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Posted: 9/2/2004 1:24:30 AM EDT
In this months Hot Rod. You can now buy a "crate camaro" to go with your crate engine. For about $13k you get a whole car minus the drivetrain, axles, interior and other related bits. You can essentially buy a o-mile 69 now for half of a 100% restoed one. 1st version will be a convertable with hardtop to follow. 67 stangs to follow soon.

I will be interest when I can get a 69 Mach 1

S.O.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 1:27:40 AM EDT
[#1]
I've wondered when this would start happening. I'll wait til I can get a new 55 or 57 Chevy Belair.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 1:38:59 AM EDT
[#2]
I still want an old Mopar.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 1:44:42 AM EDT
[#3]
Does it come with a giant aluminum wing for the ass end? If not, I'm not buyin! I gots mah pride yo.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 1:47:14 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
I still want an old Mopar.



Give it time.....

Old MOPARs were such rust buckets that they will undoubtedly make them. a 69 RoadRunner would be nice....

S.O.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 2:16:47 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I still want an old Mopar.



Give it time.....

Old MOPARs were such rust buckets that they will undoubtedly make them. a 69 RoadRunner would be nice....

S.O.



Link Posted: 9/2/2004 2:18:46 AM EDT
[#6]
so they are only now selling reproduction bodies for 13k?? or is there more to it? still a lot of work and money to go if thats the case, but at least thats an option. im surprised it took this long though.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 2:19:05 AM EDT
[#7]
Are you saying that old original MOPARs are NOT rust magnets? I'm not saying they are not cool cars. I guess if you say anything now that someone doesn't agree with your a .

S.O.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 2:20:09 AM EDT
[#8]
As I understand it is a frame with complete body ready for bolt on parts. It was said in the article that to take the average 69 camaro to like new factory shape it will take about $26k in body shop work when you factor materials and labor to repair the ORIGINAL body. That is not completely out of line as muscle car restos to concours shape can easily go $75k for a know high quality shop that specializes in them.

S.O.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 2:43:56 AM EDT
[#9]
Great.  If my wife hears about the 'Stang it will cut into my ammo fund.  
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 3:07:59 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
Are you saying that old original MOPARs are NOT rust magnets? I'm not saying they are not cool cars. I guess if you say anything now that someone doesn't agree with your a .

S.O.



They are indeed rust buckets, and worse, replacement parts are few and far between. One of the worst rust problems with old Mopars is the crossmember where the torsion bars are anchored. Once that goes, no more driving. And there are no new replacement parts so the only option is to repair the existing one, or cut/weld in another used one. Even a new relpacement part would require the cutting/welding, and most people aren't equipped for that kind of work. Also, that assumes the metal the crossmember was welded to isn't rusted out. It goes on and on.

Been there, done that. All the old cars were rust buckets, not just Mopars. The difference was and is the availability of replacement parts.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 3:11:00 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
Great.  If my wife hears about the 'Stang it will cut into my ammo fund.  



Your ammo fund is more than $13,000? You sir, are my new personal hero.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 3:49:52 AM EDT
[#12]
Does this mean that my '68 rs/ss value is going to go into the toilet?? Just great
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:01:57 AM EDT
[#13]
Just great. Does this mena that the value of my 68 RS/SS is gonna go in the toilet!
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:02:33 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I still want an old Mopar.



Give it time.....

Old MOPARs were such rust buckets that they will undoubtedly make them. a 69 RoadRunner would be nice....

S.O.



Could not agree more on both points.  My old '74 Challenger has probably rusted down to its frame by now.... but darn, I really miss that car!
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:06:13 AM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Great.  If my wife hears about the 'Stang it will cut into my ammo fund.  



Your ammo fund is more than $13,000? You sir, are my new personal hero.



Hah!!!

Not hardly!  It was just a way of illustrating how it would divert funds from other areas.

Actually, if I had the fundage available I'd get her one.  She deserves it for putting up with me!
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:08:31 AM EDT
[#16]
Just wondering, If you build one of these, how would the "new" '69 Camero kit be titled? '69 or '04 and have to meet emisions requirements for '04? hmmmmmm.....
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:09:04 AM EDT
[#17]
So when do the GTO's get relased? Don't really care about which is faseter I just want one bad! I've seen 3 64/65s in the last week and a half and it hurts me to not be driving them
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 4:47:23 AM EDT
[#18]
When they start replicating Hudson Hornets, Edsels and Studebakers, then I'll believe it. And a Nash Metropolitan and a Henry J, too. Who wants a Camaro anyway- you can only drive 65 MPH max anyway- so sayeth the Popo......
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:27:55 AM EDT
[#19]
More than likely they would be titled by the owner, just like most kit cars are.
As far as smog goes it would depend on the date of engine manufacture.


I help out with a kit car in Kalicommiefornicastan, so I am familiar with the rules.

Registration Requirements for Home-Made, Specially Constructed, or Kit Vehicles  



A "home-made, specially constructed, or kit vehicle" is a vehicle which is built for private use, not for resale, and is not constructed by a licensed manufacturer or remanufacturer. These vehicles may be built from a kit, new or used parts, a combination of new and used parts, or a vehicle reported for dismantling, which, when reconstructed, does not resemble the original make of the vehicle which was dismantled (Vehicle Code §§5500 or 11520).

A specially constructed (SPCNS) vehicle does not include a vehicle which has been repaired or restored to its original design by replacing parts or a vehicle modified from its original design.

NOTE: The registration requirements for kit commercial vehicles are the same as for specially constructed vehicles.

Visit DMV to begin the application process (make an appointment for faster service)

The Registration Requirements are:

A completed Application for Title or Registration (REG 343). It must include the labor cost, even if it was a vehicle that you built.

A vehicle verification. You must start your application process with the DMV prior to contacting the CHP for a vehicle verification. Trailers generally do not require CHP verification.

A Statement of Construction (REG 5036) and bill(s) of sale and receipts for major component parts. The REG 256 may also be used to comply with bond requirements (see below).

Proof of ownership, such as, invoices, receipts, manufacturer's certificates of origin, bill(s) of sale, or junk receipts for the major component parts (engine, frame, transmission, body).
Official brake and light adjustment certificates. When an official brake and light station that inspects specific vehicles such as motorcycles and large commercial vehicles is not located within a reasonable distance, DMV will accept a Statement of Facts (REG 256) from a repair shop attesting that the brakes and lights are in proper working order. Brake and light certificates are not required for trailers weighing under 3,000 pounds gross vehicle weight.
A smog certification, if appropriate. For more information regarding the Bureau of Automotive Repair's smog program click here. For information on SPCNS Certificates of Sequence click here.
A weight certificate, if appropriate.

Fees due (use tax may also be due).

SPCNS Certificates of Sequence
Specially Constructed Vehicles- Emission Control  

What is the Specially Constructed Vehicle Emission Control Program?

Existing law requires most motor vehicles of a model year 1974 and newer to pass a smog check, emissions control inspection, prior to initial registration or transfer of ownership and every second annual renewal.

Specially constructed vehicles do not have a manufacturer assigned model year because they are esentially home-made vehicles. In the past these vehicles were subject to the emissions control requirements applicable to the year of the engine installed in the vehicle and the regular smog inspections per the county where the vehicle was registered. The year of the engine was determined by a Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) referee during the initial inspection.

In 2001, Senate Bill 100 passed which allowed the first 500 specially constructed passenger vehicles and pick-up trucks presented for original (initial) registration to DMV to have the year model for emissions control equipment and inspection purposes based on the appearance of the engine or the vehicle as a whole. In addition, if the vehicle or engine does not resemble an established make or year model BAR is required to assign 1960 as the year model for emission control purposes. In 2002, another Senate Bill passed, SB 1578, which allowed previously registered vehicles to be allowed this special consideration by BAR in addition to initial registrations.

What is a SPCNS Certificate of Sequence?

A SPCNS Certificate of Sequence is a form issued by the DMV that is presented to a BAR referee inspection station identifying the vehicle as one of the first 500 eligible for the SPCNS emission control program. Applications for the certificates are available starting January 1 of every year. Once the 500 yearly allotment of certificates has been issued applicants must wait until the next January 1 to apply for a certificate.

Once you have applied for a SPCNS Certificate of Sequence at your local DMV (and there are still certificates available) you will recieve the certificate within 7-10 working days in the mail. The certificate must be presented to the Smog Referee at the time of your smog inspection appointment.








Quoted:
Just wondering, If you build one of these, how would the "new" '69 Camero kit be titled? '69 or '04 and have to meet emisions requirements for '04? hmmmmmm.....

Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:29:09 AM EDT
[#20]
pics or a link?
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:33:29 AM EDT
[#21]
... mega-tagged!

... Now I would be up for that. The first hotrod I had as a teen was a '69 Z28 Camaro. That thing was cherry, fast as hell and turned heads all over town. Damn those were the days.
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:33:40 AM EDT
[#22]



Quoted:
pics or a link?

Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:34:57 AM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:35:51 AM EDT
[#24]
Any word on a Pacer or a Pinto? I would be in for one of each!
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:41:07 AM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:
I will be interest when I can get a 69 Mach 1



+1

Although I saw a Silver/Pewter 05 mustang in person for the first time, at the State Fair, and OMFG is that a gorgeous car.  It was all I could do not to buy one right there on the spot.

Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:41:54 AM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:46:41 AM EDT
[#27]

Quoted:
I still want an old Moped.



There, fixed it for you!


ByteTheBullet  (-:
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:51:04 AM EDT
[#28]



I will be interested when I can get a 69 Mach 1

S.O.



No kidding. Now do I paint it Raven Black or Silverjade green?
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:55:20 AM EDT
[#29]

Link please?
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 5:55:42 AM EDT
[#30]

Quoted:
For about $13k you get a whole car minus the drivetrain, axles, interior and other related bits.



So it's a just frame and body for 13k?
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 6:07:41 AM EDT
[#31]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Are you saying that old original MOPARs are NOT rust magnets? I'm not saying they are not cool cars. I guess if you say anything now that someone doesn't agree with your a .

S.O.



They are indeed rust buckets, and worse, replacement parts are few and far between. One of the worst rust problems with old Mopars is the crossmember where the torsion bars are anchored. Once that goes, no more driving. And there are no new replacement parts so the only option is to repair the existing one, or cut/weld in another used one. Even a new relpacement part would require the cutting/welding, and most people aren't equipped for that kind of work. Also, that assumes the metal the crossmember was welded to isn't rusted out. It goes on and on.

Been there, done that. All the old cars were rust buckets, not just Mopars. The difference was and is the availability of replacement parts.



The are replacement K-Members but I forgot the name of the firm that offers them.

Around 94 or so I had to replace a broken K-member on a Dart I had at the time.
I bought a used one then right after I found a firm offering new ones - DOH!
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 6:28:40 AM EDT
[#32]
linkey man
Link Posted: 9/2/2004 10:55:49 AM EDT
[#33]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Any word on a Pacer or a Pinto? I would be in for one of each!



What he said, I want a Pinto to go with my Maverick!



Normally I avoid GM products but I'd jump on a new Vega  The only Chevy car I'd own.  Drop in a warmed up Buick V6 or a hot Pontiac 2.5L "Iron Duke" i4 with a 5 speed stickshift, sticky low profile tires/upgraded suspension.......
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 1:34:55 AM EDT
[#34]

Quoted:

Quoted:
For about $13k you get a whole car minus the drivetrain, axles, interior and other related bits.



So it's a just frame and body for 13k?



Yes, but it is assebled. Price it out by the piece and figure in your time to assemble or have labor included and you would see it is a STEAL.

S.O.
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 1:38:14 AM EDT
[#35]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Any word on a Pacer or a Pinto? I would be in for one of each!



What he said, I want a Pinto to go with my Maverick!



I could have gotten you one the other month $200 shoots fire out of the carb too.
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 1:39:18 AM EDT
[#36]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I still want an old Moped.



There, fixed it for you!


ByteTheBullet  (-:





Wondered how long that would take.


I dont know about buying one,  Fixing the current car is already a pain in the ass.
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 2:51:09 AM EDT
[#37]

Quoted:
The are replacement K-Members but I forgot the name of the firm that offers them.

Around 94 or so I had to replace a broken K-member on a Dart I had at the time.
I bought a used one then right after I found a firm offering new ones - DOH!




HEY!!!!  Where ya been hiding???

I wasn't talking so much about the K-member as the transmission crossmember where the torsion bars anchor and the trans mount bolts up.  BTW, I have a like new V8 K-member for a `70 `Cuda or Challenger if you know anybody that wants to buy one..... Not only is it not rusty, it isn't even dirty!! Tons of other stuff available too...


Must have HK51......must have HK51..... must have HK51.......
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