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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:15:22 PM EDT
As the saying goes...
"No good deed goes unpunished" I decided to change my tranny fluid tonight. I had order a deep tranny pan to replace the stock model (460 C6 Transmission) Some of the bolts came out real easy. 5 did not, and the heads snapped off. I guess I have a few choices, try to drill out, easy out, or heli coil. Reccomendations? Also, when I got the tranny pan off, this was sitting in the bottom of it:  After doing some research, it turns out that is a plug from the Ford factory, used in the assembly process. It's a 1989, with 43000 on it, I got it in February, I guess it's time to change the fluid! |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:20:32 PM EDT
[#1]
I think that might be a bad thing. But then again what do I know, I'm just a kid. Sorry I can't help you. I would drill out and buy new bolts though.
Wolfe |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:23:34 PM EDT
[#2]
i've had excellent luck with heli-coils, ingenius product that works great..................
shit if i know what that plunger type thing is though, i don't do fords....................... |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:25:06 PM EDT
[#3]
drill, easy out, and chase threads.
upon reassembly use some never seeze. |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:26:11 PM EDT
[#4]
That's original fluid? From 1989, or did that plug recently wiggle out?
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:26:27 PM EDT
[#5]
How in the hell did you scrape up the funds to buy a "Broken Tranny"??
I've seen tranny's before... but a broken one is quite a catch! NOTE: Stay away from the corner of 55th and Main |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:26:56 PM EDT
[#6]
heli-coils are after the other options don't work. You still have to get the broken bolts out. |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:32:49 PM EDT
[#7]
There is another post on tonight about broken bolts and I'll tell you what I told him. Pay someone to TIG a nut to the broken bolt, then back it out. The heat will loosen the bolt. If the bolt is not too deep below the surface any good welder can build it up high enough to put a nut on it. While your at it get your welder to put a pipe nipple and cap on the pan so you wont have to do this again. That way you can change the oil without pulling the pan unless your going to change the filter too.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:34:13 PM EDT
[#8]
That plug has scared many shade tree mechanics
Bobwrench |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:50:48 PM EDT
[#9]
It sure got me! |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:52:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Best I can tell, the pan has never been dropped. I think some of the Jiffy lube type places can change the fluid with some machine that hooks to the cooling lines. |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:53:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Left handed drill bits. If the bolts werent mangled going in it'll help. Home Depot has a pretty cheap set of easy-outs. Just in case the drill bit trick doesnt work.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:58:17 PM EDT
[#12]
If you managed to break 5, I'd suggest having someone else finish the repair.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 6:58:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Looks like they are a bit too recessed, plus I would have to get a welder here, cause I can't get the vehicle there. The deep tranny pan I ordered has a drain plug! Whoopee! I can't beleive that the mfg don't put one in. It sure is a mess getting that pan off. I'm also putting in an in line filter that I can change as well. PS This is the vehicle. 20,000 pounds of gas guzzling heaven!  |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:01:49 PM EDT
[#14]
I saw this on another site. Can you get these at home depot type stores? |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:03:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Here's a suggestion. Bolt the pan back on without the gasket. Move over about a half an inch and drill a fresh hole and tap new threads. Fill the old holes with gorilla snot. Cut new holes in the gasket and put it back on.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:07:02 PM EDT
[#16]
I'd most likely try the 'wholesale tool warehouses' first. |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:15:03 PM EDT
[#17]
bullshit, depends on your level of patience me, i'd drill the fuckers to the heli-coil size straight off and be done with it........................... |
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:18:57 PM EDT
[#18]
use craftsman reverse drill bit extractors, 4 in a box. DO NOT use cheap ez-outs, they are a BITCH to remove when they snap off inside your broken stud, and they will, trust me. don't forget to centerpunch or the bit will walk, and jack up the threads.
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Posted: 10/6/2004 7:26:04 PM EDT
[#19]
+1 Read the instructions on the e-z outs and use the proper size, and buy good ones not chinese crap. |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 5:55:26 AM EDT
[#20]
A TIG welder is gonna charge you an arm and a leg to come lay under a rig and try to weld on 5 nuts overhead. There is no sense in changing the oil if you are not gonna change the filter 
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Posted: 10/7/2004 5:57:24 AM EDT
[#21]
 
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Posted: 10/7/2004 6:05:55 AM EDT
[#22]
Left handed drill bits.
available at mscsupply.com or mcmaster-carr.com do NOT buy cheap easy-outs. use a quality tap, too. if you manage to snap the tap off you'll REALLY be in a world of hurt! trust me, tap removers never work well for me (but, edm does!!!). as gunrunner said, heilcoil or keensert as a last resort....and use kantseize or some similar anti-seize coating. |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:29:33 AM EDT
[#23]
I am adding an external filter, that hopefully will minimize future dropping of the pan. See: www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page25.html |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:38:23 AM EDT
[#24]
x2! |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:39:41 AM EDT
[#25]
+1 |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:39:59 AM EDT
[#26]
Isn't drilling the broken bolts out just another method of removing them? Or are you having difficulty agreeing with 1GR? 
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:42:30 AM EDT
[#27]
+1 the drill bits usually will get a bite and unscrew them while drilling. Smack the broken bolts with a punch to indent them in the center and it also will help shock them and make loosening them a tad easier. |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 10:44:31 AM EDT
[#28]
PB BLASTER
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Posted: 10/7/2004 11:07:57 AM EDT
[#29]
Remember when drilling the bolts out keep the drill straight or square to the broken bolt. Use a center punch and get the hole started correctly in the center of the bolt. If the bolt is too jaggered to get the hole started straight then clean the bolt up as best you can us a stone to dress it flat or a larger size drill bit to take the high spots off. When drilling a broken bolt 75 % of the work comes before the drill bit gets hit the metal first time. TAKE YOUR TIME because you only get one chance to do it right then its move on to Helicoils.
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Posted: 10/7/2004 11:11:53 AM EDT
[#30]
Drilling the bolt out and maybe having to retap the hole takes more time and skill. When you install Helicoils you use a OVERSIZE drill bit right off the bat. You destory the old threads and bolt. |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 12:48:28 PM EDT
[#31]
The fact is you are still going to be drilling steel incased in aluminum...why not try and drill the bolt first?
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Posted: 10/7/2004 4:01:03 PM EDT
[#32]
+2 (or three) Left handed drill bits work on about 90% of broken bolts. On something easy onad coarse threaded like tranny bolts in aluminum, I'd expect closer to 100%. The old bolts probably corroded due to dissimilar metals. Use a little anti-seize, and all new bolts. |
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Posted: 10/7/2004 7:04:05 PM EDT
[#33]
+1 Tx, my small sample size of problems concurs. I tired to drill the first one out. Center puch, used a craftsman drill-out bit. (Left Hended) Started a nice hole (used a transfer punch) Started the extractor portion, andi it just dug in and stalled the Makita drill. Well, I decide to try a left handed bit. It, or I got off center. I am going to JB Weld this hole and redrill and install a heli coil Try 2 Got the 5/16-18 heli coils, and ther was a misprint on the front of the package where it said to use a certain drill size. It had 8.3 mm on it. My MSC chart had drill size Q for the proper size. Well, it now looks like 21/64 was the right one, so the hole is a tiny bit to big, and doesn't tape soe good. I'm thinkning JB weld and a Heli-COil for this as well. Degrease hole. Coat the coil with JB, and install. Geez, thrity minute project has turned into a few days!!!!! |
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