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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:03:55 AM EDT
[#1]
Silent type eh?
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:04:02 AM EDT
[#2]
I owned one. Worst decision of my life.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:06:32 AM EDT
[#3]
Wait it was your mechanic who told you the good things right?
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:08:56 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I owned one. Worst decision of my life. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Will you explain this please? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:09:27 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wait it was your mechanic who told you the good things right? Nope just what I have read on forums, which is always true. lol |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:11:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Had to change the head bolts on mine to ARP after I Banks kitted the thing and blew a head gasket. Still need to do the EGR delete but I haven't had any issues with mine other than that.
It's an 04 with only 52k miles on it though. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:12:13 AM EDT
[#7]
From what I have heard and read, once you do the EGR delete, upgrade the oil cooler and do head studs the 6.0 becomes a very reliable engine.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:17:48 AM EDT
[#8]
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:22:09 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. What? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:22:10 AM EDT
[#10]
Cost a few extra thousand to make them a good motor. No resale value... Also hard to find one that hasn't been ragged with a chip.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:23:32 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:25:28 AM EDT
[#12]
Never had a problem with my manual 6 speed in my F-550 4x4 but I also have one of these installed;
http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html Haters are going to hate. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:30:13 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. What?  |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:30:52 AM EDT
[#14]
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:31:54 AM EDT
[#15]
I bought an 03 f350 with 6.0 back in 2005. Had 51k on it when I bought it. I did the EGR delete, upgraded the oil cooler and replaced the ICP sensor at around 80k miles. Put a superchip tune on it and ran it on the medium setting most of the time. It has 143k on it now. I never got around to the head studs but I never had any issues with it.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:32:02 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:34:24 AM EDT
[#17]
'07's are the best.
'06's are decent. '05's are okay '04's still have some issues. '03's suck. To make all of them run awesome: EGR delete Oil cooler upgrade Head studs Good tuner Exhaust. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:34:31 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable. If you have a separate DD and are not using it commercially, it really doesn't matter. I'd love to have a V10 F250 once my current beater truck dies. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:37:06 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable. I'm sure they do. I bought the Chevrolet 2500 HD with the 6.0L and added a cold air intake and cat back which slightly improved the mileage. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:38:32 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
'07's are the best. '06's are decent. '05's are okay '04's still have some issues. '03's suck. To make all of them run awesome: EGR delete Oil cooler upgrade Head studs Good tuner Exhaust. What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:39:39 AM EDT
[#21]
Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks.
If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:41:19 AM EDT
[#22]
They are good as long as you keep them maintained. Go to powerstroke.org They have some great info on them.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:43:33 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise! How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:43:43 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
'07's are the best. '06's are decent. '05's are okay '04's still have some issues. '03's suck. To make all of them run awesome: EGR delete Oil cooler upgrade Head studs Good tuner Exhaust. What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves? Under 5k depending on your choice of parts. As previously stated, headstuds are only needed if you plan on running it at high horse power. That shaves off probably 2k of the costs. The oil cooler update is about $900+ install. Tuner & EGR delete is about $700 + install. Exhaust can be as little as $400 for turbo back, or $3k if you want a jet black, chromed one. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:44:56 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
So I am looking at upgrading to a larger pickup and the F250-350 in my price range all have the 6.0L diesel. I have heard a lot, good and bad, about these engines and was told as long as they have the head studs and gasket replaced along with the EGR delete, they are great motors. Anyone that owns one or that has been around one, please give me your input on your experience with them. Thanks for any input. Think about that for a sec... Does it sound confidence inspiring ? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:45:43 AM EDT
[#26]
Ok as someone who works on them all the time they are good engines but go to bulletproofdiesel.com and look. The egr delete is a joke it just hides the problem. For about 5k and some basic skills you can do it. I have installed several of them on customers vehicles. And for what it's worth I have never seen or needed to stud one never seen one blow head gaskets due to over boosting. JMO
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:50:57 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line... Why do you need to shorten the drive line? |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:51:36 AM EDT
[#28]
I have a 03 6.0 with 210,000 miles, heres a quick summary:
Oil change every 5000 miles with mobil 1 synthetic and Ford filter. RevX helps a lot if you have bad injectors. Fuel filter every 10000 miles with Ford filter. Do not use aftermarket filters, Ford has a patent on the design Add a coolant filter and switch to Cat ELC coolant. Most 6.0 problems can trace a root cause back to coolant issues. Only after the coolant system is taken care of, replace the oil cooler and delete the EGR. Head studs only if you need them, plenty of stock trucks are still out there on the factory bolts. Upgrade the fuel pressure regulator to the blue spring, Ford has a kit for this. Overall mine has been great, but you can not let the maintenance go like a gas engine. Skipped oil and fuel filter changes will cost you thousands in replacement injectors. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:54:00 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems. Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG. I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:55:11 AM EDT
[#30]
Thanks for the comments so far, I will check out those other forums. I understand my comment of "making them reliable after doing work on them" is kinda dumb, but I like the looks of the truck and will not go gas as this is my DD. I already get 13 mpg on my f-150 with the 5.4 so I am guessing I can't do much worse than that unless it's the V-10.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:58:46 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG. I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems. Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG. I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV That right there is where I am going with this. If it is, or was, properly maintained and not had a bunch of b/s aftermarket stuff on it, would it be a good motor. I wouldn't do anything other than exhaust, intake, and maybe a water separator for the fuel. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:59:03 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks. If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:59:16 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise! How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise! How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins? It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser, but if you're spending $2k a year on engine maintenance, you're driving 100k a year or the shop is fucking the hell out of you. Diesel owner since 1995 average 20k miles a year, on Chevy 6.5s, a Cummins, a power stroke, and 2 duramax. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:05:54 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why do you need to shorten the drive line? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line... Why do you need to shorten the drive line? Because he doesnt know what he is talking about.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:08:06 AM EDT
[#35]
Save a couple thousand on initial price, pay a couple thousand later fixing it.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:11:26 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made. ^LOL WOW. This guy knows whats up. 
I've got 140k miles on my 6.0. Love the truck. Find one that's been well taken care of with documented maintenance. An OASIS report can show you what kind of issues it had under warranty and more times than not, dictate which ones are more of a Lemon. Maintenance is VERY important on the 6.0s, Like others have stated, once the common issues are taken care of, they are great engines. Also, $2-4000 per year on maintenance is a bit out there. Oil change every 5k miles, fuel filters every 10k and your good to go. If you buy one, be sure to buy a monitor and/or gauges to keep an eye on all the engine vitals. Oil temp, Coolant temp, and EGT at minimum. FICM voltage is also important to keep an eye on. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:15:33 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because he doesnt know what he is talking about. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line... Why do you need to shorten the drive line? Because he doesnt know what he is talking about. Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:16:05 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Really? My last diesel I changed the oil air filter and fuel filter 3 times a year my self and barely broke 150.00 each time I serviced it. Brakes if needed are only roughly 45.00 if you do it yourself. Just trying to figure out "maintenance" that would cost 2-4grand. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks. If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame. I agree. I've got a '05 F250 6.0 powerstroke diesel 4 x 4, everything still stock, and I do most of the routine maintenance and it only costs me a few hundred per year. Oil/filter change every 5,000 miles, new fuel filters every 15,000 miles, air filter every ~80k miles. I didn't do the EGR delete, but back when I first bought the truck (new) I did have some EGR & cooler related problems that had it dead on the side of the road a few times. Now I pull the EGR every 5,000 miles when I change my oil, clean it, and pop it back in. Never had an issue since I started doing that. Anyway, my luck with my truck could be the low mileage I put on it since I work from home. It's going on on 8 years now and only has 110k miles. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:18:47 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser, Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise! How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins? It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser, I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost). |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:21:31 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line... Why do you need to shorten the drive line? Because he doesnt know what he is talking about. Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that. 
He wasnt. 
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:24:59 AM EDT
[#41]
Had two at work.
04 f250- put 300,000 on it before we traded it in, minimal maintinece, all oil changes were done at or beyond 10k miles. 06 f250- currently at 230,000. Still in service, I have a hand thick file folder of the work done to it. We replaced the injectors like 3 times, we had water coming out of the exhaust pipe. We paid like 10k last service to get it up to par at 200k miles and a week later the check engine light came on. Took it in again, week later the check engine like is still on. 03 chevy- currently at 320,000 and still in service. replaced the injectors once(stock LB7 injectors sucked), water pump once. 06 chevy- currently at 290,000 and still in service. Replaced the water pump once, I replaced the stock rotors today. I will say that I HATE changing the f250's fuel filters. Always always always makes a mess. FYI one of the two fuel filters is under the truck mounted horizontally along the frame. The other is ON top of the engine. Just two comparable brands on comparable years. These trucks tow over 10k regularly, and run nearly everyday of the year. +120 degree Las Vegas weather. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:25:38 AM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:32:54 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise! How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins? It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser, I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost). 10 on a Duramax, 12 on a Cummins, I thought the last Ford I had held 12 quarts also, but I could have foggy memory that was 15+ years ago.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:33:59 AM EDT
[#44]
Right before you do the oil cooler and egr, do a coolant flush. The problems with the 6.0 is there is casting sand left in the block and it blocks the coolant going into the oil cooler, which restricts the egr, which leads to the heads not getting any coolant and stretching the bolt and popping the head gasket. There are write-ups all over the ford diesel forums on how to do it, and once you're done, you'll have a super reliable truck.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 10:47:22 AM EDT
[#45]
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it.
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Posted: 12/13/2013 11:04:48 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it. You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere. I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 8:47:56 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere. I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it. You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere. I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job. Thanks for the heads up! Will start researching how to get the valve off! |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 8:53:30 PM EDT
[#48]
We had one, never towed any weight. Got rid of it at 75k on the 4th motor. Had wet dreams every night. Sometimes oil, sometimes antifreeze.
Edit to add: we had a 7.3 before it and still do. 300k and still going strong. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 8:58:42 PM EDT
[#49]
I have owned everything from a 7.3, through the 6.0, to the 6.4. Ford lost it's way when it went from the 7.3. I know the gov't made it happen, but they have sucked ever since 7.3.
The humpers will defend the junk, but I can't. I still have an 08 with a 6.4 in it, my deuce with a Cat 3116 gets better mileage. And that's no bullshit. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 9:00:25 PM EDT
[#50]
Have an '05 with zero problems since brand new. Best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none.
IMHO the 6.0 is GTG - except for when modified. I would never 'chip' one, nor own one that had ever been chipped. It is a shitty motor for hot-rodding, that's where the stretched studs come into play a lot. My rig spends the majority of its life pulling a 5ver up & down Western U.S. roads/highways. Prior to the 5'ver it pulled a 11-12k toy box all over the Western U.S. I run fuel treatment in every tank & I never let Ford 'flash' it... that fucked up a ton of otherwise good trucks. I get the same power & MPG I've got since the beginning. |
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