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Posted: 6/25/2001 6:27:30 AM EDT
OK now the question.

I've got a new USGI type WWII style shoulder holster on it's way that is unfinished leather.  The guy at Charlie's Surplus Supply recommended that I use Neet's foot oil.  Where can I buy that?

P.S.  What where you expecting? [spank]
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:09:21 AM EDT
[#1]
Neatsfoot oil can be found at any horse tack store.  Another option would be Horseman's One Step which cleans and conditions in one.  I use it on my saddles although some folks complain it leaves a build-up residue.

Mink oil is a wonderful product.. conditions and provides water repellency... great for leather car interiors, too.  You can find that at shoe stores (Doc Martin has a GREAT product) or in some auto supply sections.

Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:15:03 AM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:16:19 AM EDT
[#3]
If you purchase neat's foot oil, read the list of ingredients first- if you see the words "petroleum distillates", don't buy it- it's not REAL neat's foot oil, and will dry out your leather eventually. Real neat's foot oil, is, as Miss Magnum says, usually only available at horse tack shops.

Be sparing with neat's foot oil, as it tends to break down stitching that is made from natural materials after a while, if applied too often and too generously. A little dab'll do ya!
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:17:59 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
MM, as long as you are the expert, perhaps you can help me.  I have an antique leather razor strop (sp.?) that is dried out and lost its suppleness.  Do you know of something that will condition it back to usefulness?  Thanks!
View Quote


Even more to the point- how does one sharpen an old straight razor properly, so that I can shave with it?
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:33:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Neet's Foot is OK, but I use "Leather Food" (also called Dubbin).  It's usually found at stores that carry horse tack.  I found out about it from an Englishman who sold me an old shotgun that came with a leather case that's over 100 years old.  Leather Food does a good job of restoring and preserving leather.
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:33:57 AM EDT
[#6]
Neatsfoot oil can be bought at most shoe and saddle shops.  However, be sure to get PURE neatsfoot oil.  Most products sold are actually neatsfoot COMPOUND, which is FISH oil, with enough neatsfoot added to call it neatsfoot.

Neatsfoot will darken and soften the leather, so use it sparingly. When you apply it, the leather will turn very dark, then lighten some as it soaks in.  Since this is what was used by the military, it will give the holster that "GI" look.

As a watchout:  Many leather "repos" have a clear finish on them that will partially prevent the oil from penetrating.  If so, apply a small amount on the back side of the leather, and allow plenty of time for it to penetrate.  After a few hours, the oil will distribute it's self throughout the leather, and the color will even out.

thebeekeeper1:
A good product to restore dried out leather, is Lexol.  They make a cleaner and regular Lexol treatmen.  This will restore the flexability of leather, without darkening it, or making it too soft.  SHAKE THE CAN WELL, and apply as per directions, until the leather feels right.  Then let stand for 24 hours.  If it's still dry, apply more.

The correct method of sharpening is to buy some yellow or red rouge from a knifemaker supplier, or a jewelers supply house.  This should be bought in stick form.  Red is really to fine for steel, but most old strops have red on one side and white rouge or Tripoli, on the other.

Rub the rouge into one side of the strop.  Either lay the strop flat on a table, or hang it from a hook, and hold the other end.
Lay the blade flat on the leather, edge facing AWAY FROM YOU, lift the back side slightly, and pull the blade down the length of the leather toward you. Flip the blade over, and pull it back across the leather.

This is the opposite of sharpening on a stone, where you push the blade across the stone, edge first, as though trying to shave a slice of the stone off.

As a matter of interest:  You can make nice strops by buying a 2 inch leather belt strip from Tandy leather, or any leather shop.  Be sure to get a belt STRIP, not a semi-finished blank.
Oil the strip with neatsfoot, or Lexol, and coat BOTH sides with rouge.  Use the rough side to "edge" the blade, and the smooth side to give it a high polish.  
This will give any knife a scapel-like edge.  
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 7:40:59 AM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 8:04:16 AM EDT
[#8]
Do you people have no idea how inhumane the conditions under which the Neats are kept?  The pain they endure having their little Neatfeet squeezed just to provide that oil?  If you'd ever spent one day on a Neatfarm you'd not be considering that option.
Hummmph.
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 8:07:48 AM EDT
[#9]
beekeeper1:
Yes, I'm a retired Master Watchmaker, and I get mine from S. LaRose, in Greenboro, NC.
1-336-621-1936 online at:

www.slarose.com

I would recommend yellow rouge #PS-289 around $2.00, and Brown Tripoli #PS-301 around $1.75.

These are old stock numbers and prices.

The yellow goes on the smooth side, and the Tripoli on the rough side.

This stuff is designed to be used on powered polishing wheels, and comes in large waxy sticks.  Rub hard to get it into the leather.

DON'T "slap" the blade back and forth, like you've seen people do.  Lay it flat and pull.  "Slapping" the blade will round the edge.

CELT:
We get neatsfoot oil from the same farms we get NaugaHyde.  There are PLENTY of Neat's, and Nauga's around.
Link Posted: 6/25/2001 9:35:49 AM EDT
[#10]
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