(continued)
Most low-end gun safes use 3/16” or 1/8” steel for the walls. Consensus is that someone with a sledge hammer or maul could smash their way in in a couple of minutes, or possibly use a sawsall or other powered tool to just open up the safe like a can. ¼” high tensile steel wall thickness is the minimum for a serious gun safe.
Door thickness can range from 3/16” steel up to several inches. The door and frame need to be strong enough to resist pry attacks with either hand tools or a hydraulic spreader. ½” high tensile steel door thickness is the minimum for a serious gun safe.
Lock protection is important. Almost every safe manufacturer uses Sergeant & Greenleaf combination locks. One option is to have a key-locked dial to prevent someone trying to guess the combination or use a listening device. You can change the lock’s combination yourself with a kit the manufacturer will sell you for $20 or so. Key locking dials cost a few bucks more. Electronic keypad locks are an option, but depend on a battery (which can be charged from the outside if drained). A hardened plate and/or a ball bearing plate should protect the lock. If anyone tries to drill through the ball bearings will get caught in and shatter the drill bits.
The lock should drive 3 or more 1-inch bolts into the frame on either side of the door. Upper and lower bolts are more for show. Most low-end gun safes have large numbers of very shiny bolts. Anti drive mechanisms resist interference with the bolt mechanism.
Relocking devices activate when the safe is tampered with. They are connected to spring loaded bolts that lock into the doorframe if the safe is tampered with. Glass plate relockers activate if the safe is pushed over or dropped (although these can break during shipment – most now use alternatives). Thermal relockers activate if the interior temperature increases due to a torch attack. There are other types of relocking mechanisms. A good gun safe will have several.
Miscellaneous features include the ability to bolt the safe down (very important) and aesthetic options such as gloss paint job, pin striping, and the kind of handle on the front. The larger safes can have the interior configured to your wishes when ordered.
A good method of comparing raw protection is to compare safes based on weight per cubic foot. Most low-end combination gun safes that you can purchase locally weigh 800 lbs. in the 30 cubic foot range. A good gun safe will weigh twice that.
My research suggests the following tiers in terms of protection:
Excellent – Brown Safe Manufacturing, Graffunder Safe LLC
Good – American Security
Moderate – Fort Knox, Liberty, Sun Welding, National Security, Heritage Safe, Browning
Poor – Sentry
All the manufacturers have web sites and a couple allow you to order direct. I got much better pricing this way (and no local sales tax!) as compared to buying locally, even though I have to pay the freight. Note that these general ratings are based on web research and conversations with a couple of companies, not personal or expert experience. I have ordered a Graffunder for delivery at the end of January, so please solicit the board for specific knowledge others might have. I have received it since then and am very happy with it, although I wish it had more than one anchor hole in the bottom. Would like 2 anchors, plus a hole for a goldenrod cord.