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Posted: 6/25/2017 11:29:01 AM EDT
http://www.dailycamera.com/boulder-county-news/ci_31091045/cu-boulder-student-recounts-harrowing-fall-rescue-at
On the Bastille, a popular formation at Eldo, the rock is a bit slippery/polished. He had on a helmet and was on a rope, and his protection held, but take a look at what's left of his helmet after the fall. 
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Posted: 6/25/2017 11:51:47 AM EDT
[#1]
What about my loud pipes and freedom
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Posted: 6/25/2017 11:55:11 AM EDT
[#2]
Even more important, belayers need to wear a helmet.
Especially on sport climbs the belayer is in more danger from rockfall than the climber and if a rock severely injures or kills the belayer the climber is probably going to be hurt or killed as well unless he can immediately clip into a bolt. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 11:58:33 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Even more important, belayers need to wear a helmet. Especially on sport climbs the belayer is in more danger from rockfall than the climber and if a rock severely injures or kills the belayer the climber is probably going to be hurt or killed as well unless he can immediately clip into a bolt. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 12:42:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What about my loud pipes and freedom |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:19:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Side note, the ad on the side of the page, for the Peace Corps, featuring the latest in protective rape whistle technology.
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:31:21 PM EDT
[#6]
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:38:51 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Even more important, belayers need to wear a helmet. Especially on sport climbs the belayer is in more danger from rockfall than the climber and if a rock severely injures or kills the belayer the climber is probably going to be hurt or killed as well unless he can immediately clip into a bolt. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:44:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This I've had rock fall on to my buddy while I was on lead. If he wasn't wearing a helmet he probably either be dead or severely brain damaged. Also always assume there will be loose rock on routes that are seldom climbed... Having a non-climbing spouse and kids, with no interest in learning, is similar to my situation with scuba gear and my one remaining motorcycle riding jacket. It all sits in storage as a quiet reminder of a bucket list slowly getting dropped in the shredder. 
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:46:10 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What about my loud pipes and freedom |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:46:51 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Even more important, belayers need to wear a helmet. Especially on sport climbs the belayer is in more danger from rockfall than the climber and if a rock severely injures or kills the belayer the climber is probably going to be hurt or killed as well unless he can immediately clip into a bolt. I never did see the rock,but after falling from several hundred feet, it made a pretty loud boom when it hit and sent shrapnel everywhere. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 1:59:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That would seem to assume that the climber is climbing with constant tension from the belay. With a GriGri autolock you'd be a bit safer but you'd potentially be stuck in place swinging (on a steep overhanging climb) until help arrived or you were able to self rescue by tying off the rope to a single bolt (single bolt rappels are killers) and then making Prusik knots or a triple biner friction device to allow you a controlled descent, unless you carry a ATC or Fig8 on your sport gear (not likely). |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 7:56:26 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you're belaying with a ATC style friction device the climber would be basically free solo climbing once the belayer was unconscious, one slip and you're done until you can direct clip into the next bolt or insert gear to clip off to. With a GriGri autolock you'd be a bit safer but you'd potentially be stuck in place swinging (on a steep overhanging climb) until help arrived or you were able to self rescue by tying off the rope to a single bolt (single bolt rappels are killers) and then making Prusik knots or a triple biner friction device to allow you a controlled descent, unless you carry a ATC or Fig8 on your sport gear (not likely). I never did much lead climbing at all, so this is straying outside my lane. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 8:22:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could always do a Münter hitch descent, but that still isn't optimal, requires extra hardware, and assumes an auto locking belay. I never did much lead climbing at all, so this is straying outside my lane. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 9:08:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it is quite precarious to downclimb to your last anchor (or free solo to the next bolt/placement), then unlock your biner, throw in a munter ,then rap off that single piece, (plus cleaning on the way) That was a crazy enough rappel and we had plenty of gear (although we left some of it in place). The thought of having to bail off the middle of a climb solo with little to no gear is a scary ass situation. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 9:35:27 PM EDT
[#15]
30+ years of climbing - and I'm not saying you shouldn't - but I've never owned or worn a helmet.
Some call it Old School, others just call it Old Fool..... 
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Posted: 6/25/2017 9:43:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Even if his head didn't split open from the fall, the impact probably fucked his brain.
EDIT: he has eight broken vertebrae, an elbow injury, a handful of fractured ribs, and a traumatic brain injury |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 9:46:20 PM EDT
[#17]
I was hauling a bag on the Elephants Perch that dislodged a flake that hit my partner in the head, breaking into two pieces on impact.
How I got down to him to render aid is beyond me. Both ropes were fully weighted. All I can recall is that my descent was not well controlled. Blood everywhere, pupils two different sizes. A mess. Tough dude, though. Put it behind him like a champ. |
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Posted: 6/25/2017 9:56:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it is quite precarious to downclimb to your last anchor (or free solo to the next bolt/placement), then unlock your biner, throw in a munter ,then rap off that single piece, (plus cleaning on the way) With bolts, any runner requiring more than one grunted swear word for me to reach and clean would be abandonware in an emergency descent. If going trad, I'd be inclined to leave any hard to remove pro up there instead of trying to clean it. It helps that I only have a tiny rack of a few hexes & nuts, don't climb any more, and therefore don't have to worry about leaving expensive Friends up there. Armchair quarterbacking is much easier this way, especially for a guy that could probably barely follow on a 5.8 or a 5.9-- nowadays.
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Posted: 6/25/2017 10:00:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Top fell off.
 
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