Getting the wheel off shouldn't be too hard. Leverage won't do it, what you need is vibration, and a real penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is good, I hear Kroil is ok too. WD-40 sucks for this application. Get behind that wheel and soak down the area where the wheel meets the hub. Use your 2X4 or a good heavy plastic or rubber mallet and pound on that wheel gently (not near the rim!) and the vibration will greatly help the penetrating oil seep into the frozen area. Come back in an hour or two and repeat, it should pop right off.
Same thing with the frozen exhaust manifold bolt. Soak them good when it is still warm (NOT hot....do not cause a fire! WARM NOT HOT!), tap with rubber or plastic mallet. When it cools, soak and tap again. Patience is key. Let sit for awhile then carefully try and remove the bolts.
The good news is, if you snap the bolts off, you can then remove the manifold and the remains of the bolts should be much easier to remove, as they are likely frozen to the manifold rather than to the head casting.
It is a pain in the rear though. As far as cost, you won't be able to pin it down. Figuring $60/hour labor, they might get the bolts right out, cost would be reasonable. Then again, they might snap every one of them off at the manifold and then snap them off again at the head casting, then have to pull the head and drill out the studs to replace them! It is impossible to predict, but now you are looking at serious money.
If you choose to DIY, pulling a head is not very hard. I did one side on an 70's Mustang in about 2 hours, had the valves done, then reassambled in about 3 hours.
Hope this helps!