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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:12:46 PM EDT
[#1]
The only thing I could think of that would stop the engine in the belt drive system on the engine would be the A/C compressor. My Mercedes would do pretty much what you described occasionally. Then one day the engine seemingly ceased, Starter wouldn't even turn it. I unplugged the A/C clutch and the car started right up. Dumb founded I plugged the A/C clutch back in and the engine quit on the spot.
That being said, p0715 is a transmission fault, the ECM monitors two sensors for RPM differential, The computer knows what gear is the trans is in and what gear is commanded. It uses that info to determine what line pressure is needed in the valve body to prevent wear and make the transmission work properly. If one sensor is reading outside of the variables the computer will throw a code indicating an issue. There are four possible causes. - Faulty Transmission Speed Sensor - Transmission Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted - Transmission Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection -Worst case scenario. Bad transmission. Eg, Bad clutches, out of spec valve body components, bad shift solonoid, etc etc. It is possible that the transmission can cause a stall if the sensors are reading improperly, but one would think the sound would not be coming from the belts or pullys. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:13:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Water pump?
Front main bearing? Timing chain/gear? |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:19:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Water pump? Front main bearing? Timing chain/gear? Highly doubt it. Front main bearing would make some nasty noises and be fairly constant I would think. You would probably notice oil pressure issues also. I have never heard a timing chain gear squeak. I have heard timing chains slap/clank. The timing chain gear is connected to the end of the cam shaft, Unless that motor is much different than the engines I have worked in. 
Water pump? Maybe, again I would think It would be noticeable. Can you wobble the nose of the water pump? You could pull the belt and see if it turns quietly and freely by hand. If it is rough or has play then it is definitely crapped out. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:20:28 PM EDT
[#4]
Like said it could be the AC compressor .... most people don’t know that it cycles / runs with the defroster on.
Unplug the wire going to its magnetic clutch |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:22:00 PM EDT
[#5]
pull the belt off and spin every pulley..most likely a bearing going bad........
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:25:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
pull the belt off and spin every pulley..most likely a bearing going bad........ Good advise. Check everything with the belt off. Spin the alternator pulley, water pump, tensioners ... anything that spins and has a bearing. Check for noise, wobble, side play and anything generally out of the ordinary. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:30:37 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Toyota Tundra 4.7 Liter V8 The engine runs fine, sounds fine, all the gauges read okay. However.... An intermittent rattle and/or squeal from the serpentine belt and/or pulleys on the front end. Generally stops on its own pretty quickly. Switching the AC switch position does not change the noise, or I would suspect AC compressor pulley clutch. Power steering is fine. Alternator/electrical is fine. When it does make these noises, they are not very loud. The belt looks okay. When the engine is running, the primary pulley (where the cooling fan attaches) might have a slight wobble, but that might be me being paranoid. With the engine off, all the pulley look okay and don't have any wobble if you grab them and pull. This problem started yesterday, briefly, then went away. Today I drove to the gym, definitely intermittent weird noises from the front end, pulley area. Still no gauge problems, engine has normal power, etc. Then, at 25mph, I hear a brief high pitched squeek, and the truck actually stalled. I coasted to a stop, fired it up, drove home, no problems or noise. This made the trouble light come on... Trouble Code--P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction My normal mechanic is slammed today and I cannot get it in. Any ideas? First off the input speed sensor circuit fault is for the input speed for the transmission. Input speed is used to measure torque converter lockup and transmission slippage when compared to output speed shaft sensors, it also helps the pcm command other transmission functions, it is a critical part of electronic transmission operation. Sounds like there may be 2 different problems going on here. The bearing where the fan bolts to is an idler type bearing and they have been known to fail, I have replaced a couple of them. You need to get it looked at by someone that is competent. The bearing or belt squeal will not cause the engine stall. But the ISS failure can cause TC lockup prematurely and could have caused the engine to stall if conditions are correct, can also cause the transmission to upshift into high gear causing a stall as well. The fact that it is a Circuit fault will usually mean that the PCM is seeing there is a resistance change in that particular circuit. Usually it can be a reference voltage problem, open in the wiring or connectors, open in the sensor, or a logic fault in the PCM. nine times out of 10 it will be a faulty sensor or an open in a wire ( we find a lot of wires chewed up by rodents) |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:32:23 PM EDT
[#8]
It needs some Italian food.
Don't know but this is a btt. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:34:57 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only thing I could think of that would stop the engine in the belt drive system on the engine would be the A/C compressor. My Mercedes would do pretty much what you described occasionally. Then one day the engine seemingly ceased, Starter wouldn't even turn it. I unplugged the A/C clutch and the car started right up. Dumb founded I plugged the A/C clutch back in and the engine quit on the spot. That being said, p0715 is a transmission fault, the ECM monitors two sensors for RPM differential, The computer knows what gear is the trans is in and what gear is commanded. It uses that info to determine what line pressure is needed in the valve body to prevent wear and make the transmission work properly. If one sensor is reading outside of the variables the computer will throw a code indicating an issue. There are four possible causes. - Faulty Transmission Speed Sensor - Transmission Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted - Transmission Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection -Worst case scenario. Bad transmission. Eg, Bad clutches, out of spec valve body components, bad shift solonoid, etc etc. It is possible that the transmission can cause a stall if the sensors are reading improperly, but one would think the sound would not be coming from the belts or pullys. I did some Googling and found at least one thing saying that on the Toyota 4.7 the 0715 trouble code refers to the speed off of the primary pulley... which is exactly where the noise is from. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:39:39 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
pull the belt off and spin every pulley..most likely a bearing going bad........ Smart move, divide and conquer when performing diagnostics. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:40:01 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did some Googling and found at least one thing saying that on the Toyota 4.7 the 0715 trouble code refers to the speed off of the primary pulley... which is exactly where the noise is from. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The only thing I could think of that would stop the engine in the belt drive system on the engine would be the A/C compressor. My Mercedes would do pretty much what you described occasionally. Then one day the engine seemingly ceased, Starter wouldn't even turn it. I unplugged the A/C clutch and the car started right up. Dumb founded I plugged the A/C clutch back in and the engine quit on the spot. That being said, p0715 is a transmission fault, the ECM monitors two sensors for RPM differential, The computer knows what gear is the trans is in and what gear is commanded. It uses that info to determine what line pressure is needed in the valve body to prevent wear and make the transmission work properly. If one sensor is reading outside of the variables the computer will throw a code indicating an issue. There are four possible causes. - Faulty Transmission Speed Sensor - Transmission Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted - Transmission Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection -Worst case scenario. Bad transmission. Eg, Bad clutches, out of spec valve body components, bad shift solonoid, etc etc. It is possible that the transmission can cause a stall if the sensors are reading improperly, but one would think the sound would not be coming from the belts or pullys. I did some Googling and found at least one thing saying that on the Toyota 4.7 the 0715 trouble code refers to the speed off of the primary pulley... which is exactly where the noise is from. Some vehicles use the Crankshaft position sensor as the ISS, since the crankshaft rpm should be the input rpm through the torque converter. I would suggest not driving the vehicle, sounds like the possibility the timing belt may be coming apart and interrupted the crank shaft sensor signal. I am pretty sure the reluctor sandwiches in between the crank gear for the timing belt and the crank shaft pulley. Been a couple of years since I have done a timing belt on one. BTW this is an interference engine, so if the belt breaks, there is a good chance of engine damage. Best to side with caution when dealing with an engine that is as expensive as this one. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:43:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did some Googling and found at least one thing saying that on the Toyota 4.7 the 0715 trouble code refers to the speed off of the primary pulley... which is exactly where the noise is from. I read that also, However I could not find a good location diagram for the sensor and I have never worked on a tundra 4.7. If in fact it is on the front primary pulley, make sure the connections are tight, clean and the wires are in tact. The only way I can justify the two problems in your post as being related would be "IF" the input sensor is giving a faulty reading causing a premature converter lockup stalling the engine, weather it is causing the motor to die or sputter causing the momentum of the accessories on the drive system to make the belt squeak. Does the truck stutter? Shift funny? shudder when in gear? act like there is a distinct neutral lag when accelerating? for example, Give it a little gas in drive, motor revs a little then it will shudder into gear and go. Have you checked the trans fluid? I am still leaning toward two separate problems. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:45:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some vehicles use the Crankshaft position sensor as the ISS, since the crankshaft rpm should be the input rpm through the torque converter. I would suggest not driving the vehicle, sounds like the possibility the timing belt may be coming apart and interrupted the crank shaft sensor signal. I am pretty sure the reluctor sandwiches in between the crank gear for the timing belt and the crank shaft pulley. Been a couple of years since I have done a timing belt on one. BTW this is an interference engine, so if the belt breaks, there is a good chance of engine damage. Best to side with caution when dealing with an engine that is as expensive as this one. Very solid advise. You do NOT want to break a timing belt..... |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 8:45:32 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It needs some Italian food.
Don't know but this is a btt. 
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:02:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Okay....
I pulled off the serpentine belt. Fired up the motor-- sounds perfect, no problems. I hope that lets the timing belt off the hook as a culprit. I turned everything by hand... the "main" pulley, where the fan attaches, has some slight wobble, and also some bearing noises when you spin it. So it is that pulley or something attached to it. Is this likely a bearing in the pulley issue? |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:03:38 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay.... I pulled off the serpentine belt. Fired up the motor-- sounds perfect, no problems. I hope that lets the timing belt off the hook as a culprit. I turned everything by hand... the "main" pulley, where the fan attaches, has some slight wobble, and also some bearing noises when you spin it. Is this likely a bearing in the pulley issue? That is one problem. It needs fixing. yes |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:03:51 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It needs some Italian food.
Don't know but this is a btt. Damnitt. Came to advise op to think about it over a big plate of fettucini alfredo.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:05:57 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay.... I pulled off the serpentine belt. Fired up the motor-- sounds perfect, no problems. I hope that lets the timing belt off the hook as a culprit. I turned everything by hand... the "main" pulley, where the fan attaches, has some slight wobble, and also some bearing noises when you spin it. So it is that pulley or something attached to it. Is this likely a bearing in the pulley issue? Yes. It may not be THE problem, but it is A problem. I had to change the pulley in front of my water pump, before it could kill the water pump. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:08:52 PM EDT
[#19]
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump.
This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:10:25 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay.... I pulled off the serpentine belt. Fired up the motor-- sounds perfect, no problems. I hope that lets the timing belt off the hook as a culprit. I turned everything by hand... the "main" pulley, where the fan attaches, has some slight wobble, and also some bearing noises when you spin it. So it is that pulley or something attached to it. Is this likely a bearing in the pulley issue? yes...when you spin it does it sound like it growls? |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:11:02 PM EDT
[#21]
battery going bad alternator pulling really hard to charge after start
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:11:55 PM EDT
[#22]
The pulley where the fan bolts to is not the main pulley. If it wobbles and makes noise this idler pulley needs to be replaced, and it is not cheap, so be prepared when you go to the dealer. The main pulley is the crankshaft pulley, it is the large pulley at the very bottom.
How many miles on the engine? Has the Timing belt ever been done? |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:13:15 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump. This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. This is incorrect! The fan bolts to a pulley that is part of an idler and bracket system on this truck. The water pump is under the timing cover, and is run by the timing belt. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:14:09 PM EDT
[#24]
It's your antifreeze pump
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:17:41 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is incorrect! The fan bolts to a pulley that is part of an idler and bracket system on this truck. The water pump is under the timing cover, and is run by the timing belt. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump. This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. This is incorrect! The fan bolts to a pulley that is part of an idler and bracket system on this truck. The water pump is under the timing cover, and is run by the timing belt. Thanks for the correction. As I have said I have no experience with this particular engine. I was going by a video on youtube showing a timing belt replacement on one.
Sorry OP I am trying to help on the fly with a combination of mechanical experience and some internet help. 
I wish I had access to Mitchell on Demand at home.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:21:23 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump. This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. I guessed the water pump was there, never done a Toyota though. This would jive with the sources on the net that say the Toyota 4.7 0715 error code originates on the primary pulley. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:23:35 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guessed the water pump was there, never done a Toyota though. This would jive with the sources on the net that say the Toyota 4.7 0715 error code originates on the primary pulley. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump. This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. I guessed the water pump was there, never done a Toyota though. This would jive with the sources on the net that say the Toyota 4.7 0715 error code originates on the primary pulley. My post is wrong! 
The fan is in fact on it's own pulley separate from the water pump. However if that is wobbling and grinding, It must be replaced. Check everything. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:28:01 PM EDT
[#28]
just curious do you do a lot of offroading? my pulleys went cause they are not sealed......little bit of mud and water makes them go eventually.........changed them all with sealed pullies from napa in my drive way took less than an hour, never an issue after that
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:29:00 PM EDT
[#29]
What year is your truck?
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:34:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the correction. As I have said I have no experience with this particular engine. I was going by a video on youtube showing a timing belt replacement on one.
Sorry OP I am trying to help on the fly with a combination of mechanical experience and some internet help.
I wish I had access to Mitchell on Demand at home. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The fan pulley is bolted to the water pump, if the fan and fan pulley is wobbling and the bolts are all tight you need a new water pump. This still leaves you with the input sensor fault. This is incorrect! The fan bolts to a pulley that is part of an idler and bracket system on this truck. The water pump is under the timing cover, and is run by the timing belt. Thanks for the correction. As I have said I have no experience with this particular engine. I was going by a video on youtube showing a timing belt replacement on one.
Sorry OP I am trying to help on the fly with a combination of mechanical experience and some internet help.
I wish I had access to Mitchell on Demand at home. Im a lucky to be able to access it at home, I also have all the Ford Data known to man that I can go through from the house also. I try to stay off it when im not working
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:35:12 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What year is your truck? 2002 |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:39:23 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2002 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What year is your truck? 2002 Yep. fan is on a pulley separate from the water pump pulley. The cooling fan bracket saddles the water pump. They are somewhat spendy. I am seeing them from 120 to 190 dollars. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:40:47 PM EDT
[#33]
Yup, i would guess water pump shaft bearing is done. Don't drive it if you can help it, if that bearing falls apart it will smoke the belt off in two seconds flat and you'll be stuck.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:41:52 PM EDT
[#34]
squirt some gun oil in the idlers.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:43:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Here is what needs to be replaced if the fan is wobbling and making a racket.
Not bad prices either. However I have no experience with these particular parts. I have had good luck with rock auto, but sometimes cheap is for a reason.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1389001,parttype,11548,a,www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B2002%2BTOYOTA%2BTUNDRA%2B4.7L%2BV8 |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:44:36 PM EDT
[#36]
buddy was having pretty much the same issue, but with a 5.4L f150. fan clutch was the problem.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 9:52:21 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
buddy was having pretty much the same issue, but with a 5.4L f150. fan clutch was the problem. 
Damn trucks. I have nightmares about changing spark plugs in those. 
Buddy was working on one last night. 7 of eight plugs broke and required an extractor. I replaced a water pump and clutch fan on one and the damn new fan was crap. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:24:03 PM EDT
[#38]
Thanks for all the help guys.
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:33:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Damn trucks. I have nightmares about changing spark plugs in those.
Buddy was working on one last night. 7 of eight plugs broke and required an extractor. I replaced a water pump and clutch fan on one and the damn new fan was crap. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
buddy was having pretty much the same issue, but with a 5.4L f150. fan clutch was the problem.
Damn trucks. I have nightmares about changing spark plugs in those.
Buddy was working on one last night. 7 of eight plugs broke and required an extractor. I replaced a water pump and clutch fan on one and the damn new fan was crap. Antiseize is your friend with the new fords........and spark plugs.... |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:38:14 PM EDT
[#40]
Harmonic balancer separating, walking forward or or backwards?
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:46:05 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for all the help guys. Hope it helped. |
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:56:52 PM EDT
[#42]
How many miles on it?
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Posted: 1/17/2015 10:58:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How many miles on it? 150,000 |
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Posted: 1/18/2015 2:12:25 AM EDT
[#44]
I would also guess bearing going bad. Look at the face of the alternator and see if it has metallic powder residue dusted on it. My Dads shit chrysler did the same thing. Alt bearing was shitting the bed and squeeking intermediately.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 1/18/2015 11:56:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Any updates?
Found anything more? |
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