Quoted: Just curious, how do you propose to tell the difference between factory loads & reloads??
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one of the bennies of being a reloader for over 10 years is you've almost seen it all and pick up quite a bit of ammunition forensic knowledge.
Telling a reload from a factory load isn't all that hard. Some clues if a round is reload:
1) if the factory round has a gold colored primer and the primer is silver, it might be a reload. Federal 9mm ammo has gold colored primers for instance.
2) if it's a military surplus round or bulk fmj round it might have a primer sealant on it, a reloader typically wont seal their primers
3) look for bullet that typically wouldnt be on the cartridge case, e.g. a Speer Gold Dot bullet on a Winchester case
4) look at the finish of the round, it's dirty, probably a reload who's reloader didn't tumble it to polish the brass. If shiny but rough finish, leans towards factory round. A reloader will usually use a tumbler to clean their brass and it gives a different finish than the factory finish, it's more satin like - duller but smoother
5) and autoloading rounds you should be able to see an extractor or multiple extractor marks, one for each time it's been fired.
6) look for a swaged primer pocket, if the brass was once fired military, chances are the primer pocket had to be reamed or swaged to take the military crimp out.
7) for .223 rounds, look to see if the mouth of the case is flat and smooth rather than crinkly-cut like winchester white box .223 ammo, that indicates it's been trimmed.
8) seating depth is another clue, take 2 9mm FMJ rounds, a factory and a reloaded round, chances are the reloaded round wont be the same OAL as the factory round.
If I thought about it some more I could come up with more clues