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Posted: 8/7/2002 9:50:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Hard starting could be a lot of things, but the first thing I would check is the ignition timing. Also, check for a poorly functioning choke. Could also just not be getting enough fuel. What year, make and model is the truck?
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Posted: 8/7/2002 9:53:02 PM EDT
[#2]
9 year old battery? I surprised it would turn on the dome light. Replacing that would be a good place to start.
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Posted: 8/7/2002 9:58:13 PM EDT
[#3]
It is a 1994 ranger.
When I took it in the first time to get the AC motor replaced they said it wouldn't start and told me they had to replace 3 relays. |
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:00:44 PM EDT
[#4]
... Cut your losses and buy a new, reliable truck man!
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:12:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: ... Cut your losses and buy a new, reliable truck man! I second that. At this time especially, trucks are cheap. Keving67 |
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:39:55 PM EDT
[#6]
Damn Imbroglio ya sound like me! If ya didn't have any bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all! Sorry to hear it.
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:48:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Try and mix some baking soda and water together and pour onto you corroded battery cable. You might also want to look into making sure that the wires attached to your starter are nice and tight. Consider going to an auto parts store and having your battery and starter tested. Sometimes, when those two things start to go bad they can give someone problems like what you describe. Have you checked normal maintenance things: like filling your battery cells w/water or making sure they are full? I hope this helps a little.
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:51:52 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted: Of course there had to be insult to injury, now that my piece of shit truck is acting up again even after all of the $1300 in repairs. In the morning it is very hard to start. It has to be cranked about 5 times to turn the engine over. The negative battery clamp bolt has corroded away for the 2nd time even after spraying anti-corrosion crap on it. Already spent $20 in parts to replace the cable. After driving for about 10 minutes and switching off, the car still has a slight hesitation in starting but not like in the morning. I am almost positive that it is the battery but I am not a mechanic. It is supposed to be one of those maintanence free models and the eye on it is still green, but it is nearing 9 years old. What should I do? Put a volt meter on the system where you can read it as you try to start the vehicle. If the volt meter falls below 10 volts, as you crank the starter -- guess what your problem is? Bill |
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Posted: 8/7/2002 10:55:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Oh, come on guys! It's so simple maybe you need a refresher course. It's all ball bearing nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need about 10 quarts of anti-freeze. Preferably Prestone. No... no...make that Quaker State. And wash those windows... they've got filth and muck on them. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:25:35 AM EDT
[#10]
To stop the corrosion on the battery terminals, get those little green and red felt donuts that go on the terminal post.
I don't know how or why those things work... but they DO! |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:51:43 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: Of course there had to be insult to injury, now that my piece of shit truck is acting up again even after all of the $1300 in repairs. In the morning it is very hard to start. It has to be cranked about 5 times to turn the engine over. [u]If the engine is turning over but not starting it is not the Batt, all the Batt. has to have is at least 10.5 volts while turning the engine over for it to start. It may be a connection to the battery from the fuel system or the ignition system.Take the truck to the local auto parts store and ask for a LOAD TEST on the batt. Dont just check the voltage on a static charge you must check it under a load. If it fails most part stores around here will carry the right one for you truck right there. does the engine have a timing belt. If so has it been replaced a jumped timing belt will give you some of the same problems[/u] The negative battery clamp bolt has corroded away for the 2nd time even after spraying anti-corrosion crap on it. Already spent $20 in parts to replace the cable. [u]You need to replace and clean the connections and ALL the acid must be washed away for the repair to last.[/u] After driving for about 10 minutes and switching off, the car still has a slight hesitation in starting but not like in the morning. [u]Get the cold start problem fixed first and this will most likly go away [/u] I am almost positive that it is the battery but I am not a mechanic. It is supposed to be one of those maintanence free models and the eye on it is still green, but it is nearing 9 years old. [u]Green eye means nothing [/u] What should I do? [u]See above .Good luck [/u] |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 9:01:38 AM EDT
[#12]
Also super glue a penny to the battery near each electrode. It does that sacrificial(sp) annode thing so the penny corrodes instead of the post.
If you can open the battery to add water, make sure it isn't tap water. Find distilled or pure water instead. The minerals in tap water cause problems with the plates in the battery. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 9:54:14 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: [u]If the engine is turning over but not starting it is not the Batt, all the Batt. has to have is at least 10.5 volts while turning the engine over for it to start. It may be a connection to the battery from the fuel system or the ignition system.Take the truck to the local auto parts store and ask for a LOAD TEST on the batt. Dont just check the voltage on a static charge you must check it under a load. If it fails most part stores around here will carry the right one for you truck right there. does the engine have a timing belt. If so has it been replaced a jumped timing belt will give you some of the same problems[/u] The engine doesn't turn over but stops completely while the battery gauge drops below 8v. I am going to try to find a battery charger and see if it will start normally after charging. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 10:18:33 AM EDT
[#14]
Take it to Autozone and have the battery tested.They'll do it fo free.Altanator is a free test also.If no Autozones call around one of the chain stores will do it for free.
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Posted: 8/8/2002 12:24:50 PM EDT
[#15]
[b]The engine doesn't turn over but stops completely while the battery gauge drops below 8v.
I am going to try to find a battery charger and see if it will start normally after charging.[/b] Read my earlier post, and another one here, about battery cranking voltage. A battery should not drop below 10.0 - 10.5 volts when cranking. Yours goes to 8 volts. Your battery is bad. replace the thing. A 9 year old battery, that under a load, drops to 8 volts, and your wondering why your vehicle won't start well? DUH! Thats 63 in dog years. Bill |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 12:34:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: A 9 year old battery, that under a load, drops to 8 volts, and your wondering why your vehicle won't start well? DUH! Thats 63 in dog years. Bill Speaking of which, Hows the pooch? Hope all is well. If you want to take a road trip to SC I have a nice SUV for cheap. Olds Bravada. Nice truck. You might have to hitch hike to get here though. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 1:34:25 PM EDT
[#17]
1. replace Batt.
2. make sure the power and ground connections are BOTH GOOD. Do not overlook the power of the ground cable it is as important if not more than the positive cable. Replace the cable again if you have to that could be your whole problem. if you dont replace the cables make sure they are clean,remove the new battery and get the garden hose and spray the crap out of the cables ends and Batt box. Steel brush the cable ends untill the inside part is clean and shiny, scrap it with a knife if ness. Good luck with the truck and the dog |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 2:03:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Make sure that the body has a good ground to the neg. post of the battary. You may have to add another wire from the neg. batt post to the body. This will make sure that the body has good ground. Many componets are grounded to the body. If there is not a proper body ground it can cause the cables to corriode quickly and cause running problems. I am a Nissan Master Tech and they are famous for this problem. Hope this helps.
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Posted: 8/8/2002 2:12:18 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted: Make sure that the body has a good ground to the neg. post of the battary. You may have to add another wire from the neg. batt post to the body. This will make sure that the body has good ground. Many componets are grounded to the body. If there is not a proper body ground it can cause the cables to corriode quickly and cause running problems. I am a Nissan Master Tech and they are famous for this problem. Hope this helps. Damn... beat me to it. Fords have this problem as well. Will also cause your volt gauge to read improperly (or erratically). |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 2:30:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: Make sure that the body has a good ground to the neg. post of the battary. You may have to add another wire from the neg. batt post to the body. This will make sure that the body has good ground. Many componets are grounded to the body. If there is not a proper body ground it can cause the cables to corriode quickly and cause running problems. I am a Nissan Master Tech and they are famous for this problem. Hope this helps. The above is absolutely correct. The vehicles body is isolated from the frame. Run a ground wire from the body to the frame also. I used to turn wrenches my self. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 2:34:56 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted: ... Cut your losses and buy a new, reliable truck man! |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:28:52 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted: Damn Imbroglio ya sound like me! If ya didn't have any bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all! Sorry to hear it. The saying goes like this: If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all. Gloom, Dispair, Deep dark depression, Agony on me. (From HEE HAW) Bill - 1993 Ranger XLT Ext Cab. 50k mi. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:35:40 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted: Oh, come on guys! It's so simple maybe you need a refresher course. It's all ball bearing nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need about 10 quarts of anti-freeze. Preferably Prestone. No... no...make that Quaker State. And wash those windows... they've got filth and muck on them. No, No, No. You should have said adjust the Phlummer Bar, and retorque the Johnson Rod. Bill |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:41:44 PM EDT
[#24]
My '92 Ranger has 127K miles, and despite some amateur side of the road shadetree mechanicin', it's still running. [:D]
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Posted: 8/8/2002 8:59:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: My '92 Ranger has 127K miles, and despite some amateur side of the road shadetree mechanicin', it's still running. [:D] Mine is an '88 F150 with 206K miles. Very reliable, but not much to look at. I'm starting to think about whether to get a new engine and a paint job, or just junk it. |
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Posted: 8/8/2002 9:09:01 PM EDT
[#26]
With all the coins you looted from the Trevi Fountain over the years, you should have a decent ride by now.
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Posted: 8/10/2002 6:37:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Let the truck sit all yesterday and in the morning ran the battery charger for 5 minutes. Truck started right up without a hiccup. There must either be a short somewhere that is slowly draining the battery or one of the cells isn't holding a charge.
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Posted: 8/10/2002 7:38:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Batteries can develop internal shorts or at least electrical leakage and run a cell or two down.
Also try this: Charge the battery. Then disconnect the ground clamp & cable from the battery post at night. See if it still has a full charge in the morning. Then there's the possibility that you have a short somewhere else. Notice as you disconnect the cable, whether there's much of a spark. In the old days, there would be no spark at all if everything was OK, but now there are things like digital clocks, alarm systems, etc. that draw a minor current. If you are seeing significant current with everything shut off, you can try removing fuses one by one until you eliminate the current. That said, I'm amazed that your battery lasted 9 years. I would just go ahead and replace it. Ditto on using distilled water. By the way, I had terrible luck with Exide batteries. Went through three of them in about 5 years with my truck, the last one being a "premium" model with a looong warranty. They all pretty much acted like yours, and would NOT hold a charge. I replaced it with an AC Delco battery which lasted as long as I had the truck. |
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Posted: 8/10/2002 10:53:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted: Let the truck sit all yesterday and in the morning ran the battery charger for 5 minutes. Truck started right up without a hiccup. There must either be a short somewhere that is slowly draining the battery or one of the cells isn't holding a charge. Imbroglio: It's the battery, it's the battery, it's the battery. To replace battery: 1. Jack up the radiator cap. 2. Back up old truck. 3. Drive new truck under radiator cap. 4. tighten old radiator cap. 5. Drive to parts store. 6. Buy new radiator cap. 7. Lift hood and replace radiator cap. 8. Battery replacement done. 9. Feel good now? |
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