Anyone know how to removed the rear inside door pane on a 2006 Ford Explorer?  My rear driver side window stopped working, so I need to take a look to see what's up.  Can't figure out how to get the door panel off.  I've removed the three screws I can see / find, and it doesn't want to budge.

 

Did you find the screws by the door handle? You have to pop off a plate. When you get all the screws out, you have to lift up then out, because it has hooks instead of push in clips.

Yes, those two and one black unobstructed screw at the very bottom of the panel.  With those three out, I just lift the whole panel up and off?



 

Turn the key on and rock the switch on the door for that window back and forth 99% of the time it will start working again. Explorers do that all the time. If it does not work let me know and I will get the instructions on how to remove the panel for you.

That's how it is done on my Expedition.  Remove the screws, grab the bottom of the panel and lift straight up.



 

That should be it, you might need to remove the door lock knob, it just twists off.

Get it up to highway speed.  When a tire blows and it rolls over, the rear panel comes off.














Sorry.

there are these things called Jesus clips....

I never worked on Explorers, but many of the Fords I have owned had window switch issues.  Taking the switch apart & cleaning (or replacing) always took care of the problem.    I never needed to remove panels, etc... I would look a the switch first.  YRMV

Still doesn't want to move up and off.  Am I missing screws under the latch assembly area?  I only got the cover off/screws removed from the lower pull handle, but can't get the cover off of the latch area.  That seems to be where it's hung up, but the plastic cover doesn't seem to pop off to reveal any screws.



Gotta run to Annapolis for the Navy game, I'll give it another shot tomorrow AM.



Thanks guys.

How do I post a PDF file? I have it saved to my computer.

You have to pop off the plastic piece that has the window switch, a screw (maybe a small bolt 5.5 mm?)  


Go Army

Yeah, that was it, just got that cover popped of whike waiting for my friends in the parking lot.





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O.K., so I got the panel off and somehow got the window working again without replacing anything, but I have some questions.





I had power at the motor, so I figured the motor was shot.  I did a quick ohm reading over the leads to the motor, and got continuity.  So, I figured the motor was shot.  When I took the motor out of the door, and hooked it back up to power just for kicks, and it worked!  So, I manually made sure the window moved up and down freely, put it all back together, and now it works no problem.





I understand that there could have been something that I freed up to make it work again, but why am I getting continuity across the leads to the motor?  I expected to get like 5 ohms or something across the motor.  What am I missing?





Also, in the 15 minutes or so that I was working on this with my truck ignition on but not running (radio on for some entertainment), my voltage went from 13 V to around 11.5, so I started my truck when I noticed it and it almost didn't start.  Battery is OEM and 5 years old, so I'm guessing I need a new battery soon, especially with winter coming up.  Any recommendations?





JDC



ETA:  O.K., I guess I'm having a brain fart, but I'm guessing I should get continuity over a motor if the windings are good, and the resistance comes from the load of the actual spinning motor when it has the proper voltage.