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Posted: 5/3/2015 3:04:30 PM EDT
Need to weld a ball joint that has a loose fit to a lower control arm. All I have is a Lincoln Mig / wire feed welder. Disonnect battery and Im good or should I remove the harness to the ECM also?
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:05:52 PM EDT
[#1]
I don't do either to weld on the Ranger.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:11:30 PM EDT
[#2]
I would unhook the battery. Probably not needed, but better safe than sorry.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:16:47 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
I would unhook the battery. Probably not needed, but better safe than sorry.

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This.


Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:18:37 PM EDT
[#4]
I never worried about such things....and in all the years at the autoshop...never had a catastrophe or problem.



The only problem I see is that if your control arm is hosed out....get a different one.


Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:19:14 PM EDT
[#5]
How long does it take and how much does it cost to disconnect a battery ?
How long does it take and how much does it cost to replace an ECM ?

Better safe than sorry.



Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:23:54 PM EDT
[#6]
A friend was welding on a golf cart, about 30 seconds in to it the battery blew up...so I always spend the 15 seconds to pull the negative off the battery.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:24:24 PM EDT
[#7]
I have welded on several trucks over the years and never disconnected anything.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:26:53 PM EDT
[#8]
What kind of vehicle?

I'm just curious of the style of ball joint. That could end very badly for the driver.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:26:58 PM EDT
[#9]
Aren't you supposed to put the "ground" clamp as close to the spot to weld anyway?

You know, path of least resistance, or something like that.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:29:02 PM EDT
[#10]
I almost never do, just keep the ground clamp close to the work.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:33:38 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:



This.


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Quoted:
Quoted:
I would unhook the battery. Probably not needed, but better safe than sorry.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile



This.




Yep....
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:34:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Exhaust shops weld on cars everyday without disconnecting anything.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:35:55 PM EDT
[#13]
I would probably buy a new control arm.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:37:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:37:35 PM EDT
[#15]
Its never a bad idea to disconnect .... it takes little effort - is free - could save a big $ PITA $
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:39:10 PM EDT
[#16]
It's not a problem to weld without disconnecting them. It I would just because it's easy enough for a little insurance. I'm sure you have a rubber or poly pushing insulating the arm from the frame.

A better question is why are you welding to a balljoint?
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:39:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:39:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Your vehicle or someone else?

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:44:55 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
I would probably buy a new control arm.
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I would see if an oversized ball joint in available for the vehicle first. Moog makes larger ball joints for many applications and the are about the same price as a standard ball joint. .  I ran into this issue when replacing my ball joints and using an oversized ball joint was cheapest and easiest way to go.  

ETA: Here is a bulletin explaining the oversized ball joints http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 3:59:59 PM EDT
[#20]
99 chevy suburban. New ball joint with loose fit. Just welded it in place. Next time will buy a new arm. Good to go.



Disconnected battery before starting the job. Truck fired right up afterwards. Job is done.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 4:02:45 PM EDT
[#21]
How about disconnect the battery and place your ground clamp on the ground wire of the battery.  Then everyones happy right?  



Link Posted: 5/3/2015 4:13:03 PM EDT
[#22]
I'm glad it went ok for you. I disconnect the battery just to be safe. The main thing it to have the ground clamp close to where you are welding.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 5:57:12 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I almost never do, just keep the ground clamp close to the work.
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Link Posted: 5/3/2015 7:21:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Standard protocol in my former fab shop was to disconnect all batteries on anything being welded on.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 7:33:41 PM EDT
[#25]


Link Posted: 5/3/2015 7:38:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Welded on all types of machinery with way more expensive electronics than an ECM, never disconnected anything, never a problem.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 8:28:47 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:
Exhaust shops weld on cars everyday without disconnecting anything.
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Yep. They'll weld pipe inches away from the O2 sensors without a care in the world.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 9:20:18 PM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:
Aren't you supposed to put the "ground" clamp as close to the spot to weld anyway?

You know, path of least resistance, or something like that.
View Quote



Not necessarily.  There has been instances on Air tractor airframe repairs where the arc has "jumped" across the engine bearings on a PT6.  Seizing the bearing, and requiring and engine overhaul.

That's why most airframe repairs on them call for oxy fuel welds if the engine is on the aircraft.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:16:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Disconnect the battery.  It seems when you weld on something with the battery still connected it drains it the few times I have seen it happen.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:20:48 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Need to weld a ball joint that has a loose fit to a lower control arm. All I have is a Lincoln Mig / wire feed welder. Disonnect battery and Im good or should I remove the harness to the ECM also?
View Quote


It would be good to disconnect the battery... Such is SOP

It would be better to get a new control arm.

If the fix you are preparing doesn't  work, the control  arm could break and send you careening off a cliff. You won't be thinking, "damn I wish I would have disconnected the battery" as you fly at terminal velocity towards youre most certain demise.














Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:30:35 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
99 chevy suburban. New ball joint with loose fit. Just welded it in place. Next time will buy a new arm. Good to go.

Disconnected battery before starting the job. Truck fired right up afterwards. Job is done.
View Quote


You may not have fried any ECUs but I think your new ball joint may not last.  The residual heat from the welding baked it.  You just melted a fair amount of steel right onto it...

If it's a beater and doesn't get used much maybe it's no big deal.  But ball joints are kind of important.

A fresh grease purge wouldn't be a bad idea.

Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:32:24 PM EDT
[#32]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I would see if an oversized ball joint in available for the vehicle first. Moog makes larger ball joints for many applications and the are about the same price as a standard ball joint. .  I ran into this issue when replacing my ball joints and using an oversized ball joint was cheapest and easiest way to go.  



ETA: Here is a bulletin explaining the oversized ball joints http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf

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Quoted:



Quoted:

I would probably buy a new control arm.




I would see if an oversized ball joint in available for the vehicle first. Moog makes larger ball joints for many applications and the are about the same price as a standard ball joint. .  I ran into this issue when replacing my ball joints and using an oversized ball joint was cheapest and easiest way to go.  



ETA: Here is a bulletin explaining the oversized ball joints http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf



Welding on a possibly cast piece sounds like a great idea.....ermm maybe not.



 
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:36:29 PM EDT
[#33]
I think the disconnecting of the battery is the least of your worries...  Welding ball joints and all.
Link Posted: 5/3/2015 11:53:40 PM EDT
[#34]
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 12:28:58 AM EDT
[#35]
New control arm perhaps? I have welded on vehicles before but somethings are just better off replaced control arms are one of them,
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 12:32:54 AM EDT
[#36]
Loose fitting ball joint sounds like a disaster in the making. So does burning it in.

As far as the welding melting computers, put the ground clamp in a place that will not let the welding arc run through the whole damned chassis.
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 12:35:08 AM EDT
[#37]
If it makes you feel better, go for it.
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 12:46:18 AM EDT
[#38]

Quoted:


Need to weld a ball joint that has a loose fit to a lower control arm. All I have is a Lincoln Mig / wire feed welder. Disonnect battery and Im good or should I remove the harness to the ECM also?
View Quote








 
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 12:50:33 AM EDT
[#39]
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Quoted:


I hope you're a good welder, and understand how critical ball joints and control arms are to wheels not flying the fuck off your vehicle...
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Quoted:
Quoted:
99 chevy suburban. New ball joint with loose fit. Just welded it in place. Next time will buy a new arm. Good to go.

Disconnected battery before starting the job. Truck fired right up afterwards. Job is done.


I hope you're a good welder, and understand how critical ball joints and control arms are to wheels not flying the fuck off your vehicle...

This.

Special emphasis should be put on the wheel flying the fuck off. Most likely at the worst possible time.
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 8:45:16 AM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I would see if an oversized ball joint in available for the vehicle first. Moog makes larger ball joints for many applications and the are about the same price as a standard ball joint. .  I ran into this issue when replacing my ball joints and using an oversized ball joint was cheapest and easiest way to go.  

ETA: Here is a bulletin explaining the oversized ball joints http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I would probably buy a new control arm.


I would see if an oversized ball joint in available for the vehicle first. Moog makes larger ball joints for many applications and the are about the same price as a standard ball joint. .  I ran into this issue when replacing my ball joints and using an oversized ball joint was cheapest and easiest way to go.  

ETA: Here is a bulletin explaining the oversized ball joints http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf


Moog ball joints are shit. There are instances of them failing within 200 miles of installation.

OP, I can't even begin to describe how bad of an idea it is to weld to a ball joint. I pray for your safety that this is just a farm truck and not one that ever sees a highway. That way when it fails at least you don't have a chance of losing control and taking out a family headed to the movies or something.
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 8:50:37 AM EDT
[#41]
If you are worried about the ECM when you weld ball joints in you are missing the fucking point.
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 8:59:02 AM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 8:59:17 AM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 5/4/2015 9:02:16 AM EDT
[#44]
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