134A refrigerent.  There is a valve sort of like a large tire valve on your AC line.  Just unscrew the cap, connect the hose for the refrigerent, empty can into the system.  It's bascially that easy.  Walmart seems to have the best selection.  There are multiple cans, some come with a hose attached, some have a hose and pressure gauge, some come as a kit with a detachable hose with pressure gauge and a can.  Then you have different types of additives you can get with the 134A, some have a red dye to identify leaks, others have UV dye, others come with a charge of oil, and others come with something that is supposed to clean out the system.

I would recommend getting the packaged kit that has the detachable hose with the pressure guage.  Otherwise you are just guessing on if you have too much or too little in the system.  Then if you do have a leak and need to recharge it you can just get the cheap 134A bottle and fill it back up.

I've been fighting my AC compressor, it went out so I replaced it but couldn't get it to seal tight.  I've used pretty much every type of refrigerent out there and the packaged kit is the best deal and most flexible.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 6:24:28 PM EDT
[#9]
I did a 1996 s-10 Blaser last year with a kit from NAPA.  I replaced the compressor and recharged the whole system with the new safe stuff.  It was not hard at all.  It took like 2 or 3 cans of the refrigerant (sp?) to get it going again.  At first I thought I had screwed up because the air wasn't getting cold, but you must make sure you get the system fully recharged or it won't work.  The compressor was turning on andf off as I approached the right amount.  If oyu don't get enough in the compressor's "clutch" won't engage.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 7:08:58 PM EDT
[#10]
If air gets in the system(zero pressure) you will have to pull a vacumm after fixing the leak.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 7:54:35 PM EDT
[#11]
thanks folks
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 8:14:43 PM EDT
[#12]


  You should have dye put in the system first and have a leak check done before filling with refrigerant. After finding leak fix it and re-check it. Then pull a vaccum for at least thirty minutes and weigh in refrigerant to manufacture specs. I wouldn't just add until the compressor engages. Since I'm a A/C tech that's what I'd do.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 8:20:51 PM EDT
[#13]


Quoted:

  You should have dye put in the system first and have a leak check done before filling with refrigerant. After finding leak fix it and re-check it. Then pull a vaccum for at least thirty minutes and weigh in refrigerant to manufacture specs. I wouldn't just add until the compressor engages. Since I'm a A/C tech that's what I'd do.



Know what the high and low side pressures should be? Is it different for each vehicle? or are all R134 systems basically the same?
Link Posted: 5/21/2005 7:12:20 AM EDT
[#14]
    Propane ????  Wraith ??? are you OK??
Link Posted: 5/21/2005 7:13:23 AM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
Been using Propane in the R-12 unit in my truck for the last 6-7 years. Can freeze you out with it.



while true propane is a great refrigerant, it has some very UNSAFE characteristics..... like FLAMABILITY!!!! TOXICITY!! Have you considered what would happen if your evaporator would spring a leak and fill your passenger compartment with LP ???? I just hope you don't have a cigarette in hand when it happens.... or a refrigerant hose failure in a HOT engine compartment??? Your car probably has a liquid receiver in it and if it is ruptured in a crash..... well it won't be pretty

You are driving a BOMB!!!
Link Posted: 5/22/2005 5:43:13 PM EDT
[#16]
Well speak of the devil, I found out my AC wasnt working today (compressor wasnt staying engaged), so I added an ~14oz can of coolant/leak-sealer from Walmart, went on a ~70mi drive for work and when I finished it, the damn compressor is not engaging and the gauge from my refill kit is back at the house.  Looks like I'll have to find a black light and look for the leak (when my Blazer was converted to 134 they added some UV dye to the system) and then take it to the shop to get it fixed when I get home in a few days.

Kharn
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