User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 4/26/2015 8:35:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Grading is going to be the hard part ... just make sure your slope is all down, put a layer of gravel under the pipe to take up shifting soil, and use PVC as a riser at the house end. They make downspout-to-PVC adapters.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/26/2015 9:52:46 PM EDT
[#2]
FPNI
Enjoy the digging, and make sure the slope is always going down. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/26/2015 10:50:06 PM EDT
[#3]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 5:59:09 AM EDT
[#4]
Start at the high end and work to the discharge end, making sure that you keep a continuous down slope, doesn't need to be a consistent slope, but must be continuous.
After getting your BUD number from 811 rent one of these. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 7:11:34 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Start at the high end and work to the discharge end, making sure that you keep a continuous down slope, doesn't need to be a consistent slope, but must be continuous. After getting your BUD number from 811 rent one of these. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQvfH4vxTkc35MjMwqmgn0OdkRvNxCKplE8luaviBi5Eo1o65Hv Talk about over kill it's a gutter drain only 30 or 40 feet long and most likely no bigger than 4" that can be dug by hand. Op I suggest you use SCH 40 PVC it wont collapse like the thin wall PVC or black corrugated pipe does |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 8:39:24 AM EDT
[#6]
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow.
I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 9:25:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Talk about over kill it's a gutter drain only 30 or 40 feet long and most likely no bigger than 4" that can be dug by hand. Op I suggest you use SCH 40 PVC it wont collapse like the thin wall PVC or black corrugated pipe does Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Start at the high end and work to the discharge end, making sure that you keep a continuous down slope, doesn't need to be a consistent slope, but must be continuous. After getting your BUD number from 811 rent one of these. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQvfH4vxTkc35MjMwqmgn0OdkRvNxCKplE8luaviBi5Eo1o65Hv Talk about over kill it's a gutter drain only 30 or 40 feet long and most likely no bigger than 4" that can be dug by hand. Op I suggest you use SCH 40 PVC it wont collapse like the thin wall PVC or black corrugated pipe does Lol, im not saying arfcom over-exaggerates, but you need this if you want to get this 20-40 feet drain accomplished. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 9:50:54 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FPNI http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/80/808cbdf4-0321-4d5d-99a8-f8adbcd94496_145.jpg http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/59/59e06f61-372f-425d-97a2-14df93e4971d_145.jpg http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/7e/7e0d23fc-bae9-4ad7-a735-883e2ea43554_145.jpg Enjoy the digging, and make sure the slope is always going down. This. You could also use perforated black pipe if you don't mind allowing the water to soak into the ground along the drain path. You can also consider a dry well at the end of the run instead of a pop-up drain. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 12:00:59 PM EDT
[#9]
Lay out your run and start trenching. Over excavate the bottom of the trench.
Drive stakes at both ends and set a string line 1" above your invert. Two percent fall is good. Base up to 1" below your string line. You can use loose, friable soil, sand, or gravel. Install the drain pipe. Use PVC SDR 35 or Sch 40 PVC and glue everything together. Center load the drain with your back fill first. Compact the sides and be careful not to raise the pipe. Back fill the top of the pipe and compact. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 8:02:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow. I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. Actually its the other way around use PVC unless you have extra time and money to redo the job because the corrugated pipe has collapsed and no longer carries water. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 8:26:06 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually its the other way around use PVC unless you have extra time and money to redo the job because the corrugated pipe has collapsed and no longer carries water. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow. I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. Actually its the other way around use PVC unless you have extra time and money to redo the job because the corrugated pipe has collapsed and no longer carries water. No kidding. Corrugated HDPE ( single wall ) has it's place, at the base of a foundation wall encapsulated in gravel or at a location that doesn't receive any traffic. We've seen HDPE gutter drains collapse from something as heavy as a zero turn mower when the pipe is near the surface. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/27/2015 9:30:32 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No kidding. Corrugated HDPE ( single wall ) has it's place, at the base of a foundation wall encapsulated in gravel or at a location that doesn't receive any traffic. We've seen HDPE gutter drains collapse from something as heavy as a zero turn mower when the pipe is near the surface. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow. I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. Actually its the other way around use PVC unless you have extra time and money to redo the job because the corrugated pipe has collapsed and no longer carries water. No kidding. Corrugated HDPE ( single wall ) has it's place, at the base of a foundation wall encapsulated in gravel or at a location that doesn't receive any traffic. We've seen HDPE gutter drains collapse from something as heavy as a zero turn mower when the pipe is near the surface. Lol, it will survive 8' down, but not 1'. Anyway, if it is so shallow that you are worried about crushing the pipe then do some sort of landscaping to just let it drain on the surface. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2015 3:24:50 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lol, it will survive 8' down, but not 1'. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow. I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. Actually its the other way around use PVC unless you have extra time and money to redo the job because the corrugated pipe has collapsed and no longer carries water. No kidding. Corrugated HDPE ( single wall ) has it's place, at the base of a foundation wall encapsulated in gravel or at a location that doesn't receive any traffic. We've seen HDPE gutter drains collapse from something as heavy as a zero turn mower when the pipe is near the surface. Lol, it will survive 8' down, but not 1'. Yes, that's why I said it. 
You took that personal and you shouldn't have because the comment was directed at the product but you didn't know that... Maybe HDPE has kicked me in the butt one too many times as a GC over the years. Clients like it because it's cheap but I can tell you that there is no advantage to me when I have to go back and repair or replace a section.. Also worth mentioning, sod, shrub or tree roots often penetrate the joints. When I can I'll post a pick of some HDPE dual wall, corrugated exterior with a smooth wall at the interior. It collapsed with about nine inches of soil cover because someone drove a small pickup over it to deliver some shrubs. It cost us about 3K for the repair plus lost profit that could have been made elsewhere. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2015 4:45:13 PM EDT
[#14]
I agree and disagree.
Drain time is super easy to install and doesn't require a straight elevation drop, just throw it in a hole to some extent. Sure PVC would be nice, but it is a pain in the ass if you are trying to go just a certain depth and follow the surface grade. But like I said earlier, if he is going so close to the surface he is worried then I would be looking at a gravel bed or some other landscaping feature to handle it. Driving a truck over something wasn't in the OP's original functional spec. And if it was I wouldn't use anything shallow enough to feel the effect of the truck. Therefore drain time would again be a good choice. Either way, whatever. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2015 11:12:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dig trench, put drain tile in trench, on outlet area put so e gravel or large rocks to break up the flow. I wouldn't use pvc unless you have extra time to waste. in areas where it freezes, like the OP's MO, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Missouri#Climate OP should use PVC and bury it far enough down to avoid frost heaving. ar-jedi 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2015 11:35:15 PM EDT
[#16]
Nice house.
I'm tapping out of this argument. The pictures you show would not meet any frost depth even in New Mexico and if it does freeze it is going to freeze in the area around the transition from the downspout to the pvc. Little to nothing of consequence will freeze in the actual drain. But whatever. I say use sch. 80 iron. You know, cause you never know...... |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/28/2015 11:46:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice house. I'm tapping out of this argument. The pictures you show would not meet any frost depth even in New Mexico and if it does freeze it is going to freeze in the area around the transition from the downspout to the pvc. Little to nothing of consequence will freeze in the actual drain. But whatever. I say use sch. 80 iron. You know, cause you never know...... freezing the water in the drain and frost heaving the pipe are two different things. plus schedule 20 sewer and drain pvc is dirt cheap. bell end means you just hammer them together with a rubber mallet. http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sewer-and-Drain-Pipe-1610/202280933?N=5yc1vZbv13 ar-jedi |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2015 3:23:11 AM EDT
[#18]
Just curious, I can't tell from the pics but did you use perforated pipe? If not why wrap it in fabric?
J- |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/29/2015 8:18:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just curious, I can't tell from the pics but did you use perforated pipe? If not why wrap it in fabric? J- good observation. there are actually TWO pipes in that trench. down at the bottom is a 3" perf'd tile drain sitting in stone and wrapped in the fabric. this is to catch the water that is coming down the sloped front yard towards the house. then there is the solid drain pipe which is carrying the water from the three downspouts. somewhere near the corner of the house, these two are coupled and a solid length carries the water off onto the edge of the creek. it turns out that it is easier -- much easier -- to wrap both pipes with the fabric versus trying to wrap just the drain tile. ETA looking now at my pics you can see where i joined the two at the 22.5degree bend area. and looking at the pics i probably got more fabric wrap than i needed because the high school kid i left in charge of the shovel when i went off to work one day didn't really know what he was doing...
ar-jedi |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/30/2015 11:24:03 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
good observation. there are actually TWO pipes in that trench. down at the bottom is a 3" perf'd tile drain sitting in stone and wrapped in the fabric. this is to catch the water that is coming down the sloped front yard towards the house. then there is the solid drain pipe which is carrying the water from the three downspouts. somewhere near the corner of the house, these two are coupled and a solid length carries the water off onto the edge of the creek. it turns out that it is easier -- much easier -- to wrap both pipes with the fabric versus trying to wrap just the drain tile. ETA looking now at my pics you can see where i joined the two at the 22.5degree bend area. and looking at the pics i probably got more fabric wrap than i needed because the high school kid i left in charge of the shovel when i went off to work one day didn't really know what he was doing...
ar-jedi Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just curious, I can't tell from the pics but did you use perforated pipe? If not why wrap it in fabric? J- good observation. there are actually TWO pipes in that trench. down at the bottom is a 3" perf'd tile drain sitting in stone and wrapped in the fabric. this is to catch the water that is coming down the sloped front yard towards the house. then there is the solid drain pipe which is carrying the water from the three downspouts. somewhere near the corner of the house, these two are coupled and a solid length carries the water off onto the edge of the creek. it turns out that it is easier -- much easier -- to wrap both pipes with the fabric versus trying to wrap just the drain tile. ETA looking now at my pics you can see where i joined the two at the 22.5degree bend area. and looking at the pics i probably got more fabric wrap than i needed because the high school kid i left in charge of the shovel when i went off to work one day didn't really know what he was doing...
ar-jedi gotcha, good looking work too. J- |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
