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Posted: 6/17/2003 10:12:18 AM EDT
So I bought a used Suburban, a 1995 1500 model with 2wd and about 120k miles.  First, any problems I should expect to have with this vehicle?  Second, any good web sites for Suburban fans?  I have found these already:

[url]http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban-0902/[/url]
[url]http://bbs.off-road.com/[/url]
[url]http://www.chevytalk.org[/url]

GunLvr
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:26:43 AM EDT
[#1]
I have a '92 GMC Suburban. 126,000 mi. Troubles I have dealt with are few. The windshield wiper controler had an intermittent problem. About half the time, the wipers wouldnt work. I fixed that with a piece of cardboard between the circuit board & the plastic cover. The front brake lines (rubber part) were bad & the brakes would stick. Rear hatch struts need to be replaced unless you have ambulance doors & the AC needed charging. We have enjoyed ours very much. It's a bit much truck for just the wife & 2 dogs, but I got it for a song.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:31:00 AM EDT
[#2]
They're great vehicles with delicate transmissions.  If you're not towing and are willing to pay $1500-$2500 for an overhaul or better yet GM replacement every so often you should be happy.  If you want something more reliable and are willing to give up overdrive, consider swapping in a TH400 when yours gives up.  You'll have to buy or make a tailhousing with a vehicle speed sensor provision, fab or modify your crossmember, driveshaft, and possibly reflash the PCM.  You can do all this and still spend less than having the factory transmission replaced.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:48:18 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
So I bought a used Suburban, a 1995 1500 model with 2wd and about 120k miles.  First, any problems I should expect to have with this vehicle?  Second, any good web sites for Suburban fans?  I have found these already:

[url]http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban-0902/[/url]
[url]http://bbs.off-road.com/[/url]
[url]http://www.chevytalk.org[/url]

GunLvr
View Quote

The arfcom of 'burbs is [url]http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban0103/[/url]...same url you have above but the Sept.02 board was archived...they go a few months & when they fill up vmag starts a new one...hokey software but a VERY complete source of knowledge.

[url]http://subtopics.freeyellow.com/subtopics.htm[/url] is the 'burb topics page; it's almost a shop manual on the web.  It's basically about 5 years worth of knowledge from the vmag board arranged by topic.  It's updated every couple of months.

[url]http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual%20Lookup/cal_ModelLookup.html[/url] is a pretty complete Chilton's shop manual on the web.  Plug in your make and model year & go.

Factory shop manual is the best money you can spend on your truck if you do your own work.  [url]www.helminc.com[/url] is the place...not sure if they go back 8 years.

Some transmissions go for 250K, a lot tank around 100K.  A remanf'd GoodWrench is around $2K installed.  Rear brake adjusters do not work, so do a manual adjustment with every oil change.  Wiper problem was fixed with a recall & new circuit board.  I'd replace all fluids with synthetics.

Sorry for the long post; IM me if you need more.
-hanko  (Steve in ID on the vmag 'burb board)
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:48:41 AM EDT
[#4]
1995 should have a 4L60E tranny, regular half-ton tranny that should hold up to any half-ton usage.  at 120,000 i'd give it a tune up if the previous owner hasnt done that in a while.  at that amount of wear you might want to have someone go through the front end and replace any worn parts.  check regular areas like brakes, rear end oil, etc.......  depending on how it was driven you might also start having problems with engine wear which may lead to needing a freshen up on it as well (new bearings, rings, bore job, etc......)  but i assume it has a 350, and if it does it aint no big deal at all.  too bad its not a '96 though, would have had a vortec engine and thus a good deal more power........
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 12:14:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the advice everyone.  I will get the front end checked out--I have a really good mechanic and he will do the state safety inspection which does pay attention to tie rods, steering linkage, etc.  I will watch the transmission too--I plan to get a BG transmission flush done on it unless the fluid is burned (but I  think the fluid is fine).  

Also I appreciate the additional links to Suburban forums and technical info.  I like to read as much as I can about my vehicles.

GunLvr
1995 GMC Suburban (5.7L 2wd)
1994 Buick Lesabre
1988 Dodge Caravan
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 12:19:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I have a '92 GMC Suburban. 126,000 mi. Troubles I have dealt with are few. The windshield wiper controler had an intermittent problem. About half the time, the wipers wouldnt work. I fixed that with a piece of cardboard between the circuit board & the plastic cover.
View Quote


I had the same problem with my 92 pickup - fixed it by grounding one of the screws on the plastic cover (if I remember correctly) & did the same on my bosses '94 Z71.
CR
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 12:25:12 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
So I bought a used Suburban, a 1995 1500 model with 2wd and about 120k miles.  First, any problems I should expect to have with this vehicle?  Second, any good web sites for Suburban fans?  I have found these already:

[url]http://forums.vmag.com/suvsuburban-0902/[/url]
[url]http://bbs.off-road.com/[/url]
[url]http://www.chevytalk.org[/url]

GunLvr
View Quote


I have a Z-71 (5.7L) so many things are common.  I have had a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) go out, causing erratic shifting and the windshield wiper motor fail (fixed under a good will type warranty by GM...very nice).  Other than that just regular maintenance (102,000 miles) brakes, radiator flush, trans flush and tires.  Pretty satisfied all in all.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 2:58:01 PM EDT
[#8]
I've been told that the fuel pumps tend to go bad quite often. I have the same chassis as You and I didn't heed the warnings about the pump or the trany.....I've got 110,000 on Mine and have had to replace both. fuel pump was a PITA!

Tall Shadow
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 3:35:15 PM EDT
[#9]
First replace, don't check, all belts and hoses unless the previous owner did it in the last two years.  This includes a heater hose which is a dealer only item on some vehicles, has a fitting that comes crimped on.  next, do a stantard tuneup, check the ignition module on the dist for bad contacts, corrosion etc.  if it dies, it will leave  you in traffic or worse.  the weakness on the tranny is mostly on the planetary gears, but a good transmission shop should get it build to hold up, just install a new torque convertor, BM or TCI make good units for RV type work.  two ways to avoid pump problems is to run it at least half full most of the time, and change the filter every 12,000 miles.  the filter is just too damn small!  Check your diff for leaks, can get expensive if you burn it up.  More power is availble from a flowmaster big block muffler, and some sort of free flowing airfilter with a TB spacer.  the belt has an idler to provide tension, if it goes bad the belt will come off check that.  Great vehicles, take care of them and they will take care of you.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 3:42:57 PM EDT
[#10]
If you bought it from the Drug Enforcement Agency have it taken completely apart and thoroughly searched for illicit substances and Cuban cigars.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 4:25:46 PM EDT
[#11]
I gotta try those wiper fixes on my 90 p/u .  Mine always works but doesn't stop or change speeds all the time.  They do look 180 out though.  One is getting a better ground and the other seems to be removing a ground.  
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 4:30:57 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Bought a Used Suburban, Need Advice
View Quote



Sell it.





[;D]
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 4:41:47 PM EDT
[#13]
good advice on the throttle body spacer, about 90 bucks, couple of bolts, but you get some fuel economy and HP out of it and you can do it yourself.

for power also look into an exhaust and computer programmer.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 4:58:26 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks for the links.  I've got a '99 Tahoe (suburban minus 18").
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 5:05:27 PM EDT
[#15]

I believe pretty much everything has been covered, but I would reiterate a close inspection of the quick-disconnect fitting where the heater hose connects to the intake manifold; they like to leak and are not an easy fix.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to change the rear differential gear oil either, unless the rear end has already started to whine; in that case you are ready for a ring and pinion.

Flush the cooling system. Sometimes people unwittingly add green antifreeze to systems that have Dexcool Extended-life coolant. The two fluids do not mix; it turns the coolant into orange toothpaste.

The oil cooling lines like to leak at the adapter where the oil filter is ordinarily mounted at the left rear of the block. The O-rings wear out, but it is best to replace the whole line. They are not expensive and are now available at Carquest.

The thottle-body 350 may not have quite the same power as the Vortec, but you're better off with the throttle-body system. It is more durable and less expensive to repair if the need arises. The Vortec uses a big "spider" injector that is prone to leaking internally and is expensive to repair.

Panzer Out





Link Posted: 6/17/2003 5:21:43 PM EDT
[#16]
[url=http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php3?s=&forumid=12]The 1947-1998 Chevy & GMC Pickups Message Board[/url]
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 5:27:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 5:30:13 PM EDT
[#18]
Windshield Wipers---

The contacts on the circuit board will crack and the wipers will start working very sporadically. Just resolder the cracked spots and they will work fine. GM gharges about $75 for a new board. I've fixed several like this. E-mail me with any questions. This applies to all pick-ups, suburbans, and tahoes.

Fuel Filter---

Located on the frame rail right under the driver's door. Change it every 3 or 4 months. Clogged filters caused too much pressure and burn up the fuel pumps.

Transmissions---

DO NOT tow anything in overdrive. This can double the life of your transmission.  Also change the fluid once a year.

Intake manifold---

Get ready for it to leak in the back. It will.

Heater hose quick-connect---

Keep a close eye on this fitting. Eventually it will corrode and leak. It is very difficult to change once it corrodes and will most likely break off in the manifold. they are cheap from the dealership and easy to fix if you catch it soon enough.

If you have swing out doors on the back, check the weatherstripping for shrinkage. eventually it will shrink enough to leak.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 5:38:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Heater hose quick-connect---

Keep a close eye on this fitting. Eventually it will corrode and leak. It is very difficult to change once it corrodes and will most likely break off in the manifold. they are cheap from the dealership and easy to fix if you catch it soon enough.

.
View Quote

Just did a water pump on my 95 pickup. Auto Zone has a fitting that screws in wher the factory lines attach. Then you just use plain old heater hose.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 7:09:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Thanks!  You guys really know your trucks.  This Suburban doesn't have the towing package, and no hitch or anything.  I'll definitely be putting synthetic fluids into it.  I am pretty easy on cars and I'll probably only put 5k or 6k miles on it each year.  Until last year I drove a 1979 Lesabre (301ci engine) and it lasted 23 years and over 165k miles on the original engine and transmission.  I am looking forward to getting behind an 8-cyl motor again.

GunLvr
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 7:31:55 PM EDT
[#21]
there has been a recall for the wiper troubles(91 thru 96), GunLvrPhd, I have 2 95's a chevy Z71 PU and a GMC Yukon both have the same engine as yours and run great, one thing I would check is the radiator, several friends with similar trucks had problems around the 120,000 mark.....enjoy
Tom
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 8:15:16 PM EDT
[#22]
The owner's manual for the 1997 model says that you can tow in overdrive, just not uphill. Is that still a bad idea? We have mostly flat terrain around here.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 8:25:34 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
The owner's manual for the 1997 model says that you can tow in overdrive, just not uphill. Is that still a bad idea? We have mostly flat terrain around here.
View Quote


I still would not recommend it. Most transmissions I've seen burn up were used towing in overdrive.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:08:38 AM EDT
[#24]
Change the intake coolant fitting out if possible.

mine snapped off one day and it was a pain to get the old threaded part out. I had to drill and tap it.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:29:30 AM EDT
[#25]
Thanks everyone!  I will post pics of the vehicle when it arrives.

No pics yet but the vehicle is here and it looks great, drive nice, and it's huge.  Wife, baby, two dogs, and all camping gear will easily fit into the Suburban.  Passed the state safety inspection with no problems.  Next I will be having a shop flush all the fluids and I'll replace the oil with synthetic (Mobil-1).  I will also put new plugs (AC/Delco Rapidfire) in soon.  Transmission fluid looks a little marginal, and the radiator was low on coolant.  I'll know more by the weekend.

GunLvr
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