I may have to replace our 3 car wide driveway. It is crumbling and I'm guessing in the next 5 years it will have to come out. Can anyone give me an idea on how much it would cost for a concrete company to remove the old slab and pour a new slab? The length is about average at a little shorter then 2 car lengths. Here is a picture. Forget the car is there and I'm almost in the garage taking the picture and you can almost see the far end of the driveway. Kind of gives you an idea of it's size. Thanks for any info!

I do, but only in the overshoes industry.  Sorry, can't tell you about removal.

I tried it but it's too hard to move around in, especially when it starts to set.








Roy

You won't have to pull up the old driveway and re-install a new one...    
 You repair the section that is falling in or breaking up.

It would be more helpful if you went out and actually measured it.

What thickness would help too.

Do you really *have to* replace it?

Is it worth the cost of several new rifles to have a driveway without cracks? Slap a coat of asphalt on it, be done with it.

YMMV.

I work in red brick:







... oh wait...

I used to but it got too heavy so I switched to wearing denim at work.

Hmmm...I would never have thought of 'Nevada' and 'tourism' together.

Ask Jimmy Hoffa, he's been in it for a long time.

Need demensions... aslo demo work is simple, rent a jack hammer do it your self save some money... as other have said, you may not need to tear it all out, just replace the pads that are broken.....

He was actually crushed in a car and shipped to Japan and made into cars....I read this is some gangsters bio a few years ago...

That's a new one to me

My dad owns a Concrete and excavating business.

His estimates for driveways/sidewalks are cost of materials x 2.  

Figure out how much cement you need in cubic yards.  A thickness of 4" is average for a driveway.  Call the local plant and ask how much a cubic yard is.  Multiply cost of materials by two.  Should be pretty close to what people in your area are charging.  It will be a little more because of removal and if you have re-bar or fiber it will be a lot more.

Concrete is $104 a yard delivered here. I'm going to guess $8000 give or take.

It was to me as well....wish I could remember the guys name...a very credible story IMO but who really knows?

This is not hard.  

If it's a rectangle, you just need to measure the length and width.  

I'm going to guess (based on the size of a Volvo sedan), that it's 30 feet long and 24 feet wide.  Standard depth is 4".  With those measurements, you'll need 9 yards.  There are a ton of online calcs that will give you the volume of concrete you need delivered if you have the measurements for the slab.  The contractor will want to come out and estimate the job himself though (if he doesn't, I'd consider that a red flag).  The largest trucks around here haul 10 yards.

The cost of materials is highly dependent on location, because the cost of gravel and sand varies a lot across the country.  I'd guess $1000 for the materials if you're getting 9 yards, but local pricing will vary.  

Everyone I know figures labor by the square foot.  If you're going to have them tear out the old, haul it away, and pour back, you're going to end up spending 4-5k I'd guess.  But again, everyone does free estimates.  

Call around and get some referrals.  There are a lot of people who have no clue what they are doing.  Also, it's a big-time buyer's market right now as most of their work (new construction) has dried up.  

Don't just jackhammer up one section and replace it; it won't match and it will look like crap in a nice neighborhood like yours.  

Don't put ice on it in the winter and the top is much less likely to start to pop off/crumble.  

Is it just crumblin or is it even broken.
Is it a cosmetic or a constructive porblem?

If it is just cosmetic, clean the concrete and make  a coat with epoxy resin on it.
If it is to slippery disperse a little quartz sand in the wet epoxy, right after you coated it.

With the quartz sand you can configurate a special look (colour - women like bling-bling, and grain size).
If there is a little artist in you, you can even create a picture or any kind of motive with different coloured sand.


If it is going to get broken, take the concrete out and lay macadam therefore or plaster it with concrete bricks.

All of that will be cheaper than the concrete version.
The macadam is a little more abrasive, but that doesn´t bother by the way you are forcing it.
It is first of all just more flexible.

The plaster can work a little and won´t brake.
If you have enough from it, you can change it easily.

That´s what I would do.

Go to the yellow pages and call some local concrete contractors. They will come out and give you a bid.

What I charge as a General contractor in California is going to be waaay different than one in Colorado.

Have you checked to see if it is still under warranty from the builder?

I don't see any problems in the pic you posted. Is it a small area somewhere?
Maybe post a pic of the area you are concerned with.

Do you use salt in the winter? That will tear up concrete fast.

Thats a good starting point.
 

OP, I think you have a stalker on your hands.

Maybe he could "work" in concrete.





 

Negative ghost rider.  I just recognize the neighborhood and know that some others here have had similar problems that they had the builder fix under warranty.  You keep your delusions of surprise butsecks to yourself.  For the record I hate working with concrete....

Depends on your region...

Here it costs about 3.5 to 4 dollars a square foot for four inch thick flatwork.

Tear out is extra. IIRC it's about $1.50 per sq/ft

Not sure if that helps.

FWIW, I do not work in construction but do work in the industry.

This has got to be way off.

 






 

This post is too funny.

No kidding? Where are you at? Are you across the street or in the same neighbothood?

Well there's this little place there called Las Vegas.

 

No lace?

If I were in CO, I'd probably rather have an asphalt driveway.

Once concrete cracks (and it always cracks) the freeze thaw cycle will destroy a concrete surface quickly.  However, If you stay on top of the cracks with a good polyurethane sealant (sonneborne SL1 comes to mind for this particular application) you can minimize the damage from freeze thaw.