Quoted:
100ma is excessive. 20ma is tits. Any time I see an aftermarket alarm and a draw , the alarm gets shitcanned. Your Autobone battery needs testing, simple to do with a proper battery tester, hard to learn much with a DVOM.
The idea with using a test light is kinda old school, it applies a lot less now that vehicles have modules that go to sleep over time every time the key is switched off. Have you measured the draw over time, say 30 minutes, to see if it is still 100ma?
connect your ammeter and let it sit for an hour, then use the test light to see which fuses are hot at the time. Only pull those fuses while watching for the meter to change. Then you have a path to trace the draw.
I haven't let it sit for more than maybe 2 or 3 minutes since i was outside at work holding the probes to the negative cable and the battery terminal. Once I get home I will connect it up and let it sit a while and see if its just the vehicle needing to stabilize before that draw goes down a bit more.
I do have a battery load tester at home. I'll have to dig it up out of the attic or wherever it is.
EDIT:
I had forgotten I had written this on another forum 3 years ago when I was trying to figure out I needed a new battery at that time. Its possible my battery is just the issue.
" Initial current parasitic current drain was at 500mA when first measured by removing the negative cable, then after about 1 minute it dropped down to 90mA, overnight it dropped to 30mA. I guess all the electronics and such inside the truck have to recharge their circuit capacitors when discconected. I think we are all good now. "