they are built way deep into the saw, How far should I go? also, anyone maybe might have some instructions on how to get in past the covers etc to get in that far?



cant find any online manuals or instructions for how to get to the condenser/ points :/



checked spark plug, checked wire as much as i can see. The saw got wet one year from heavy rain, and 10-1 the points are corroded/ the magnets are rusty...

I never been into a Sthil but the saw I did get that far into was a bear. Look online for an exploded view and maybe you will find a fastner you can't see now. Since it is a decent saw I would take it to the shop before I wrecked it myself. YMMV. SS

i paid 150 bucks for the entire saw, i took it to a stihl dealer and they want 200 dollars to replace 40 dollars in parts(possibly only 20 dollars in points).







they did mention it was "all labor".....





im going to pull the flywheel, with my own home made flywheel puller in about half an hour after i weld it up.



hopefully that allows me to reach what i need to reach.





 

ok i got down to the piece... hell i think its the only piece that handles anything, this must have electronic ignition i guess?
its got 3 pickups but its just a solid hunk of plastic with the 3 pickups in it... i thought the TS-350 was supposed to have points system....
all the online parts places arent even showing anything remotely like this for an ignition assembly...





 

ok so apparently the ts-350 also had an electronic ignition system.
The magnet on the flywheel was completely covered in dust, so i cleaned out the 1/4 inch of dust covering the flywheel inside/magnet, and cleaned up that plastic ignition module.
I put it all back together, and low and behold im getting some electricity.
im getting 12 volts to the spark plug, but apparently im supposed to be getting 14 or something?
so..... I assume my ignition module is shot, and the damn thing is 100+ dollars USED.
Apparently they dont make it anymore ,
its an 056 chainsaw ignition module, also used on the ts350 cutting saw.





heres the stihl p/n if anyone has access to like a stihl parts book...






Stihl p/n 1108 400 0810



(there is a couple on ebay, most over 50$ with what seems like no guarantee that its actually a good one)



I guess im gonna be buying a new saw if i cant get this part




 

How are you reading 12volts? You are not going to read the correct voltage at the plug with a typical voltmeter. Does it spark across a new plug? Is the air gap set correctly at the pickup and is it pretty much rust free and not touching the magnet when it rotates?

1) using a cheap voltmeter that reads up to 14 volts, i compared this ts-350's volts with a shitty old blower I have and the blower was completely lighting up the 14 volt light on the voltmeter.



then checked the ts-350 and it was only giving me a weak 12 it seems...
2) I tried a new plug (not made for that saw) and it doesnt show spark. but voltmeter is giving me 12 volts if i check end of spark plug to ground, or from the wire to ground.






 The old plug isnt sparking either....
3) I can only assume the airgap is set correctly, their are 3 pickups.  I dont know how to check this on an electronic ignition module...
There is NO rust at all on pickups/ magnet area. I tore it all down and cleaned off the piled up dust and shit so it should have the cleanest spark its had in years.
This is what the module looks like 2 screws that can allow it to turn a 1/4 inch each way, i used paint to mark where it was originally, before I unscrewed it, If you know of this airgap for this maybe thats the issue...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stihl-056-SEM-Type-GA-Ignition-Module_W0QQitemZ120482359559QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0d4ee907
ETA- I checked if this was somehow related to the killswitch and the killswitch i think is broke anyways, since i was still getting voltage with it in the off position. I disconnected the kill switch and same amount of voltage as with it connected up, I was really hoping the killswitch was grounding it for simple quick fix

 

The ignition coil should be producing WAY more than 12 volts.  Should be more like 10000 plus!!  You won't be measuring it though.  Just take a spark plug, connect it to the plug wire, hold the spark plug to the engine block, and then crank.  You should have a nice clear spark.  If not, you have a problem.  

How old is this saw?  Chainsaws haven't had points in MANY years.

Probably have a bad coil.

yea wont produce spark, tried that multiple times on multiple grounding surfaces already wouldnt work with new spark plug and old, no spark.





Right now im not sure, I just called 4 dealers in my area all of them say they dont have any parts laying around, and cant get the coil except on the internet just like I would.



If im looking at 100 dollars for a "good one" Im not sure if I should just drop another 300 and get a TS400 cutting saw, or a TS460.



From what I understand those saws still have parts I can buy






 

Try disconnecting the shut off.  The way these saws shut off is they ground the coil through the shut off wire and then that keeps the plug from firing.  Thus, the engine stops.  Try disconnecting the wire that runs from the coil.  Then try to crank it.  If it sparks properly, then you probably have a fault in the wire or the switch.  If still no spark, then you have a bad coil.

For the right air gap, use a piece of cardboard from a small box (like the thickness of cardboard that Briggs and Stratton parts come in or the box that a spark plug comes in).  Loosen the coil, rotate the flywheel until the magnets are under the coil, and put the cardboard between them.  Let the magnetism draw the coil to it and tighten the bolts.  Then, remove the cardboard and you are done.  

I suspect that the problem is either in the shut off switch or the coil itself.  There probably is a place out there that has a used coil on a junked saw but as you suspect, you might be better off just buying a new saw.

Good luck.

Edit because I took a look at your link.  There really is no actual air gap setting for that coil since it's under the flywheel.  If it's not rubbing on the flywheel, it's good.  And, that is an electronic ignition system.

OK GUYS.



ha, ha, ha1!!@!@!



I just got the deal of the century.



I just called up about 10 rental places in my area, and one of them said they had a bunch of saws laying around.



I went down there, and they had another ts-350 laying there, it was missing a air filter and a couple bolts but they didnt know if it ran.



I offered them 20 bucks, they said 25, I said DEAL! I could make 25 bucks selling it on ebay easily if not 4x that amount with it non running.



Took it home, poured some gas into the carb, pulled the cord 5x and it started up and ran real good.



so i now have a running TS 350 that im going to take the good parts off my "non running parts saw".



I lucked out big time.

Hell of a deal if it will cut for ya.

im about to use it on a job this coming week weather permitting, hope it does





Its gonna pay for itself in 1 use