Let me guess, they made things more complicated so folks couldn't work on them?  

 

Timing belt probably jumped a couple teeth.

Good luck

Check fuel pressure and clean the throttle body while you tune it up (also check air filter condition).

It was probably misfiring for a while before the light came on. It just wasn't bad enough for the code to come on. You can try to fix it yourself by replacing the coil and plug at cylinder 1. Advanced auto or pepboys should have the parts in stock.

2010 jeeps still use spark plug wires?

I wouldnt. good way to destroy your cats.

Good point, OP how far is the drive from work to home?

Plugs, plug wires, and coil.

Start there.

Probably lost spark to one of your cylinders, once the engine is spinning fast enough momentum makes up for the loss.

1 Disco was enough for me.   But I have been looking again

P0301 is a Cylinder 1 Misfire.

What engine is in your Jeep? More then likely it is a coil on plug and will not have wires. The early 5.7 Hemi's had wires but have now been converted to COP.

Most Jeeps use standard, Champion plugs. They are recommended to be changed by the factory manual every 30k. If you have any mechanical abilities, you can pull the #1 plug and inspect for carbon tracking, worn electrode etc. I'd replace the plugs with OE Champions, no need to use anything special. and swap the coil with one on the opposite side of the engine and retest. IF you do find Carbon tracking, it is necessary to replace the coil boot.

IF the misfire returns after swapping the coil and replacing the plug, pull the code and see if your misfire is now on the cylinder you swapped coils with. You then need to replace that coil.

lmao..these threads are great for picking out the automotive ignorant.

unsafe, imagine if it stalls on the railroad tracks and a freight train comes roaring in and turns the car into a pile of scrap metal, or you can't accelerate to get out of the way of a semi, etc etc

 
Shut up you thief.  How dare you insinuate that it takes more then a 5 dollar scan tool and duct tape to fix a car.

change the plugs, give it some injector cleaner

nailed it.

Just change the plugs and wires (boots if it has cops).  if that doesn't do it buy a coil for cylinder #1.  I wouldn't pay a shop to do plugs, they will hit you with 1 hour labor for diagnosis and 1 hr to do the plugs that you can do with a couple sockets.  Just make sure you grease both ends of the boots or wires with spark plug grease.

 
It really depends on what engine he has.

Why is everyone convinced it is a secondary ignition problem? Throwing parts at cars gets expensive quick. It is best to work on a diagnostic plan. Google P0301...




Test the O2 sensor. Test the fuel pressure. Do a backpressure test on the cat.. Cylinder compression tests..

Points are worn..  A coat hanger and some duct tape and shes as good as new.

LOL.

LOL

LOL

You realize not all cars are coil on plug right?  Some still have wires.

Why...

Does a 2010 Jeep have a distributor, rotor, cap, wires , coil, or points? Because that is what the OP is asking about

ETA - and obviously I am referring to a stand alone coil

How many still have a cap and rotor?

Jesus Christ.

TC

Lots of new(er) vehicles have 100K miles plugs.. My 2009 GM does.

Which engine?

A lot of chryslers are still on 30k intervals iirc.

Abandon all hope ye who enter here.

lol.

Those kinds of posts always crack me up. Are you a parts changer or a technician?

If the former, which part are you going to go buy first to see if it fixes the problem?  Second? Third? At what point have you spent more than what you planned on and still have the code and symptoms?

If the latter, what would you test first?


One year olds...






ETA: Unless you are LOL'ing at the Google results for that code, cause I LOL'd too. A misfire can be fucking caused by nearly anything. There are a lot of parts to change without some diagnostics. Test what you can, at least. Even start with some carb cleaner and look for a vacuum leak.

 
_lol_

the oxygen sensor part is whats funny. I would love someone to tell me how a oxygen sensor caused a single cyl misfire (or any misfire for that matter) its a google cut and paste that goes from plausible to silly. a few experts have chimed in, and the sage advice to not drive the vehicle due to a potential catalyst melt down was given, the OP ignored



I'm a technician, and shop owner. if one of my techs told me the oxygen sensor was causing the misfire I would tell them its probably time for the tool box to go to the tire store, I'm not going to buy any parts to see what fixes it, I'm going to diagnose it correctly then replace what needs to be replaced.

here's the deal, its really easy to diagnose a misfire, and everyone is making it so goddamn complicated and wanting to change shit modern cars don't even have.

simple diagnosis to a misfire, Identify the cyl, the most likely its a coil in plug system, it would take minuets to swap the coil with another cyl and check to see if the misfire moves, if it does you need a coil.

if not, pull the plug and inspect, check the insulator and the ground/ electrode for wear, it should be pretty obvious. 99% chance its in one of these two parts.

if not, next check is obviously injector, unplug the coils and crank it, check to see if there is fuel in the cyl.

if no fuel check using the amp clamp and o-scope the wave pattern of the injector vs the voltage signal from the ECU, particularly if its direct injection. this is obviously beyond what you can check in your yard.

if you have fuel, and spark, its time to inspect for a compression issue, which is unlikely in this case. a cracked valve is going to have a constant misfire and a flashing CEL. worn rings causing low compression the misfire will clear up as engine speed increases off idle. at 100k miles its unlikely unless the vehicle is very poorly maintained. rings are a easy check, check compression, add a bit of oil and if it comes up temporarily the rings are worn.

In short, its either a plug or a coil, though it sounds like he's working on getting a new catalytic converter too.

Hopefully it isn't something related to the timing chain.

My Ford had timing chain issues. It ran like a spark plug wasn't working. It was rough. Then it started making the noises one day. Thankfully the timing chain was replaced before the engine said aloha snack bar. I'm sure that sound would have been glorious in the bad sort of way.

 
Jeep does not shut down individual injectors for a missfire if I remember correctly, but I work on German so I could be wrong.  BMW is nice enough if you have a dead miss to kill the injector to that cylinder so you don't kill the cat.

Thanks for clarifying your post AgeOne.  I agree, a lot of diagnostics are beyond the shade tree mechanics abilities or tool availabilities, but you can still eliminate some issues at home with voltmeters, fuel pressure tests, etc. Tests at home are free, parts to try out are expensive and usually not returnable (electronics). If the OP had the knowledge, swapping coil packs from other cylinders may be an option. I don't think at this point there is enough vehicle info to help any more. A bad fuel pump at 100K miles wouldn't surprise me.

I am not sure if the OP was looking for help fixing this vehicle, or just wondering about safety.  As noted above by another, you might need all the get-up-and-go the thing has when it is running right, but it might not be there and leave you in a tight spot.

Cheers-

I also only work on German vehicles (VW/ Audi), I wasn't aware injector shutoff was functional on anything but MED 17.5+ (UDS) systems. I know the older ME systems don't and MED 17.2 doesn't because I've replaced cats on them (Q7 4.2, cracked insulator, by the time he got here, the cat was a rock and it wouldn't rev past 2500 with misfires 5-8 above idle)  it would have been a $150 tow.... ended up being a cat too.

UDS is a whole new ballgame, its gonna be funny watching eveyrone play catchup with this one