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Posted: 4/27/2014 6:02:55 PM EDT
The pump pressure switch keep cutting off and on. When it cuts off, the pressure slowly drops to about 15psi, then the pump kicks on again.
There is some pressure, and we get some water out of the faucets. Bad switch? Bad pressure tank? Bad check valve on the well pump? Broken main pipe between the pump and the house? Video |
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Sounds like your pressure tank may be waterlogged. That's how mine acts when that happens. Bleed the tank, doesn't cost anything and may solve your problem. If you have a bladder tank, the bladder may be bad.
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If you are dropping pressure, you have a leak. The pressure tanks, even when bad, shouldn't drop that much pressure. If it is a bladder, open the tank's valve when it is pressurized. If you have water, that is bad.
Do you have a check valve post or pre-pump? These do go bad. Also, your pump could allow the pressure to bypass. OK... here are some more thoughts after watching your video--- The pressure gauge should not jump like that. You are also short cycling and you are never building pressure. You should have an external switch to override the pressure switch. I would start by holding it down and seeing how long it runs. I believe you have a bad pressure switch and a bad pressure gauge. You need to fix both. You may also have clogged ports, which are generating the funky pressure jumps. Either way, you can pull it apart and check the port and the contacts for the pressure switch. |
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Quoted: If you are dropping pressure, you have a leak. The pressure tanks, even when bad, shouldn't drop that much pressure. If it is a bladder, open the tank's valve when it is pressurized. If you have water, that is bad. Do you have a check valve post or pre-pump? These do go bad. Also, your pump could allow the pressure to bypass. OK... here are some more thoughts after watching your video--- The pressure gauge should not jump like that. You are also short cycling and you are never building pressure. You should have an external switch to override the pressure switch. I would start by holding it down and seeing how long it runs. I believe you have a bad pressure switch and a bad pressure gauge. You need to fix both. You may also have clogged ports, which are generating the funky pressure jumps. Either way, you can pull it apart and check the port and the contacts for the pressure switch. View Quote |
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Check the 1/4" nipple between the pressure switch and pressure line, it plugs up.
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The gage appears to be misleading because there is no way a pump be it jet or submersible can react that fast. I don't think its your bladder/water tank because you'd still have sufficient pressure but the pump would be cycling on every water demand. If in fact you have a jet pump you could have a bad check/foot valve in the well. If its a submersible or jet for that matter look for a wet spot along your water line to house. However, with that being said try a new pressure switch before if you can't find any wet spots in your yard, this is where my moneys at. Incidentally, I heard something hissing in the video? Pressure switches don't do that. If so the diaphragm in the switch is bad.
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off.
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Ok, a lot responses so let me try to keep up.
It's an old system so I don't think there is a bladder and the pressure tank. The only way to drain the pressure tank is by a valve in between the pressure switch and the tank I did that and it seems to improved somewhat it's still kicking on once in a while but it's holding pressure at about 35 psi. I looked around the house to see if there was a toilet running or if it was a hole somewhere and I didn't find any but I'll keep looking. tonight though I need to go to sleep because I have to get up early so thanks for all your comments and I'll check again in the morning. |
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Check soon. That short cycling is not good and consumes the most power.
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. View Quote That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? |
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That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Yes, is it a galvanized tank? However, even a bladder tank has a air valve. Difference is, a bladder tank should NEVER have water on the air valve side, if it does, it's toast. A non bladder style will occasionally need a recharge of air simply due to it being absorbed by the water. |
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The gage appears to be misleading because there is no way a pump be it jet or submersible can react that fast. I don't think its your bladder/water tank because you'd still have sufficient pressure but the pump would be cycling on every water demand. If in fact you have a jet pump you could have a bad check/foot valve in the well. If its a submersible or jet for that matter look for a wet spot along your water line to house. However, with that being said try a new pressure switch before if you can't find any wet spots in your yard, this is where my moneys at. Incidentally, I heard something hissing in the video? Pressure switches don't do that. If so the diaphragm in the switch is bad. View Quote Yes, I heard something kissing too but I don't know where it's coming from. |
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That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Inside of that tank is a bladder. |
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Yes, is it a galvanized tank? The tank is painted blue but it's old it's very tall it's probably about four feet tall. |
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The tank is painted blue but it's old it's very tall it's probably about four feet tall. That is a bladder tank. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Yes, is it a galvanized tank? The tank is painted blue but it's old it's very tall it's probably about four feet tall. That is a bladder tank. |
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Turn on several faucets, if the pump kicks on and stays on, the tank bladder is likely broken and waterlogged. Can't pressurize liquid so it maxes right out and kicks off. That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Yes, is it a galvanized tank? The tank is painted blue but it's old it's very tall it's probably about four feet tall. That is a bladder tank. Think tank is bad? |
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If you have a submersible pump then it could be the standing valve.
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That makes sense. I don't think it is a platter type tank there's a small air valve like a tire valve on the top of the tank do I need to put air in that? Yes, is it a galvanized tank? The tank is painted blue but it's old it's very tall it's probably about four feet tall. That is a bladder tank. Think tank is bad? Push down on the air valve, if water comes out, it is bad and needs to be replaced. |
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If you are dropping pressure, you have a leak. The pressure tanks, even when bad, shouldn't drop that much pressure. If it is a bladder, open the tank's valve when it is pressurized. If you have water, that is bad. Do you have a check valve post or pre-pump? These do go bad. Also, your pump could allow the pressure to bypass. OK... here are some more thoughts after watching your video--- The pressure gauge should not jump like that. You are also short cycling and you are never building pressure. You should have an external switch to override the pressure switch. I would start by holding it down and seeing how long it runs. I believe you have a bad pressure switch and a bad pressure gauge. You need to fix both. You may also have clogged ports, which are generating the funky pressure jumps. Either way, you can pull it apart and check the port and the contacts for the pressure switch. View Quote Sigh, Sounds like I should replace the switch and the pressure tank . |
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Check the 1/4" nipple between the pressure switch and pressure line, it plugs up. View Quote This is your answer most likely. Shut everything down, and take a paper clip to that nipple, mineral deposits will clog it over time, re attach the lines, and you will probably be ok for a while until mineral buildup does the same thing (maybe years, maybe less). |
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Keep your system turned off via circuit breaker and turn on the water thus draining system. Check the air pressure at your bladder tank or galvanized tank at the valve on the tank itself. This pressure should read approx 38 psi regardless of your particular pressure switch. If not, add air until this is met. A busted bladder will NOT cause pressures to fall this fast as the video he provided would indicate.
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This is your answer most likely. Shut everything down, and take a paper clip to that nipple, mineral deposits will clog it over time, re attach the lines, and you will probably be ok for a while until mineral buildup does the same thing (maybe years, maybe less). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Check the 1/4" nipple between the pressure switch and pressure line, it plugs up. This is your answer most likely. Shut everything down, and take a paper clip to that nipple, mineral deposits will clog it over time, re attach the lines, and you will probably be ok for a while until mineral buildup does the same thing (maybe years, maybe less). What is this nipple? Where do I find it? Does it look like the tire valve on top of the pressure tank? Do i have to take the presseue switch off of the pipe it sits on to find it? |
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What is this nipple? Where do I find it? Does it look like the tire valve on top of the pressure tank? Do i have to take the presseue switch off of the pipe it sits on to find it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Check the 1/4" nipple between the pressure switch and pressure line, it plugs up. This is your answer most likely. Shut everything down, and take a paper clip to that nipple, mineral deposits will clog it over time, re attach the lines, and you will probably be ok for a while until mineral buildup does the same thing (maybe years, maybe less). What is this nipple? Where do I find it? Does it look like the tire valve on top of the pressure tank? Do i have to take the presseue switch off of the pipe it sits on to find it? The nipple is the metal piping that goes into the pressure gauge and to the pressure switch. Yours look separate. |
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What is this nipple? Where do I find it? Does it look like the tire valve on top of the pressure tank? Do i have to take the presseue switch off of the pipe it sits on to find it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Check the 1/4" nipple between the pressure switch and pressure line, it plugs up. This is your answer most likely. Shut everything down, and take a paper clip to that nipple, mineral deposits will clog it over time, re attach the lines, and you will probably be ok for a while until mineral buildup does the same thing (maybe years, maybe less). What is this nipple? Where do I find it? Does it look like the tire valve on top of the pressure tank? Do i have to take the presseue switch off of the pipe it sits on to find it? It's not on the tank, on my system it's on the pump head and runs to the switch. It might be anywhere between the tank and the pump and run to the nipple on the switch. Look for a small 1/4" line. Mine is a plastic line, just like you would find on the air pump of a fish aquarium. Pull the line off of both nipples (shut down the system, so there is no pressure, or you'll have water squirting out of it), and ream out the nipples with a paper clip. |
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I just had this same problem 2 weeks ago. My problem was a bad check valve in the pump. I pulled the pump and added a check valve directly on
the top. Been working great ever since. This well is only 70 ft. deep & I could see the water level with the well cap off. I could hear when the pump started, & when it stopped. As soon as it would stop,I could see the water level rise as the water drained back. Then I could see it fall a bit when the pump started again. This continuous action really stirred up silt & crud in the well, it took a few days to clear up.To save your pump, kill the breaker until you get it fixed. |
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Thank you all.
I needed water ASAP and could not take off work so I found a handyman and he replaced everything. Tank was 3/4 filled with water. Everything was old and copper pipe (which had sprung a leak Saturday that I fixed) so he replaced the tank, switch, and pipe up to hot water heater and feed lines with CPVC. All working good now and I have a large blue water filled target .... What caliber for large water pressure tanks? .... Seriously though.... this thing safe to shoot? |
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Waterlogged. Open up the faucet and drain it some. If that doesn't work you may need a new pressure switch.
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Tagging as relevant to my potential needs. I have a well and this thread is enlightening.
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Waterlogged. Open up the faucet and drain it some. If that doesn't work you may need a new pressure switch. View Quote It's all fix'ed and stuff. I did drain it last night -as much as would come out. Replaced it and the switch today. Probably could have done it myself, but if felt the need to support my local handyman/plumber. |
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