User Panel
Posted: 12/19/2016 7:15:47 PM EDT
The insinkerator that came with the house started leaking out the bottom over the weekend so it's time to replace it. Currently the unit is hard wired.
I watched some guy on YouTube say it is now required in Pennsylvania (where I am) to have an outlet and plug the disposal in. Can anyone confirm? |
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Can't speak for PA, but if I was replacing it myself would just wire it as is.
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Plug in seems easier, ive replaced one... did not even know hardwired was a thing anymore, most sinks have an outlet down there.
If you don't have an outlet then hook it up as it was I guess? |
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I think hard-wiring a disposal is a very bad idea. In many places it is against code. Plug in is much safer.
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Every one I've installed in the last 20 years in CO, AL, and FL have been plug-in.
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I installed mine using a plug... makes it easier to fix if it gets jammed up for some reason, and you have to remove it
to get it running again (which I've had to do twice in roughly 8 years). |
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The house was built in the 50s and the kitchen was remodeled in the 90s so I'm assuming that was the first time a disposal was installed. This is just a guess.
Since I don't have an outlet down there right now it's difinitely simpler to just hardwire the now one. Otherwise I have to install an outlet in the back of the cabinet. I don't feel that having it hardwired is unsafe. No power goes down there unless the switch is on. |
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Quoted:
I think hard-wiring a disposal is a very bad idea. In many places it is against code. Plug in is much safer. View Quote I'm honestly curious why it is safer other than the fact that you can completely remove the unit from the area if you have to. I feel like an outlet under the sink would be more vulnerable than a solid insulated wire during the catastrophic failure of a water line or something dumb like that. |
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It will only take a few minutes to put an outlet under there.
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Me and a friend installed one and ran the wiring. Plug in seems weird.
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Hardwiring is fine. It is run from a switch, so the switch is your code required "disconnecting means". The reason most have cords and plugs on them now is that we put switched receptacles in sink base cabinets so the disposal plugs into the 1/2 powered by a switch and the dishwasher plugs into the other 1/2 that's powered on the time so both have an accessible disconnecting means.
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I put in an outlet for mine. Also went to an insinkerator pneumatic switch. I like the pneumatic switch.
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Strangely, In-SinkErator makes you specify whether or not you want a cord when you buy it. If you want a cord, it has a plug.
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takes a whole minute or 2 to wire. replaced mine a year ago. house built in 70s and no outlet under sink.
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If you ever rent the place, expect a call from your tenant that the disposal isn't working so you can drive across town to find out it came unplugged I hate renters
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Quoted:
If you ever rent the place, expect a call from your tenant that the disposal isn't working so you can drive across town to find out it came unplugged I hate renters View Quote You should really consider outsourcing your property management to India. "Mr. Sir, might I know whether you have observed the plug to be properly inserted into the electrical receptacle?" |
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Most of them come wired with a cord now anyway so... install a GCFI receptacle in the existing box and future replacements are a snap.
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I sell garbage disposers in Pennsylvania and my company installs them. I have not heard of any code requirements that they be "plugged in." I know that some states require garbage disposals and dishwashers to be plugged in. That makes little sense to me because it is not unconceivable that the plug could get bumped and come partly unplugged which could create an unsafe situation.
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Quoted:
I sell garbage disposers in Pennsylvania and my company installs them. I have not heard of any code requirements that they be "plugged in." I know that some states require garbage disposals and dishwashers to be plugged in. That makes little sense to me because it is not unconceivable that the plug could get bumped and come partly unplugged which could create an unsafe situation. View Quote Thanks for your input. I will likely just hard wire it. What is your opinion on the InSinkErator Badger 15SS 3/4 horse? I don't want to spend more than $150. |
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What does the box look like that is in the wall now?
Octagon? Typical rectangular outlet box? |
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It would seem to me, that the only reason that any code would require a receptacle is to also require a ground fault receptacle. Most states have a code that requires any receptacle within x number of feet of any tub or sink. With that said, I will also say I do not know too much about code.
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Quoted:Thanks for your input. I will likely just hard wire it.
What is your opinion on the InSinkErator Badger 15SS 3/4 horse? I don't want to spend more than $150. View Quote I'd never go less than 3/4 hp. The 1/2 horse get jammed up pretty easily and generally have less sound insulation. InSinkErator does make a good disposal and has been doing it forever. The Kenmore 70351 3/4 Horsepower is ten bucks over your limit and has a five year in home warranty and will grind faster. Where in Pennsylvania are you located? |
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Quoted:
I watched some guy on YouTube say it is now required in Pennsylvania (where I am) to have an outlet and plug the disposal in. Can anyone confirm? View Quote It must be true then!! Maybe for new construction... but in my 1850 house I do whatever I want with my wiring :-) |
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I'd never go less than 3/4 hp. The 1/2 horse get jammed up pretty easily and generally have less sound insulation. InSinkErator does make a good disposal and has been doing it forever. The Kenmore 70351 3/4 Horsepower is ten bucks over your limit and has a five year in home warranty and will grind faster. Where in Pennsylvania are you located? View Quote State College |
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It will only take a few minutes to put an outlet under there. View Quote I just replaced one a few months ago and I converted the hard wire set-up to a plug. Bought a Waste King at Home Depot and if I ever need to replace it, it will take me no more than 15 minutes to do so. Just loosen the collar, unplug and remove the original, then slide the new one into the same collar then plug in. |
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I just replaced one a few months ago and I converted the hard wire set-up to a plug. Bought a Waste King at Home Depot and if I ever need to replace it, it will take me no more than 15 minutes to do so. Just loosen the collar, unplug and remove the original, then slide the new one into the same collar then plug in. View Quote Even hardwired shouldn't take more than fifteen minutes to replace because all you need to do is unhook the wires from the bottom of the unit, take the old one out (30 seconds), put the new one in (1 minute), hook up the wires to the bottom. |
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Quoted:
Hardwiring is fine. It is run from a switch, so the switch is your code required "disconnecting means". The reason most have cords and plugs on them now is that we put switched receptacles in sink base cabinets so the disposal plugs into the 1/2 powered by a switch and the dishwasher plugs into the other 1/2 that's powered on the time so both have an accessible disconnecting means. View Quote This thread's shocking and nobodys going to fault you for watt you do but this guy gave the only factual advice: You need a disconnecting means per NEC. A plug or a switch satisfy that code requirement. Also, if within 6' of a sink, which it is, it is required to be gfci type rec |
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What ever happened to the good old days where you just wired everything right to the breaker and used that as a switch......the country is full of sissies these days.
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Get the Binford Trash Slasher.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UD1VCJvoDQ[/youtube] |
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Put the damn thing on a cord and outlet. As of the 2014 NEC updates all disposals are required to be GFCI on install. A switch above the countertop no longer meets the criteria for a readily available disconnect.
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When we redid our small kitchen a couple years ago, we reuse the sink and garbage disposal but I converted the wiring to a plug so we could unplug it if necessary.
Wire a plug on the garbage disposal, convert the existing wire in the wall to an outlet that's hidden under the sink anyway so no one will see if it's pretty. |
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Put the damn thing on a cord and outlet. As of the 2014 NEC updates all disposals are required to be GFCI on install. A switch above the countertop no longer meets the criteria for a readily available disconnect. View Quote Do you a link to where we can find this? I tried googling but didn't find anything. |
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If hooking up to a dish washer, make sure to knock the "plug" out of the disposal or your dishwasher will not drain.
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I like the plug in install. That way I have a positive disconnect when I have to work on a clog or remove something from I side the disposal. The switch is just one helpful idiot away from being switched on in an attempt to turn on the over sink light. I also installed a switch cover for the disposal switch. Two layers of safety when working on a piece of equipment that will remove fingers.
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The last two houses I have owned both had a plug for the disposal. That said, if you don't already have a plug under the sink, I would just wire it up the way it is now.
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Quoted:
FIFY I bought a waste king on amazon about a year ago and cannot be happier. Think it was the 7000. It was less than half the price of the Insinkerator brand. It is a boss, and has a lifetime warranty. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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FIFY I bought a waste king on amazon about a year ago and cannot be happier. Think it was the 7000. It was less than half the price of the Insinkerator brand. It is a boss, and has a lifetime warranty. Waste King FTW. Mine shit the bed after about 2-years. They had someone out in 2-3 days to replace it, no questions asked, no money out of my pocket. They also sent out a highly reputable locally owned appliance company to do the work. |
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If you use a cord cap and receptacle you don't need a disconnecting means.
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Just replaced mine this past week. Started leaking out the bottom of it ( I guess an internal seal went bad)
Mine was wired from a switch straight into the unit. If you are slightly handy at all and the one without a plug is cheaper I would go that route (assuming its within code) |
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I would put a GFCI outlet in just because it could alleviate any future problems with inspectors and it would make removal/installation much easier if you need to work on it.
If you have the money to spend, I would go with one of the nicer Insinkerators (not the badger). I installed a 1hp Waste King at my last house and, although it didn't give me any problems, it was noisy as hell. It also made a bunch of weird knocking sounds which Waste King told me was normal. My neighbor bought one of the upper tier Insinkerators and it was much, much quieter. I also found that the rubber drain cover (the plate with a hole and slits to allow water/food to go down) on the Waste King was not designed quite as well as the Insinkerator one. I ended up having to cut some length off the tips of those rubber fingers to allow it to drain correctly. |
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