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Quoted: Someone did that to a positive battery cable and the braided hot line from an truck air compressor. I got called out for a won't start and found the braided air line glowing red, no truck fire resulted fortunately. View Quote Cool when the grounded brake line rubs through the insulation and the brake fluid turns into a flame thrower |
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On multiple carb setups you can tune using the temperature of the base of carbs as a tuning technique as well as exaust tubes ,one is cold, one is hot
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Never trust the floorjack. Never. Always use a jack stand. Always.
Buy extra 10mm sockets. Also, was in Autozone today. A customer who sounded like a regular came in with a big grin, asking for some octane booster for his Tesla. |
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When your cone clutch gets grabby spray a little oil in it, smooths it right out
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Quoted: <Snip> A more recent problem i encountered and got an old school tip to try and fix: wasn't getting fuel at the carb. Neighbor had me charge the tank with air, which led me to find the leak in the fuel line causing my issue. View Quote When I did field service I used to keep a few common spare fuel caps with an air fitting installed into them to pressurize the fuel tank. On old mechanical injected diesels it made for a quick, less messy way to bleed the air out of the fuel system after someone ran the equipment out of fuel. |
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Quoted: Use a short section of 3/8 hose mashed onto the insulator of a spark plug to thread it into the cylinder head. Can make bends and keeps your hands/fingers away from screaming hot header primaries. Still gotta torque them of course, but the hose trick makes getting them in and out a breeze View Quote Also keeps you from cross-threading. |
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Quoted: Throw away your pickleforks. To release a tie rod end or ball joint, hit the side of the female part with a hammer. View Quote For that to work successfully you need to back up the other side with another heavy hammer. Takes less whacks that way. ETA: Should have known this was already addressed. |
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Quoted: Use random shit from your vehicle to repair things... Think outside the box! I call it my own roadside assistance program... Or its Friday and I wanna get home work truck fix. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/183526/20200206_164324__1__jpg-2381365.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/183526/20200206_161848__1__jpg-2381363.JPG View Quote You sire, are a real man of genius! |
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Before you start a repair, check to see you have all the tools and parts..like that gasket, you know the one gasket that somehow should be included but isn't and is a special order part that is backordered AND in no way shape or form can be substituted. If it can go wrong, it will.. spectacularly and at the worst time. Yes, God does hate you and is laughing at you right now while you are on the side of the road in the rain.
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Quoted: Zip ties on the driveshaft will make you friends go nuts. Always have a good collection of 10mm sockets before starting any automotive project. When you jack the damn car up and go under it ALWAYS use a lot of cribbing in case it falls. 3,200 pounds on the chest is no fun. In fact it makes blood spew out your ears and eyes and puts you in a 5 day coma with last rites before you defy all odds and survive without taking a breath for 9 minutes...... 0 stars, would NOT recommend View Quote Were you installing zip ties on a friend's car, or were you removing zip ties from your drive shaft? |
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Quoted: But what if your cam has 500+ lift on both valves? Ain't no vacuum View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: If you don't have a timing light you can set the timing with a vacuum gage. This is just for old non computer controlled engines. But what if your cam has 500+ lift on both valves? Ain't no vacuum If you are running a cam that large in an old school engine, then I will assume that you took the time to properly degree your cam on install. You should still tune for the most possible vacuum at idle, even if that vacuum is really low. I start with the recommended timing advance, set engine speed to the recommended idle rpm for the cam, lean the idle mix until the rpm goes up / vacuum increases, adjust idle speed again, and repeat until I get the highest possible vacuum. After that, I may advance the ignition timing, and go through the process again until I think that I have the best possible idle quality for the engine combination. It is important on carburetor equipped engines that the throttle blades at idle are not set so open that they are past the idle fuel circuit. Lots of people used to mess that up, then wonder why their cars ran so poorly. My tips: 1. Learn how to read spark plugs. 2. With conventional spark plugs, the position of the heat discoloration line on the electrode can tell you if your ignition timing is close to right. 3. Bigger is not always better regarding cams and carburetors. |
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Quoted: If you are running a cam that large in an old school engine, then I will assume that you took the time to properly degree your cam on install. You should still tune for the most possible vacuum at idle, even if that vacuum is really low. I start with the recommended timing advance, set engine speed to the recommended idle rpm for the cam, lean the idle mix until the rpm goes up / vacuum increases, adjust idle speed again, and repeat until I get the highest possible vacuum. After that, I may advance the ignition timing, and go through the process again until I think that I have the best possible idle quality for the engine combination. It is important on carburetor equipped engines that the throttle blades at idle are not set so open that they are past the idle fuel circuit. Lots of people used to mess that up, then wonder why their cars ran so poorly. My tips: 1. Learn how to read spark plugs. 2. With conventional spark plugs, the position of the heat discoloration line on the electrode can tell you if your ignition timing is close to right. 3. Bigger is not always better regarding cams and carburetors. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: If you don't have a timing light you can set the timing with a vacuum gage. This is just for old non computer controlled engines. But what if your cam has 500+ lift on both valves? Ain't no vacuum If you are running a cam that large in an old school engine, then I will assume that you took the time to properly degree your cam on install. You should still tune for the most possible vacuum at idle, even if that vacuum is really low. I start with the recommended timing advance, set engine speed to the recommended idle rpm for the cam, lean the idle mix until the rpm goes up / vacuum increases, adjust idle speed again, and repeat until I get the highest possible vacuum. After that, I may advance the ignition timing, and go through the process again until I think that I have the best possible idle quality for the engine combination. It is important on carburetor equipped engines that the throttle blades at idle are not set so open that they are past the idle fuel circuit. Lots of people used to mess that up, then wonder why their cars ran so poorly. My tips: 1. Learn how to read spark plugs. 2. With conventional spark plugs, the position of the heat discoloration line on the electrode can tell you if your ignition timing is close to right. 3. Bigger is not always better regarding cams and carburetors. Ah, that's another good one on the plugs. Good timing - it'll be right in the bend of the electrode. Also, fuck all advance and lock it at 36 |
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Quoted: Never trust the floorjack. Never. Always use a jack stand. Always. Buy extra 10mm sockets. Also, was in Autozone today. A customer who sounded like a regular came in with a big grin, asking for some octane booster for his Tesla. View Quote Hey, I think he was next to me. I was at the counter ordering a radiator cap for my 1962 vw beetle. |
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Quoted: Bowl shaped lifters make more powerhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/220444/20220513_134318_jpg-2382554.JPG View Quote Oh that ain’t good |
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When I was 16 my parents had a 74 Plymouth duster they were going to junk but I asked them if I could have it. Being a kid with no money I had to figure out how to make it run without spending much. This 1980, no jobs especially for kids right after the Carter years.
I found I could change my own tire (tire off the rim) by putting the tire behind the car under the bumper, pulling the valve stem then using the bumper jack, place the base on the tire next to the rim, jack up the car and break the bead. Then struggle for the next 2 hours with tire irons to get the tire off the rim. Then put the new tire back on after much struggling and bleeding knuckles and 2 more hours. Then roll it down to the old gas station that still had a real air hose hose (remember those old units on the outside wall you crank that showed you the pressure?) then take a piece of rope and a stick and wrap the middle of the tire and twist the stick to make the inside bead pop out to seal. After about a 1/2 hour you might get it to pop and seal. Who needs balancing? Also after having many starting issues due to a melted wire harness I learned I could run a wire to the starter to a button and back the the battery to make it crank. Then for ignition I learned I could run a wire from the positive side of the coil to a toggle switch then to a wire on the distributor and it would now start and run. Also had to rebuild my starter once, found the brushes were shot in the motor, took the brushes out of an old sweeper motor, filed them down to fit, soldered the wires and the starter now worked. I learned a lot from that old car and being poor then. Thing is this stuff will only work on older cars. But I felt that between this and being able to rebuild my own carb I could make any engine run then. Thus I became a teenage motor head for a long time after. |
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Quoted: 99% of the time the tool goes into the mystery black hole the manufacture builds into the vehicle. My 10mm socket is forever lost in the Jeep Wrangler engine compartment. View Quote I forget what car of mine it is, but was working on one of my shitbox BMWs and found a 10mm socket that I didn't lose in some crevice in the engine bay. Still not ahead of the game, yet. |
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Quoted: The old juicy fruit gum wrapper will work in your fuse box. View Quote Be braver. Attached File |
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If you want a bump in engine power just add a little dynamite to your gas.
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Quoted: Rich guy, I just use gas, then put it in the car. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Quoted: lol, oh jeeze I can just about imagine. On the older two stroke outboards you could adjust timing, well when some shade tree hot rodder inevitably figures that out, guess what happens next? The engine make a ton of power until you then melt a hole in the crown of the piston View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've seen too many outboard problems become nightmares from the owners attempting to fuck with them. The best is laughing at the myriad of ways people try to take the thrust washer off the prop shaft or taking the steering wheel off the helm. You should see the fuckery on old cars where every thing is adjustable lol, oh jeeze I can just about imagine. On the older two stroke outboards you could adjust timing, well when some shade tree hot rodder inevitably figures that out, guess what happens next? The engine make a ton of power until you then melt a hole in the crown of the piston Oh? What, you guys haven't encountered lil 16 year old johnny with tuning software yet? He read online how to tune! Just adjust the variables! |
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Quoted: meh the vehicle can only burn to the groundonce View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Rust Belt Brake Tip: Having a hard time removing the brake line from a caliper or wheel cylinder because the nut and steel tubing have become one and is trying to twist the steel line? Use a small torch to heat up the nut and tubing and then using a spray bottle of water, spray just the tubing then try to turn the nut. The steel tubing will cool faster than the nut and will help break the bond caused by the rust. I wood be veeeeery cautious applying a torch to a caliper brake line for reasons that can be very interesting meh the vehicle can only burn to the groundonce Is that when you find out it has a magnesium frame? |
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Quoted: I still have the tool. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/184999/74F7B463-0C41-4F10-BCD1-2804FAB6F336_png-2382017.JPG View Quote Hmm, I've always just sprayed carb cleaner, waited, sprayed some more, waited.. until I found it. Make sure to flex all the hoses / intake housings, etc. |
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Quoted: If someone brings you a car that they've been working on and there's something they just can't figure out, make sure to ask what all they've done. Go back and check those repairs, in chronological order, first. It's usually something they ficked up. View Quote Unfortunately my dad is in his late 70's and can't usually remember what he dicked with to get him to that point. Yesterday his complaint was that his lawnmower wouldnt start. Checked the oil and it was just a tick high. Checked the plug and it was drenched in oil. Drained 1/4 quart, and after burning out all the oil in cylinder and exhaust, it ran great. |
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Quoted: These kids with their turbos don't realize that induction noise is even better than exhaust noise. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Flipping the air cleaner lid doubles the hp. These kids with their turbos don't realize that induction noise is even better than exhaust noise. In the early 2000's we'd remove the air intake up to the filter, then screw the filter to the rest of the intake pipe and have our home brew (hot) CAI. It would make the awesome FWOOOOOSSSHHHH sound when you stepped on it, good for a least 15 seat of the pants HP |
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Quoted: Popping pilot bearings from crank shafts with the "breading" trick. Have done it twice and it works like a champ. Last time I did it I managed to use only one slice of bread and was out in 5 minutes. Fuck using a a puller. Giggle like a school girl wvery time it works. View Quote I pack grease in the hole until full. Use a punch with electrical taped wrapped around it to get it to the perfect fit and pound it with a hammer. Never takes more than than 5-10 minutes and works every time. |
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Quoted: lol, oh jeeze I can just about imagine. On the older two stroke outboards you could adjust timing, well when some shade tree hot rodder inevitably figures that out, guess what happens next? The engine make a shit ton of power until you then melt a hole in the crown of the piston View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've seen too many outboard problems become nightmares from the owners attempting to fuck with them. The best is laughing at the myriad of ways people try to take the thrust washer off the prop shaft or taking the steering wheel off the helm. You should see the fuckery on old cars where every thing is adjustable lol, oh jeeze I can just about imagine. On the older two stroke outboards you could adjust timing, well when some shade tree hot rodder inevitably figures that out, guess what happens next? The engine make a shit ton of power until you then melt a hole in the crown of the piston Worked golf course maintenance for many years.... guys would fiddle with shit until it ran like a scalded dog.... for a couple of days and then it would melt down. |
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Quoted: 1. Always keep a mechanical fuel pump behind the seat (or in the trunk) for a carbureted vehicle 2. To change a mechanical fuel pump, use a flat, wide carpenters pencil to hold the fuel pump pushrod up while you put the new pump on. 3. As long as you keep tools with you, you likely won’t need them. View Quote The tool for releasing roller drawer sliders on snap on tool boxes with a gradual bend put in it about 1 inch from the end works far better...pull the pump, take the slide tool and hook tin the side of the pump boss and under the rod, then drop the fuel pump down in close and move to toward the motor..the pump body will hit the tool pushing the rod out of the way, start both bolts then pull the slide tool out of the opening and tighten pump... For anybody who still works on old style small blocks, you can change any lifter without pulling the intake manifold, just pull the valve cover on the side thats making noise, turn the crank over to TDC, pull the distributor, pull the rocker off the bad lifter and use a magnet to pull it out of the lifter bore, then use a long flexible magnet to fish it out thru the distributor hole...next fish a piece of mechanics wire thru the pushrod hole of the bad lifter and out the distributor hole, then do one wrap around the middle of the lifter body and barely bend the wire over itself..pull it in the motor and up to the base of the head, use a long thin straight screwdriver to position the lifter over the bore and push it in, once its in to the wire touching, lean on the screwdriver and yank the wire off, reinstall pushrod and rocker, reinstall distributor, bump motor over till that lifter is on the base circle of the cam, adjust it to zero lash and 3/4 turn more, install valve cover and set timing...Used to take me less than 20 minutes on most small blocks at the dealer, getting it done before the service writer had it written up... I know a bunch of other ones as well, like 30 minutes to change a chevy flex plate on any V8...Way to many years of wrenching... |
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Turn your air cleaner cover upside down so you can really hear that 4bbl carb kick in
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Quoted: Never trust the floorjack. Never. Always use a jack stand. Always. Buy extra 10mm sockets. Also, was in Autozone today. A customer who sounded like a regular came in with a big grin, asking for some octane booster for his Tesla. View Quote We have a 480v plug in right there. ( I don't even know if there is such a thing. ) |
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Quoted: Ah, that's another good one on the plugs. Good timing - it'll be right in the bend of the electrode. Also, fuck all advance and lock it at 36 View Quote The heat mark on the electrode is a better show of the spark plugs heat range for the load the engine sees... Base of the center electrode(ceramic deep down inside) is where you check rich/lean.... |
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Quoted: Oh? What, you guys haven't encountered lil 16 year old johnny with tuning software yet? He read online how to tune! Just adjust the variables! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've seen too many outboard problems become nightmares from the owners attempting to fuck with them. The best is laughing at the myriad of ways people try to take the thrust washer off the prop shaft or taking the steering wheel off the helm. You should see the fuckery on old cars where every thing is adjustable lol, oh jeeze I can just about imagine. On the older two stroke outboards you could adjust timing, well when some shade tree hot rodder inevitably figures that out, guess what happens next? The engine make a ton of power until you then melt a hole in the crown of the piston Oh? What, you guys haven't encountered lil 16 year old johnny with tuning software yet? He read online how to tune! Just adjust the variables! lmao....hopefully there is more leeway with 4 strokes. |
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Quoted: Be braver. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/184999/164E24D6-9F7D-4FA9-AAA7-A45981A4379C_jpe-2383896.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The old juicy fruit gum wrapper will work in your fuse box. Be braver. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/184999/164E24D6-9F7D-4FA9-AAA7-A45981A4379C_jpe-2383896.JPG At least this way you will know if you popped a fuse. |
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Quoted: My mom had 4 young kids at the time. Drove a 1960’s Pontiac wagon. When the car would not start she had a screw driver to manipulate the choke to get it started. That was 50 years ago and just remembered that. View Quote My GF in the earlies 80's did the same thing. She called it the butterfly thing. Her dad taught her well. |
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Quoted: Popping pilot bearings from crank shafts with the "breading" trick. Have done it twice and it works like a champ. Last time I did it I managed to use only one slice of bread and was out in 5 minutes. Fuck using a a puller. Giggle like a school girl wvery time it works. View Quote I don't think I ever heard of the bread trick. I used grease once though. |
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Quoted: I don't think I ever heard of the bread trick. I used grease once though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Popping pilot bearings from crank shafts with the "breading" trick. Have done it twice and it works like a champ. Last time I did it I managed to use only one slice of bread and was out in 5 minutes. Fuck using a a puller. Giggle like a school girl wvery time it works. I don't think I ever heard of the bread trick. I used grease once though. |
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For those who haven't seen the proper tool for pilot bushings/bearings...this was my dads, its from the 60's, but he gave it to me when I went to work full time as a mechanic..It is Snap-On and it's still covered under warranty...
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Quoted: For those who haven't seen the proper tool for pilot bushings/bearings...this was my dads, its from the 60's, but he gave it to me when I went to work full time as a mechanic..It is Snap-On and it's still covered under warranty... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/404934/Screen_Shot_2022-05-16_at_4_58_47_PM_png-2386594.JPG View Quote Or they could just keep hammering on the crankshaft and wonder why the thrust crank bearing gets killed. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I’ll keep them, thanks. I’ve had less luck with the hammer trick than I have with the forks. In one bad case, nothing short of red heat , a sledgehammer, and a gear puller got that taper free. Welcome to Toyota. Classic GM, interestingly. I had to swallow my pride and take it to a shop, but it was gratifying to see that the mechanic had just as much trouble as I did, despite better tools. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Use a short section of 3/8 hose mashed onto the insulator of a spark plug to thread it into the cylinder head. Can make bends and keeps your hands/fingers away from screaming hot header primaries. Still gotta torque them of course, but the hose trick makes getting them in and out a breeze Also keeps you from cross-threading. This trick is especially handy on big block 60's Mustangs with M/T tall square valve covers. Trust me. |
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Sometimes an old gummed up carb can be brought back to life by Boiling it in water if other cleaning, or rebuild methods aren't always successful. Just don't use the wife's favorite Stew pot or there will be hell to pay.
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90s DeVille's had the blower motor on the engine side of the firewall. The book calls for you to drop the cradle so you can get the blower motor past the valve cover. It's like a three and a half hour job. You can get it out without, if you have someone brake tourque the engine. It will slip right out. Just make sure they stay on it because if they let off you might be buying a squirrel cage.
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