Snow Blower submerged during Sandy... need advice!

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Snow Blower submerged during Sandy... need advice!

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:25:48 AM EDT

I have a brand new 2 stage cub cadet snow blower that I bought at the end of last season and never used. It was completely submerged with salt water during Sandy (along with most of the bottom of my house, but that's another thread).

I imagine I will have to drain the oil and fuel and then try to slowly turn it over. Maybe place a drop or 2 of oil in the spark plug hole?
Since I lost the documentation, what type of oil do these things use?
What else should I do?

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:34:33 AM EDT

[#1]

Definitely R&R the oil and fuel. Good idea to pull the plug and hose the cylinder(s) with WD-40 and rotate. I'd be worried about corrosion on an electrical connections (like run/stop switch) so check that and oil with WD. If it's got a paper air filter, it's a sponge. Pull it. Other than that, I'd like it run for a good 20 min to bake out any remaining moisture in the crank case.

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:40:05 AM EDT

[#2]

More than likely, you're going to be hosed. If it dried out, I'm sure the cylinder walls and electronics are rusted. You can try to drain it, refill it, pull the spark plug, dump in a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder, and turn it over slowly a few times with the plug still out. Don't forget to drain the carburetor. More than likely, SAE 30 oil is what you need to refill the crankcase.

You don't have anything to lose by trying the above. Good luck.

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:40:09 AM EDT

[#3]

Is it 2 stroke?

Oil type can be found online I'm sure.

as for treating it, completely drain all fluids and pull the plug. pull air cleaner also. New air cleaner, new plug. fill the oil only, no plug or fuel yet. put a bit of oil, a few ounces in the cylinder. cycle the engine to move oil around. you did put a rag over the plug hole, right?

once it stops blowing, put good fuel in, try to start, cleaning out the fuel system. then install the plug. should be good. worked for my mower and chain saw.

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:43:20 AM EDT

[#4]

If it has grease fittings lube them all also wash it with fresh water. The inside of every tube and cable will corrode from salt water. See if you can find a product called Boesheild T-9 is is a spray lube with great anti corrosion properties.

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Posted: 11/16/2012 6:53:05 AM EDT

[#5]

Insurance won't cover it with what ever other stuff got flooded?

Posted: 11/16/2012 6:57:00 AM EDT

[#6]

Snow blower vs. boat, what's the difference. An engine submerged in salt water, is an engine submerged in salt water.

http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/pickle.asp

Posted: 11/16/2012 7:10:53 AM EDT

[#7]

It's done. Sorry.

Posted: 11/16/2012 7:13:04 AM EDT

[#8]

Clean and lube everything.. those engines are VERY tough and hard to kill.

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:08:38 AM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:
It's done. Sorry.

pretty much this... 50-50% chance its toast if it has water in the block
100% chance if it runs and the oil is milky

long term reliability? gets kinda murky... everything from corrosion in the electrical
to even "sealed" bearings arent water proof

is it worth trying? absolutely

considering a snow blowers use I would expect the electrical on them to be weather resistant already

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:18:36 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
Clean and lube everything.. those engines are VERY tough and hard to kill.

This.

Longevity wise, It is probably fooked. But a Good thorough cleaning and oiling may keep it running for a while.

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:20:04 AM EDT

[#11]

Run some Sea Foam through it when you start it.

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:22:51 AM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
Run some Sea Foam through it when you start it.

That was already done, remember?

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:29:19 AM EDT

[#13]

It's been sitting out of water for how long after being fully flooded in salt water? Most likely it's fucked.

Does it still turn over?

As far as your question, 5w-30 or there abouts should be fine. I'm pretty handy with engines and if it didn't work with simple stuff, I wouldn't mess with it.

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:33:25 AM EDT

[#14]

Ya can't say "Fuck it" and do a complete tear down and rebuild?

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:42:59 AM EDT

[#15]

do this

pop out the spark plug
drain the block of all fluids
drain all lines flush with cleaner
replace with new fluids
clean out carburetor with carb cleaner
clean out the gas tank with a cleaner
replace spark plug with new one

then turn over the engine a couple of times to lube it back up, but not starting it yet

then fire it up and run a tank thorough it

Posted: 11/16/2012 8:46:58 AM EDT

[#16]

Rescue is worth giving it a shot. But, if you have let it set too long waterlogged with salt water, its toast.

Posted: 11/16/2012 9:19:58 AM EDT

[#17]

Move south?

Posted: 11/16/2012 9:21:19 AM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:
Move south?

Good idea....they don't have many hurricanes south of NY

Posted: 11/16/2012 9:23:22 AM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Move south?

Good idea....they don't have many hurricanes south of NY

But at least he won't need the snowblower.

Posted: 11/16/2012 9:24:42 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Move south?

Good idea....they don't have many hurricanes south of NY

But at least he won't need the snowblower.

Posted: 11/16/2012 9:25:14 AM EDT

[#21]

Drain the fluids, flush with distilled water inside and out, dry under forced heat with the plugs removed (oil fill and drain, spark and fuel) and then refill the oil and gas. Run it for an entire tank and it should be good.

The electronics are potted.

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:06:36 PM EDT

[#22]

Drained oil and fuel and replaced. I removed the spark plug and cranked till water stopped coming out the exhaust. Replaced the spark plug but still couldnt get it tostart.

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:11:38 PM EDT

[#23]

"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:38:41 PM EDT

[#24]

water or mist? coming out of the spark plug hole?

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:39:57 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
water or mist? coming out of the spark plug hole?

sludge actually

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:46:54 PM EDT

[#26]

If it has been outside this whole time, it may not be that messed up if it has been frozen or close to it. Stuff rusts slowly in the cold compared to the hot weather.

Spray it down with hot fresh water, using a lot more than you expect. Drain the oil, drain the fuel, throw both away (I am assuming that it's 4 stroke). Pull the spark plug. This is a good time to check the gap. Pump fresh grease into all of the fittings. If it has a gearbox, change that out as well (I like better gear oils, and I like synthetics). Turn the engine over a few times after refilling with a 10W-30 oil, any will work for now, and do so with no fuel and the plug out. Put the plug back in, fill with fresh fuel, prime, and start it up. Run it for about 30 minutes, and run it at every speed, in reverse if it has that, and so on.

If you do not normally lube the control cables, you will have serious issues, so put new cables on order. I would suggest that you change the oil after about 10 hours.

If you can, try to use a motorcycle oil or diesel oil in the engine to let the better detergency clean it out a little.

It will either be OK or it won't. You won't be out more than a few dollars for fuel, $6 for oil, and so on if you are wrong.

After you use it for a few months and things return to normal, take it into the shop to get it checked out.

Posted: 11/16/2012 1:47:45 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
water or mist? coming out of the spark plug hole?

sludge actually

Interesting. So you have a spark? And you can smell fuel?

ETA:

Was the unit upside down? You may just have a heck of a lot of oil in the cylinder.

Posted: 11/17/2012 1:53:11 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

Quoted:
water or mist? coming out of the spark plug hole?

sludge actually

Interesting. So you have a spark? And you can smell fuel?

ETA:

Was the unit upside down? You may just have a heck of a lot of oil in the cylinder.

not sure if i have spark. don't smell fuel.
dont think it was upside down.

Posted: 11/17/2012 2:08:48 PM EDT

[#29]

Quoted:
"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Not if the OP doesn't have flood insurance...

Posted: 11/17/2012 2:14:30 PM EDT

[#30]

Quoted:

Quoted:
"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Not if the OP doesn't have flood insurance...

Insurance wrote it off as a total loss already. It was a brand new snow blower that was never used that got completely submerged under 4 feet of saltwater. So far it looks like its toast.

Posted: 11/17/2012 3:06:15 PM EDT

[#31]

Quoted:

Quoted:
"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Not if the OP doesn't have flood insurance...

Insurance wrote it off as a total loss already. It was a brand new snow blower that was never used that got completely submerged under 4 feet of saltwater. So far it looks like its toast.

I'm hoping it is covered as salt water and aluminum engines mix about as well as bleach and ammonia. Add in steel rings and the crank and it's ruined.

Posted: 11/18/2012 2:00:43 AM EDT

[#32]

Quoted:

Quoted:
"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Not if the OP doesn't have flood insurance...

Insurance wrote it off as a total loss already. It was a brand new snow blower that was never used that got completely submerged under 4 feet of saltwater. So far it looks like its toast.

I'm hoping it is covered as salt water and aluminum engines mix about as well as bleach and ammonia. Add in steel rings and the crank and it's ruined.

The engine still spins smoothly, though, when I pull the starter rope. The oil may have protected those parts. There's gotta be be a way to get this thing going!

Posted: 11/18/2012 2:22:09 AM EDT

[#33]

I used to work on jet skis this was common. Pull plug and air filter dump oil 2 stroke down carb and spark hole clear it out by turning over. Nasty milk shake will shoot out put a rag over spark hole. It helps if you can tip it over to drain. Once you start do not stop otherwise you risk worse damage then done. Once its clear put plug back in and dump premix down carb, try to start. You will need to check plug for fouling almost after almost every attempt. Once you get it running let it run for a hour or so with extra premix. Also I'd its a 4 stroke change oil till it looks clear. Once you ran fog engibes with fogging oil. Goodluck and hope you have electic start.

Posted: 11/18/2012 2:24:34 AM EDT

[#34]

Also make sure you drain fuel and lines to carb.

Posted: 11/18/2012 11:29:51 AM EDT

[#35]

Finally! It starts!

I tore up the whole plastic control panel trying to gain access to the fuel line to thoroughly drain the tank and also to check the intake for any dirt/blockages. These things are definitely not made to come apart!

Ran it till the fuel ran out and drained the oil again. Looked like chocolate milk! I'll by some more oil tomorrow and rerun it some more. I also hosed off all the crap while it was hot and ran the auger put it in gear for a bit.

The way it is now, the choke and throttle controls are all out of whack and I had to rip off a plastic panel because a small screw rusted tight.
I'm surprised these things are not more user friendly to service.

Posted: 11/19/2012 5:06:42 AM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:
"Hello, insurance adjuster guy?"................." easy fix.

Exactly what I would do.

Posted: 11/19/2012 5:53:49 AM EDT

[#37]

I would change the oil twice. And save your receipts, your insurance company might reimburse you for SAVING them a little money.

Posted: 11/23/2012 8:36:11 PM EDT

[#38]

How is it running now?

Any further issues?

Posted: 11/23/2012 8:50:34 PM EDT

[#39]

Are there grease fittings on the auger? I've got one in the knuckle and one on each side on the blades on my old Snapper. I'd want to hit them with love too.

What model Cub Cadet is this thing?

ETA- go down the store and get a can of PBlaster, hit every screw you turn on it with that stuff and let it sit a minute at least.

What's up with the control cables? rusted into their channeling?

Posted: 11/23/2012 8:54:35 PM EDT

[#40]

Quoted:
Finally! It starts!

I tore up the whole plastic control panel trying to gain access to the fuel line to thoroughly drain the tank and also to check the intake for any dirt/blockages. These things are definitely not made to come apart!

Ran it till the fuel ran out and drained the oil again. Looked like chocolate milk! I'll by some more oil tomorrow and rerun it some more. I also hosed off all the crap while it was hot and ran the auger put it in gear for a bit.

The way it is now, the choke and throttle controls are all out of whack and I had to rip off a plastic panel because a small screw rusted tight.
I'm surprised these things are not more user friendly to service.

PB blaster or Spray Kroil..hose every screw and nut with that stuff before you try taking anything apart.

Posted: 11/23/2012 8:55:06 PM EDT

[#41]

Pull plugs and drain oil and fuel system. remove the carb and then remove the carb bowl. flush the heck out of it with carb cleaner. Lube cylinders through plug holes throughly with light oil. gently turn the engine over ( with plugs out) drain all that crap and add proper motor oil, new spark plugs and fuel.

Run it and get it warmed up

drain oil again

new oil

done

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Snow Blower submerged during Sandy... need advice!

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